Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Finally going to lower the car. Might prove to be a giant mistake with the long tubes and the speed bumps/angled driveways around here, however I'm tired of the 4x4 look.

I understand that I'll need LCA relocation brackets and an alignment to correct the geometry once the new springs are installed.

Most of what I read on here regarding LCAs seems to be geared to maximizing straight line traction. Straight line traction is important to me, however ultimately I'm trying to enhance the car's handling on road courses. That in mind, any recommendations on which specific LCAs would be best (presumably non-poly ends) for my application?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I needed something that would keep my UE decoupled torque arm from shifting too much to the left or right in the safety loop. I just decided to go with dual rod ends. They do increase noise and impact... but my concern is with keeping the rear in place. I don't care if I get a little noise.

I may consider putting together my stock LCA's and the moog solid bushings I bought (never put them together) and trying that. If these keep the arm off the safety loop... I might stick with them.

If you are tracking your car... do you care about noise much? If not, dual rod ends should do the trick. But there are probably 20 different ways you could go and would be fine with all of them.

Chevyman1968

Sorry for the dumb questions but what is LCA?

Lower Control Arm?

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

LCA = Lower Control Arms.

Thanks Bryan. I'm tracking the car however would still like to retain some of the few creature comforts (if possible), so I would prefer to avoid the noise of dual rod ends. Any thoughts on the next best option?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I found that my custom DKT LCAs with Currie 2" Johnny Joints, have worked the best for me, there perfectly quiet, no bind, don't loosen up, and still have little to now wear on the poly bushings inside them since 2009
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-dkt-lcas.html
I've tried the UMI with the roto-joints the bushing seem to wear quick, they still transfer more road noise than I want to hear. I've also had good results with the J&Ms with the poly-ball. Hell if you want I'll sell you my GlobalWest LCAs with the noisy spherical bearings for cheap, they still articulate really good.

ChrisRZ28

I'm happy with mine.

DarkblueTA

I have stock control arms (and bushings), no brackets and with a double adjustable rod/rod PHB. The car rotates great and noise ....what noise?

Carter Hays

For years I did HPDEs and open road racing with nothing but konis and good tires. Drove the car to work around town etc nice and comfy... Started throwing more aftermarket stuff on it and the streetability went downhill fast. It got old driving a "race car" everyday.

Freshen up the stock arms with new moog bushings and drive it. When you can out drive the car then start throwing money at it.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I think this is a no brainer if it works fine, and I can see it. Stock arms work better than tons of people think.

I might even go back to this myself just to test it out.

DarkblueTA

+1.

Love when I get into a dig race and the other guys can't believe how well the car hooks up. Then they think I'm bsing them when I tell them I still have the stock control arms with no relocation brackets until they look under the car.

I don't understand the whole "You NEED LCA's and/or brackets".

SuperSport01

I'd say stock LCA's with a rod/rod PHB. For springs and shocks I'd say Koni shocks with Ground Control coilovers for their ease of changing spring rate and custom tailoring your ride height and corner weights.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

Stock LCAs + Moogs = good to go.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

BMR does offer their lca's with rubber bushings.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Exactly as far as LCAs go. 90% of the people on here who crap their pants in joy about LCA's don't really need them. They'd be fine with stock arms.

Although the relo brackets I think make sense for when anti squat is needed.

DarkblueTA

I agree with brackets if I was drag racing the heck out of it.

I <3 turns, so no brackets for me. The car does everything well. Rides well, hooks and just sticks in the turns.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I replaced my LCAs simply because my bushings were shot on the stock arms and it was worth the slight extra cost to just put new arms in vs fight the bushings in the stock arms. Dealing with the front bushings was enough

I want to focus more on cornering, but just for street and not competitively. I did get LCA relocation brackets. Maybe I shouldn't have, but I lowered the car so I used the upper hole on the brackets to get it closer to the stock angle. A tad more aggressive than stock really, but not going all out with the lower hole. I might play with the various settings at some point just to see the effects.