Home made LCAs?
#1
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Home made LCAs?
What do you think about removing the stock LCA to wher you just have to clyinders with bushings. Then taking some round stock and using the correct cut to conform to the stock bushings. Would this be a good idea? I dont figure it would cost but 10bux and my dad is a certified welder so that is not a problem.
#2
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I don't know if the bushing shells would be strong enough. When the bushing is mounted in the LCA, it is surrounded, 360 degrees by metal to share the load. I suspect that the design you are speaking of would fail eventually. Also, BMR has built poly/poly PHB's in the past, using a reinforced poly bushing in a similar design and I've seen several of these fail. The PHB is not as heavily loaded as the LCA's. If anything, have your dad weld a plate across the bottom of the factory LCAs to reinforce them and call it a day.
My thoughts.
My thoughts.
#3
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Originally Posted by trackbird
If anything, have your dad weld a plate across the bottom of the factory LCAs to reinforce them and call it a day.
--VIP1
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Even if you did do this you'd first have to find a way to hold the rearend from moving once you unbolt the LCA's. If the rear moves even .050 and you don't know it and weld up the new LCA's, your rear alignment would be out.
I just installed Spohn PHR and LCA's last weekend and the rearend moved about a 1/2" once the LCA was unbolted.
I just installed Spohn PHR and LCA's last weekend and the rearend moved about a 1/2" once the LCA was unbolted.
#6
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Originally Posted by Brett H
Even if you did do this you'd first have to find a way to hold the rearend from moving once you unbolt the LCA's. If the rear moves even .050 and you don't know it and weld up the new LCA's, your rear alignment would be out.
I just installed Spohn PHR and LCA's last weekend and the rearend moved about a 1/2" once the LCA was unbolted.
I just installed Spohn PHR and LCA's last weekend and the rearend moved about a 1/2" once the LCA was unbolted.
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#10
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Originally Posted by Cal
Keep in mind the LCA's have to have some way to twist. The stock ones are flexible for a reason. If you make new ones very siff, they will need Heim joints or rod ends to still function.
http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/Soft...440+1081338093
If they dont need heim joints, why would boxed stockers need them?
The stock ones are flexible because they are cheap stamped steel units with rubber bushings.
--VIP1
#11
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completely not true. the hotchkis ones are for straight line performance only. i had a set of poly poly ones on my car and took them off because the added spring force to the rear was unbearable and quite honestly unsafe when getting on an interstate where there is a big turn to get on. I had rod/poly and those were awesome but i could not stand the noise. I am now back to stock for noise only, however, the ride was much better with the rod end. I am currently trying to make a rubber/rod lca for the best of all worlds.
#12
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Originally Posted by VIP1
Hotchkis makes a boxed set with poly bushings.
http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/Soft...440+1081338093
If they dont need heim joints, why would boxed stockers need them?
The stock ones are flexible because they are cheap stamped steel units with rubber bushings.
--VIP1
http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/Soft...440+1081338093
If they dont need heim joints, why would boxed stockers need them?
The stock ones are flexible because they are cheap stamped steel units with rubber bushings.
--VIP1
My thoughts.
#13
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A lot of car TV shows are in trouble then for harping these products, saying that they improve handling (not in just a straight line).
So...
Heim joints are better for all-round handling, like in autocrossing?
What do you run?
Its probably out of the question for me though, since I live in a pot-hole/rippled-pavement infested area.
--VIP1
So...
Heim joints are better for all-round handling, like in autocrossing?
What do you run?
Its probably out of the question for me though, since I live in a pot-hole/rippled-pavement infested area.
--VIP1
#14
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Heim joints are better all around for drag and autoX and if you get quality ends with your parts then you will be fine...Teflon lined ends are great and what we use!!!!
Here's the link: http://linkage.tuthill.com/productca...d=12&L3_id=237
Here's the link: http://linkage.tuthill.com/productca...d=12&L3_id=237
#15
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Originally Posted by VIP1
A lot of car TV shows are in trouble then for harping these products, saying that they improve handling (not in just a straight line).
So...
Heim joints are better for all-round handling, like in autocrossing?
What do you run?
Its probably out of the question for me though, since I live in a pot-hole/rippled-pavement infested area.
--VIP1
So...
Heim joints are better for all-round handling, like in autocrossing?
What do you run?
Its probably out of the question for me though, since I live in a pot-hole/rippled-pavement infested area.
--VIP1
Apparently the shows believe the advertising.
Heim joints are really the way to go for performance. Good rod ends will be nearly as quiet as stock until they wear from use. I seem to get about 6 months to a year from a set of ends before the noise makes me change them. However, I autocross on race tires and my car sees salt and snow (drive it all year) so I am a "worst case" for rod end wear.
#16
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Originally Posted by trackbird
my car sees salt and snow (drive it all year) so I am a "worst case" for rod end wear.
Noise, harse ride, and longevity are my main concerns with rod ends.
--VIP1
#17
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If i cant get my setup like i want it this go around, i am going to try BADZ's lcas. I did have the LG poly/rod lca and people say they dont make noise, mine did. It sounded like a dump truck Not bashing any part here, just remember nosie is subjective and while some dont mind it, others may.
Jason
Jason