Adjusting UMI Roto-Joints?
10-16-2012, 04:21 PM
#2
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What kind of adjustment? Its left-loosey, righty-tighty.
The tool UMI sells is very helpful. It fits into the holes/notches in the face to allow you to tighten/loosen the joint. Use an Allen key/wrench to loosen the lock screw before attempting to loosen the side-plate and then re-tighten it after you tighten the side plate.
Make sure to put a thin layer of grease on all the parts before you reassemble the roto-joint. Then pump in some grease via the zerk fitting as well. I typically use red Mobil 1 Synthetic.
The tool UMI sells is very helpful. It fits into the holes/notches in the face to allow you to tighten/loosen the joint. Use an Allen key/wrench to loosen the lock screw before attempting to loosen the side-plate and then re-tighten it after you tighten the side plate.
Make sure to put a thin layer of grease on all the parts before you reassemble the roto-joint. Then pump in some grease via the zerk fitting as well. I typically use red Mobil 1 Synthetic.
10-17-2012, 12:14 AM
#6
For any UMI advice, you can always email ramey@umiperformance.com and I'll do my best to answer.
The guys were pretty spot on above. The Roto-Joint V1 has a wave ring. Version 2 has a set screw. A thin coat of grease and a quarter turn past where you came from usually is sufficient. They can be tighter than you think. The car can move the joint a lot more easily than your fingers can.
The guys were pretty spot on above. The Roto-Joint V1 has a wave ring. Version 2 has a set screw. A thin coat of grease and a quarter turn past where you came from usually is sufficient. They can be tighter than you think. The car can move the joint a lot more easily than your fingers can.
10-17-2012, 04:02 PM
#7
Ok, thanks. I have V2, with the set screw. One question though; one of the roto-joints threaded plates has set screw points in 4 places at 90* angles, one only has 2, 180* apart. It's not an issue as it is now, because it lined up right, but I'm assuming the 4 point one allows finer adjustment. Could I swap out that part?
One other change I made: I had clunking in the rear since installing all my rear suspension. I chalked it up to aftermarket parts transmitting more NHV, and thought the adjustable torque arm had a bit of slop in the adjusters. When I had the arms out, I measured the inside diameter of the bolt holes in the arms, and found them to be 1/2".
The original bolts that came with the arms had a noticeable amount of slop in the arms themselves, but were tight in the body mounting holes. I had tried tightening them almost until the point of breaking the bolt and could not get rid of the noise.
I re-drilled the mounting holes in the body to 1/2" and installed 1/2" grade 8 hardware. The 1/2" hardware fit the arms nearly perfectly. It was a bit tougher to get things to line up but not impossible.
After a test ride, I'm happy to report that *all* of the clunking is gone. Everything is quiet and smooth. The clunking was *not* the roto-joint, as there was no slop in it; it was still tight. I was waiting on other parts so while I had the down time I decided to clean 'em out and re-grease them.
One other change I made: I had clunking in the rear since installing all my rear suspension. I chalked it up to aftermarket parts transmitting more NHV, and thought the adjustable torque arm had a bit of slop in the adjusters. When I had the arms out, I measured the inside diameter of the bolt holes in the arms, and found them to be 1/2".
The original bolts that came with the arms had a noticeable amount of slop in the arms themselves, but were tight in the body mounting holes. I had tried tightening them almost until the point of breaking the bolt and could not get rid of the noise.
I re-drilled the mounting holes in the body to 1/2" and installed 1/2" grade 8 hardware. The 1/2" hardware fit the arms nearly perfectly. It was a bit tougher to get things to line up but not impossible.
After a test ride, I'm happy to report that *all* of the clunking is gone. Everything is quiet and smooth. The clunking was *not* the roto-joint, as there was no slop in it; it was still tight. I was waiting on other parts so while I had the down time I decided to clean 'em out and re-grease them.
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10-17-2012, 08:03 PM
#13
The 1/2" bolt upgrade from 12mm is somewhat common. When we designed the Roto-Joint we made the hole through the spherical ball the same size as factory.
Ok, thanks. I have V2, with the set screw. One question though; one of the roto-joints threaded plates has set screw points in 4 places at 90* angles, one only has 2, 180* apart. It's not an issue as it is now, because it lined up right, but I'm assuming the 4 point one allows finer adjustment. Could I swap out that part?
One other change I made: I had clunking in the rear since installing all my rear suspension. I chalked it up to aftermarket parts transmitting more NHV, and thought the adjustable torque arm had a bit of slop in the adjusters. When I had the arms out, I measured the inside diameter of the bolt holes in the arms, and found them to be 1/2".
The original bolts that came with the arms had a noticeable amount of slop in the arms themselves, but were tight in the body mounting holes. I had tried tightening them almost until the point of breaking the bolt and could not get rid of the noise.
I re-drilled the mounting holes in the body to 1/2" and installed 1/2" grade 8 hardware. The 1/2" hardware fit the arms nearly perfectly. It was a bit tougher to get things to line up but not impossible.
After a test ride, I'm happy to report that *all* of the clunking is gone. Everything is quiet and smooth. The clunking was *not* the roto-joint, as there was no slop in it; it was still tight. I was waiting on other parts so while I had the down time I decided to clean 'em out and re-grease them.
One other change I made: I had clunking in the rear since installing all my rear suspension. I chalked it up to aftermarket parts transmitting more NHV, and thought the adjustable torque arm had a bit of slop in the adjusters. When I had the arms out, I measured the inside diameter of the bolt holes in the arms, and found them to be 1/2".
The original bolts that came with the arms had a noticeable amount of slop in the arms themselves, but were tight in the body mounting holes. I had tried tightening them almost until the point of breaking the bolt and could not get rid of the noise.
I re-drilled the mounting holes in the body to 1/2" and installed 1/2" grade 8 hardware. The 1/2" hardware fit the arms nearly perfectly. It was a bit tougher to get things to line up but not impossible.
After a test ride, I'm happy to report that *all* of the clunking is gone. Everything is quiet and smooth. The clunking was *not* the roto-joint, as there was no slop in it; it was still tight. I was waiting on other parts so while I had the down time I decided to clean 'em out and re-grease them.
