2000 camaro subframe connectors
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2000 camaro subframe connectors
Ive been looking into some subframe connectors, weld ins or bolt ins and possibly a 3 pt set up from UMI. My camaro is a convertible. I am sticking with bolt ons for now, a few years I may do a 6 liter and some more power. What would be best ?
#4
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I am running the 3 point bolt-in UMI's. I can tell you one benefit right now - lowered my car, and I am out of practice of driving a lowered car (I DD a mildly lifted 4x4 for the last 6 years) and took a speed bump in a parking garage a little too quickly. Banged off the SFC's pretty well, but I didn't hit anything else under the car.
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I keep looking at the bolt in UMI since you can weld them in at a later date. My welding is a little bit rusty but my buddy owns a fab shop and will do it for a case of beer, so he is always a week or 2 backed up but I figure if I do the dirty work of mounting them I will just have him do the welding since he does race chassis's
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She is going to be very well cared for and I have lots of plans for her as well. Garaged by the end of october in a heated garage and thats when the insanity will start lol Im having too much fun right now driving her, now if only the weather changes up a bit
#11
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You want to consider what you are trying to accomplish... connecting the subframes. If you look at some of these you will notice the "connector" is bolted to the outboard side of the LCA bracket in the rear, and sometimes the front even stops short of the real subframe and ties to the floor crossbrace(what the trans crossmember bolts to).
The outboard side of the rear LCA bracket is nowhere near the rear subframe, and are usually positioned alongside the rocker pinch weld. The rocker is the absolute strongest place in a unibody car so why would you add metal there?
Please consider the MWC true subframe connectors that actually connect the front and rear subframes. We only offer them in a weld-in style as I can guarantee you that any bolted in component will flex at the connection point and do next to nothing for chassis rigidity.
The outboard side of the rear LCA bracket is nowhere near the rear subframe, and are usually positioned alongside the rocker pinch weld. The rocker is the absolute strongest place in a unibody car so why would you add metal there?
Please consider the MWC true subframe connectors that actually connect the front and rear subframes. We only offer them in a weld-in style as I can guarantee you that any bolted in component will flex at the connection point and do next to nothing for chassis rigidity.
#12
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I was heavily considering the MWC as I do like the idea of truly tying the subframes together. I came across these UMI 3 point bolt-ins for a killer deal, and decided to give them a try.
While the MWC pieces may be the best out there, I can cay the UMI three points are helping a lot. I'm doing a clutch replacement right now, and put the car up on jack stands. They stiffened the car enough that it was "three wheeling" slightly on the jack stands and I had to adjust them to properly support all 4 corners. In the past, the body would have flexed and it would have sat on all 4 stands evenly from the get-go.
I do believe SFC's help, but no, I don't think they can end world hunger or cure cancer. From what I have read, the MWC pieces are great, but I haven't heard many (or any) complaints about the UMI's either. I say for the price I paid they are a worthwhile mod, especially on a 'vert.
While the MWC pieces may be the best out there, I can cay the UMI three points are helping a lot. I'm doing a clutch replacement right now, and put the car up on jack stands. They stiffened the car enough that it was "three wheeling" slightly on the jack stands and I had to adjust them to properly support all 4 corners. In the past, the body would have flexed and it would have sat on all 4 stands evenly from the get-go.
I do believe SFC's help, but no, I don't think they can end world hunger or cure cancer. From what I have read, the MWC pieces are great, but I haven't heard many (or any) complaints about the UMI's either. I say for the price I paid they are a worthwhile mod, especially on a 'vert.
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Wow the MWC is half the cost of the UMI, I am on a limited budget at the moment, I just switched jobs and took a bit of a pay cut. Anyone wanna buy a car in southeast mi ? lol. Thats why Im doing all my homework before buying things, I wanna do it right and one time instead of just buying a part to have it. I like the Idea of the UMI but if I can get the Chromoly MWC for their price Im all over it lol
#14
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Wow the MWC is half the cost of the UMI, I am on a limited budget at the moment, I just switched jobs and took a bit of a pay cut. Anyone wanna buy a car in southeast mi ? lol. Thats why Im doing all my homework before buying things, I wanna do it right and one time instead of just buying a part to have it. I like the Idea of the UMI but if I can get the Chromoly MWC for their price Im all over it lol
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Yeah, I guess 2 cases of beer will be needed to move my car to the front of the line at my buddys shop lol. I guess the question is though do the MWC work on converts ?
#16
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Hello,
Thanks for considering the UMI brand, we appreciate that!
The cool thing about our set up is if you purchase the bolt in style they come to you ready to bolt in with all the brackets and hardware, along with a nice thick glossy coat of powder coat, they are flawless! Our connectors are a little more expensive but if you look at the extended machine and bend time we have it shows why.
The other nice thing about the bolt in style is you can weld them at any time. Purchasing bolt in does not limit you to bolt in only. So saving on the welding cost right now is a huge plus! Most shops will charge between $100-200 to weld in a set of SFC's. You can even buy our weld in set #2026 and pay $10 more to bolt them in. This way you don't need to weld right away. You can install in your driveway in less than an hour with standard tools.
Lastly, I have been running bolt in SFC's on my personal car since 2006 and the holes have not changed in shape and they have never came loose. I do believe if they come loose you can elongate holes but keeping them tight, they will work good. I purposely did not weld them and have not yet for this reason. The car is used for street, drag and it is now getting some changes for autox.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
Thanks for considering the UMI brand, we appreciate that!
The cool thing about our set up is if you purchase the bolt in style they come to you ready to bolt in with all the brackets and hardware, along with a nice thick glossy coat of powder coat, they are flawless! Our connectors are a little more expensive but if you look at the extended machine and bend time we have it shows why.
The other nice thing about the bolt in style is you can weld them at any time. Purchasing bolt in does not limit you to bolt in only. So saving on the welding cost right now is a huge plus! Most shops will charge between $100-200 to weld in a set of SFC's. You can even buy our weld in set #2026 and pay $10 more to bolt them in. This way you don't need to weld right away. You can install in your driveway in less than an hour with standard tools.
Lastly, I have been running bolt in SFC's on my personal car since 2006 and the holes have not changed in shape and they have never came loose. I do believe if they come loose you can elongate holes but keeping them tight, they will work good. I purposely did not weld them and have not yet for this reason. The car is used for street, drag and it is now getting some changes for autox.
I hope that helps,
Ryan