MrBluGruv

I will be replacing my factory deCarbon shocks with Bilstein HD shocks on all 4 corners the weekend after this coming weekend, and I wanted to try to check beforehand:

Is there an easy way to see if I need to swap in new upper strut mounts up front before I start tearing things down to do the swap? I've read that they are extremely susceptible to rust issues, and I don't want problems if I can avoid them.

Fairly inexperienced here, I'm sure I'm completely clueless, but I would like to try to make this process as easy as possible while minimizing my cash outlay as much as possible also.


Thanks in advance.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

You wont know until you take them off and you can asses the damage on the nut. On mine the nut on the shock was rusted together so had to use a cut off wheel to cut them off. If anything buy the strut mounts and have them ready in case you need them. If you dont need them just return them and problem solved.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

yup, we just put konis on a car an he had to get new strut mounts. Better to have em then need em an not be there. most of the time there rusted like the above poster mentioned

TruBloodTransAm

iTrader: (24)

If you buy new mounts, get the Moog ones, they are the closest to OEM.

MrBluGruv

Good grief are OEM expensive!


The moog looks like a solid choice as they seem readily available and fairly cheap (relatively speaking).

Can anyone else chime in in favor of positive experiences with moog?

echos67

iTrader: (3)

I bought the moog mounts, and isolators from RA fairly cheap and have them on hand for when I can do mine (recent neck surgery). The dealer wanted somewhere around $209 each if i remember correctly lol.

MrBluGruv

So would the isolators be the only other thing I should need beyond the moog mounts?

Not trying to sound helpless here (although I probably do), but do you have part numbers for those isolators (or any other parts I might need beyond those and the mounts)?

NicB

iTrader: (4)

Upper strut mount lh- k6516
Upper strut mount rh- k6517
Strut isolators x 2- k6573

All moog part numbers

MrBluGruv

You're a boss, thanks.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Moog is an excellent choice, as well as the OEM parts. I believer there was a member on here last week who had the Monroe mounts and they seemed to fail very quickly.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering about the Monroes since they are about half the price...

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

I have monroes and they are doing fine. ya know that they are made of steel right.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

There's a reason.

Stick with the Moogs.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Quite a few people have ripped through the hole at the top of the Monroe strut mounts. You could try them but they have a higher probability of breaking. Some people will get away with using them, other's won't. The thing you pay for with OEM mounts is lower risk of breaking.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I have no personal experience with the Monroe parts, but everything I have read has allowed me to question their quality. Stick with Moog or OEM. They'll work out just fine for another 10-15 years.
- Kevin

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

From what i read is that we have a lot of members that have NO knowledge in suspension. They take things apart and either do not re-assemble them correctly and i have even read where they forgot to put parts back in causing parts to fail. Then add on top of that all the non standard things being done ie: lowering springs, actualy cutting springs and then expecting the car to act properly is a Big part of the issue here. I know some of you guy's here think the guy's at GM are not smart but the car was designed and built to meet certain standards and then we go in and start to redesign them and have issues and then want to say brand so and so is crap. I read a lot and write a little. I see people asking questions and just want to tell them to not touch the car because some of the questions are so rediculous. The Strut Mount is made of STEEL and it will take a lot to bust thru it, so I guess the question is what are YOU doing to break the parts. Whenever I BEAT on my car and something breaks....I Broke It not the cheap parts.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Apparently you don't know how those mounts are actually made. They are not steel. They are mostly rubber with steel inserts molded into them. There is a steel sleeve where the shock's shaft goes through, but the surrounding material is rubber. It has to be so there is some give and flex as the suspension moves. Granted there isn't a lot but there needs to be some otherwise you'll break the shock. Then there is another embedded steel plate for the mounting studs and bolt holes on the very top. So yes, they CAN and DO rip out, if you don't use the isolator plate.

As for the rest of your rant I'm not sure what that has to do with anything here. No one in this thread is talking about modifying the factory stuff. Just a standard parts replacement. And how is anyone supposed to learn anything without asking questions? When I did the 4 shocks on my old car I had never taken apart suspension in my life. I did it by asking questions, reading, doing, and taking my time. That's also when I learned which brands of mounts NOT to get, by the way. Nothing like putting it all together just to find it won't line up because the mount is screwball.

bill12690

iTrader: (4)

I guess I'm the only one that was able to re-use the factory ones, lol

MrBluGruv

I finally got all the parts in at the end of last week, and the plan is to put it all in this coming Saturday.

I'll try to remember to post up how the car is after the swap.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I was also able to keep my originals luckily