WS6 GreeN

I have a UMI tq arm relocation bracket and a UMI adjustable tq arm on my 2002 TA. Well, it seems with the urethane bushing instead of the rubber I can feel every little tiny thing going on and there's clunking noises when I'm taking off. Hitting a bump, I can feel it in my freakin' teeth. I don't want to break my tailshaft but I certainly don't want to keep driving the car like it is. There's gotta be a better way! I've thought about trying to use my rubber clamshell from the stock mount. Other than that, I have to do something. Anyone have any suggestions? I've got a 9", 3.5" alum driveshaft and T56.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a rubber tranny mount? Or poly? A rubber mount at the trans may help if you have a poly there. Otherwise, a poly torque arm mount, whether with our arm, a competitors arm, or even in the stock location is quite industry standard.

Ramey

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

We've been talking more about this here at the shop.

The 9" the housing is very large. You should be able to use the inner torque arm holes but even with that the torque arm/rear end combo there it might still contact the tunnel, esp if the car is lowered. Clearancing the tunnel and an adj PHB might be necessary.

Also make sure the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear end bracket are tight. These bolts holding the rod eyes are loose from the factory so you can easily adjust pinion angle. Although the torque arm bushing is poly we use a softer durometer poly for this bushing, it is much softer than a control arm bushing.

So, please make sure you don't have mechanical interference somewhere else.

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

i know, im tired of my umi adj ta clunkin also and the pinion angle is correct i have the tunnel brace mount and i am sick of it to be honest!!

CS2 Sasuke XD

iTrader: (2)

I got mine aligned by a ls1 veteran and it still clucks when put into drive, reverse. breaking, accelerating. as annoying as it is I still love the added performance. but having a lowered car and using the Bracket for aftermarket exhaust. I have to get a new bracket and refabed exhaust so I can stop bottoming out everywhere.

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking at getting a torque arm for my Z. I have read about clunking and all the other good stuff. So, out of all the torque arms out there, every brand, what is the one which is the best of the best?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

We consider UMI to be the performance and quality leader (as I'm sure other manufacturers do concerning their own products) featuring Made In USA ultra premium, durable, fast, quality components.

Some drivers struggle with clunking no matter what and others have no troubles, with UMI or with other brands.

I invite you to investigate UMI further and we'd be glad to help you choose.

later

ramey

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Are you drag racing this car?

Ronerik

iTrader: (2)

Email sent.

ikswelborwnayrb

I have the same kit on a S60 ...clearance is real tight...hit tunnel and clunks...consistant grease on the tunnel mount side helped clunking but didn't eliminate it.(helped the brackets move smoother) I have driven other torque arm vehicles that also clunk. It's a defect of the setup i guess but way better then hitting the tail of my tranny against the tunnel or worse breaking the tranny casing. To talk about the ride being bad i guess it wasn't all that great to start with was it? I mean there meant to handle better then your average mini van so i guess im willing to give up some cushion in the bumps....it's a compromise situation. Overall i suppose it's all about what your looking for. Just my 2 cents.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I had a tunnel mount Spohn TA on my car when it was auto and it was a little noisy, but not unbearable. When I swapped to the T56 I think I might have put 30 miles on the car and then ordered a full length adjustable UMI TA. No more noise. But I didn't have a relocation kit.

I now have a full length MWC arm and a Fab9, but have not driven the car yet so I can't tell you how I like this setup

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My arm and relo bracket are like a microphone for the rear end. It is pretty annoying. I can literally hear ever single thing that's happening inside the rear end. I've learned to live with it. Stock torque arms won't handle much abuse so I chalk it up as the cost of doing business. That doesn't make it very fun though...

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

On the tunnel mounted torque arms make sure the bolts that attach the two pivot brackets are tight and the bushings are properly greased. The bolts use a conical lock nut which makes them appear tighter than they actually are... the nut takes a lot of force to get it tight and apply pressure to the bushing. Clunking is usually more noticeable on auto cars when shifting from park to drive or reverse and hard shifts on both manual and auto will usually cause a clunk, this is normal. Street driving and easy driving usually doesn't offer too much additional noise, some road noise is expected. Both our shop cars currently run the tunnel mounted set ups and can't get any clunking... unless we bang some gears.

WS6 GreeN

Thanks for all the replies. Mine also clunks from a stop just taking off smoothly. Also does it in reverse. Could this be it hitting the tunnel? There's several inches of clearance between the tunnel and the tq arm (it's already clearanced itself a little) but I didnt think it would move that much under normal driving. When it was mounted to the trans I didn't have a clunk or much noise at al for that matter. It's just when it's connected to the reloc bracket with the poly bushing. I would love to try a rubber bushing to see if it made a difference. I'm using the stock rubber bushing for the transmission.

Someone asked if I raced the car. Yes I do. With 690 rwhp and twin turbos it'd be hard not to race it. It's certainly more of a street car though.

Oh, and I do have an adj phb as well as tubular LCAs.

Sy99T/A

iTrader: (34)

I have run a UMI relocation torque arm for 20k and never heard a clunk from mine

soulless

iTrader: (3)

I had a clunk issue with my arm and relo kit. Turned out the bolts for the arm and rear bracket weren't quite tight enough. I'm not a small guy but it took an impact to resolve the issue, hand tools just wouldn't cut it. GL

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

So if there is a known clunking issue, how come it's not being worked on to resolve issue?

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

mines a clunker

CamaroZ28_LS1

iTrader: (5)

my UMI short torque arm only clunks under light throttle when it load and unloads the drive train on throttle tip in... annoying but I drag race the car and only drive it on the weekends. really don't care much other then that it does the job. Also run a moser 9" as well.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

The factory torque arm system is packaged neatly in a small design envelope out back and rubber mounted up front on a trans tailshaft housing which is also mounted in rubber. The whole system floats around in a nicely damped environment. No clunks.

In a tunnel mount situation we're taking that unit and replacing it with a much stronger piece, much larger bracket on the diff housing, mounting it directly to a brace attached to the floor pan with a large open area (instead of damping it with rubber), replacing rubber with poly on the torque arm nose and putting a lot of LS power through it. Combine that with factory tolerances on the car and occasionally there may be a clunk somewhere. With proper assembly, maintenance and the occasional clearancing we can usually get most customers cars pretty quiet.

ramey