02'Andy

iTrader: (3)

I've got a couple of suspension questions this morning.

A quick background: My car is a bolt-on z28 with a 4L60E and stock 3.23 gear 10-bolt rearend. The car is currently getting a 4000 stall from circle d installed, and I plan on upgrading the heads, cam, and intake early next year. I WILL be upgrading the transmission and getting a 12-bolt rear, but I'd like to do those after I do the internals. The car has/will see the drag strip maybe 3-4 times a year, and it isn't my daily driver.

So for the time being, I'd like to upgrade some of the rear suspension to help preserve my 10-bolt until I'm ready to replace it. I know from the stickies and searches that having an a4 car will be easier on the 10-bolt to start, and the best things to upgrade are the rear LCAs (with relocation brackets), panhard bar, and torque arm.

So far my shopping list consists of LCAs, relocation brackets, panhard bar, and subframe connectors (just to tighten up the car). The parts are all going to be bolt-in for now, and will be welded up after I swap rears. So here's my questions:

1) Is a torque arm swap overkill prior to h/c/i and a rear swap?

2) Are there a particular set of bolt-in relocation brackets that I can use on the stock 10-bolt that will also work with aftermarket rears? (I know UMI has bolt in brackets, but they won't work with aftermarket rears, and spohn has weld-in brackets that work with aftermarket and stock rears).

3) Any particular LCAs and Panhard I should be looking at? (Currently looking at a UMI on-car adjustable package from ws6store).

4) Any particular place I can get the bolt-in hardware for weld-in subframe connectors? (ws6store has the weld in SFCs, or bolt-in SFCs, but I don't see an option to order just the bolt-in hardware for the weld-in SFCs).


I haven't had much of a problem with wheel hop yet at the track on my NT05Rs, but I have a feeling my new stall might create some, so I'm trying to prevent that until I swap rears.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

besides driving like a grandma......i dont know of any other way to make the stock 10 bolt last.....anyone else?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Adding parts that should keep wheel hop and brake hop to a minimum should make the 10 bolt last a bit longer.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

<<< drives like grandma........cant afford a 12 bolt yet

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Knock on wood, my 10 bolt has lasted on my car for 8-9 years of doing autox and spectator drags on my nitto 555r's with 400 rwhp. Surface stinks though so traction isn't the best. Plus im not on a real drag radial. My circumstances are probably different.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

Your car's an automatic, which is good news for your rear end. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just stay out of wheel hop.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

i went with a TA girdle to keep mine alive. the ability to hold more gear oil and the main cap support really helps keep temps down and deflection to a minimum, which is what kills these rear ends.

Nathan C

I've also read good things about the TA girdle. They only run about $160.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Fresh bearings is the best way to keep your ten bolt alive. Running a non-sticky tire and avoiding wheel hop help also.