Noise with lca,phb, and torque arm.
09-04-2012, 04:30 PM
#1
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Noise with lca,phb, and torque arm. Hey guys. I just installed my new fab 9 with adj lca, adj phb and adj torque arm. All of the ends arm heim joints with no bushing. I went for my test drive yesterday and holy crap it sounded like my car was going to fall apart. Every time i would put my car in gear or take a corner or put the suspension on and off load I would hear this awfull and loud clank.
Is this the amount of noise they are talking about thats common with these kind of suspension pieces? I figured there would be some noise but holy **** this is ridiculous. Also my differintial is a detroit locker and its my first experience with that as well. So im trying to figure out which piece exactly it is thats making all the damn noise! 
Anyways can this be fixed with different pieces that will thread onto the ends of my suspension that I already have?Or are there any tips to get rid of some of this noise? Thanks for you help guys.
Is this the amount of noise they are talking about thats common with these kind of suspension pieces? I figured there would be some noise but holy **** this is ridiculous. Also my differintial is a detroit locker and its my first experience with that as well. So im trying to figure out which piece exactly it is thats making all the damn noise! Anyways can this be fixed with different pieces that will thread onto the ends of my suspension that I already have?Or are there any tips to get rid of some of this noise? Thanks for you help guys. 
09-05-2012, 12:18 PM
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Googled heim joints.. another word for rod ends I'm assuming.
Yes... rod ends are noisy, lol. Mostly coming from the LCAs though. Dual rod ended PHB doesn't nearly contribute to the noise like rod ended LCAs. I just added dual rod ends LCAs on my car and they are very clunky. Noise doesn't worry me though.
Can you swap out one of your LCA rod ends for an adjustable bushing or a roto-similar joint?
Yes... rod ends are noisy, lol. Mostly coming from the LCAs though. Dual rod ended PHB doesn't nearly contribute to the noise like rod ended LCAs. I just added dual rod ends LCAs on my car and they are very clunky. Noise doesn't worry me though.
Can you swap out one of your LCA rod ends for an adjustable bushing or a roto-similar joint?
09-05-2012, 12:52 PM
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Essentially you put the noisiest setup in your car that you could. Personally, I would check/verify that everything is tight (Bolts, nuts, fit from the ID of the rod-end to the bolt, etc). If all that is tight, then what you are dealing with is the normal noise of your combo.
I KNOW a Detroit Locker is a NOISY/CLUNKY SOB; just by design. I ran a rod-end setup for years with a Eaton Posi unit, and while the suspension was noisier, it wasn't un-godly. I'd be willing to bet 75% is the Locker, 25% is the suspension.
I KNOW a Detroit Locker is a NOISY/CLUNKY SOB; just by design. I ran a rod-end setup for years with a Eaton Posi unit, and while the suspension was noisier, it wasn't un-godly. I'd be willing to bet 75% is the Locker, 25% is the suspension.
09-05-2012, 01:02 PM
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Ok guys, thanks for the input. Thats what I am trying to see what it is thats making the noise. The clanking is just god aweful and makes a gut wrenching noise. It seriously sounds like **** is breaking haha. So you guys are starting to think its mostly the locker then? If thats the case ill probably keep the suspension, and maybe look into a good posi unit.
09-05-2012, 01:52 PM
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Detroit Lockers sound like they're going to explode when they unlock. Look online on how the "teeth" work; it's very similar to a face-plated transmission only spring loaded.
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09-05-2012, 02:45 PM
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By your description, I think that you may be experiencing the same end link rattling that drove me crazy when I installed my set of end links from UMI Performance. The noise on my car was produced when the links jiggled back and forth on the joints, especially over bumps or on uneven pavement.
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
09-05-2012, 03:01 PM
#9
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By your description, I think that you may be experiencing the same end link rattling that drove me crazy when I installed my set of end links from UMI Performance. The noise on my car was produced when the links jiggled back and forth on the joints, especially over bumps or on uneven pavement.
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
Sounds like the same thing I am experiencing. How has your solution been holding up? Were all of your joints heim joints like mine?
09-05-2012, 03:08 PM
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By your description, I think that you may be experiencing the same end link rattling that drove me crazy when I installed my set of end links from UMI Performance. The noise on my car was produced when the links jiggled back and forth on the joints, especially over bumps or on uneven pavement.
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
I solved my problem by getting the thickest, sturdiest zip ties that I could find at Lowe's and firmly wrapping them between the two contact areas on each joint connection. I then liberally applied a thick coating of Liquid Nails over and around the areas and allowed it to dry to a good, protective shock absorber. Lastly, I wrapped each link joint with multiple strips of Gorilla tape and encased the tape in several layers of bed liner spray coating.
Extravagant? Very. But those joints are highly prone to rattling and I wanted a permanent solution.
The picture, below, depicts the joint area that was producing the rattling.
Someone here more talented and resourceful than I should have a better solution, but my "cheap fix" has worked great for me.
Good luck, man!
Everything you did was a band-aid, and did not address the real issue of where was the slop.
Most "noise" from rod-ends is due to the Bolt OD/Ball ID issue; there is typically a .050-.100 in diameter difference, this can allow shift. A higher tolerance bolt (with a better controlled OD) will reduce this OD delta dramatically; and thus reduce the clunk. Stock bolts and most aftermarket supplied bolts will be undersized, and not provide the proper tight tolerances needed.
IMO the noise he's hearing I'd be willing to bet $$ is primarily the Locker.
09-05-2012, 05:47 PM
#12
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Is there a way to preload the suspension to were you can tighten all the parts up to take out the slop? I already have my pinion set so is there a way I can lengthen or shorten my control arms to apply a certain amount of force against the torque arm so there wont be as much movement?
10-03-2012, 01:00 PM
#16
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To give you guys an update, I replaced the locker with a wavetrac, and all I can say there is a HUGE difference. I can't belive how loud and clanky the locker was, that has got to be the most horrible design ever. All i can say is if anyone ever is thinking of buying one for a street car, I would highly suggest something else.
10-03-2012, 01:32 PM
#17
This is the very reason why I describe them as for racers only. The benefit of rodends on a low-horse street car is usually not seen or even necessary. You've just eliminated every piece of sound deadening material from your rear suspension into your cabin. Torque arms make noise when they work as do rearends, transmissions, driveshafts, lower control arms and panhard bars. This is further exaggerated by rodends typically having some "slack" built into them that will only get worse over time. So your car is already generating noise and you installed parts that create their own noise while transferring residual noise into the cabin.
I hope it didn't sour your taste for suspension pieces because the right parts will improve your car while limiting the compromises.
- Kevin
I hope it didn't sour your taste for suspension pieces because the right parts will improve your car while limiting the compromises.
- Kevin
10-03-2012, 02:56 PM
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Well as of right now, there is only minimal amounts of noise with the rod ends. I can't believe what a difference it made to swap the locker out. The suspension seems alot more responsive and stiffer with the new suspension pieces I have.
