69blackwhss

iTrader: (9)

I was looking at ws6 for sale an ran across one with c5 brakes on it looked killer an I bet it stopped a lot better but not for sure....

how would I go about doing this on my ws6 I picked up Saturday....I would up grade the rotor to cross drilled an slotted also if I can...

I want to do a subframe connector bolt in's also but seen diff ones the old school like I have on my 69 Camaro an also seen ones like a cage lol they are called 3 point subframe connectors bolt in's
what is the best fitment an bang for the buck u guy would go with....
an what is the best shock/strut tower brace also guys???

also I was thinking of getting some diff wheels from 6le designs 2009 zo6 spyder replicas black in 18x9.5 with 56mm mark said I can run a 295 are a 315 tire if I get a adjustable panhard rod so can some one point me in the rite direction on a adjustable panhard rod also....

I want the car not to twist! any since am use to this from the 69 Camaro lol which I have added subframe connectors to since then lol

but 69 to 2002 is a big jump an I don't want to waste money on things I don't need an most u guys have used these parts befor
an ls1tech has help me build my lsx 69 Camaro so why not get u all to help build the 2002 ws6

thanks guy an sorry for a long an lots of questions

Zark

iTrader: (1)

There is a good sticky detailing how to install CTS-V brakes, this would be a good starting point if you looking for a budget friendly BBK. In my experience you should skip the slotted rotors unless you want them to crack, and instead go with some drilled only, or even blanks.

Hopefully you are aware that 6LE is (unfortunately) going out of business, so if you want to get those wheels from them, you should do so quickly. If you don't make their deadline, OE wheels (another sponsor here) http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/Wheels-for-Pontiac
has a very good selection of replica vette wheels. Also, if you would like something a little different, RPM 505's, and Miro 111's look great on Ponticas!

IMO the best suspension bang for your buck will always be Founders Performance. They charge much less than their competitors and have great quality products. I have their triple Poly LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, and Double adjustable Panhard Rod. Great stuff, they dont have bolt in SFC's, but for the price of their weld ins,
you could hire a good welder, and still come out cheaper than the competitors. Also If you are thinking about suspension/lowering, BMR is having a sale on Konis and their 1.25 lowering springs. Basically if you buy the Konis, you get the Springs free.

JD_AMG

Try a search, this general topic has been covered just about every day.
Brake pads make the biggest stopping difference, not the rotor. On top of that drilled rotors are the ones that crack, slotted and/or blank are a lot safer bet for reliability.
SFCs are not necessary. They don't hurt, but I doubt you will notice a difference. The "flex" most people think they feel is poor shock dampening, and miss matching shock valving. Same goes for the shock tower brace.
You want the car to feel really solid, planted and "one piece" look into some Koni SA's : http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7

69blackwhss

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all the help! I had seen a ws6 with the miro 111's but didn't know what they was till now. It pull that car up an went to his page k. Here sweet. Do u know where the best place to get them I have looked on 6le site an the other one oem wheels nether have them. An yes I saw where 6le is going to close there doors . Ill look up the cuts-v brake build an read up on it!! But for the triple Poly LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, and Double adjustable Panhard Rod what do they Actually do for the car? Sorry a Stupid question to ask but am old school guy. Am out on the new stuff that the newer Musclecar set ups.
Thanks for helping btw

69blackwhss

iTrader: (9)

Ur link on the shocks are a lot cheaper But with out the lowering springs it looks like 200.00 more for free springs lol from BMR. Free don't sound free to me. Haha. Thanks for the link. The car only has 82k on it an its all stock so I will say ill be needing stocks soon so I mite just get the koni SA's

JD_AMG

Use the search function and read the stickies at the top of the suspension section:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-tech-faq.html
All of the above you do not need.

Miles are irrelevant if you have the stock decarbon (orange/black) brand shocks, as they were trash brand new off the show room floor. Its not about age or wear, its about how they were valved in the first place.

idle

iTrader: (5)

Not trying to hate, but if you had better grammar your questions would probably be more widely answered.

Zark

iTrader: (1)

My bad about suggesting drilled rotors, I meant slotted, dyslexia kicked in I guess, total brain fart.

Whether SFCs actually provide enough benefit to justify their cost and the old "Strano vs. BMR War" are both debates that have been waged here many times in the past, so you will probably get multiple answers on those questions.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

For the c5 brakes, you can check out brakemotives sale, and then all you would need is UMI's c5 brake adapters.

Zark

iTrader: (1)

Also, this is the link to the sale I was talking about. $757.12 for 4 new springs and 4 adj. Konis. I actually just bought a set myself.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=823

LS199CAMAROZ28

iTrader: (32)

If you are going to replace the shocks I would recommend replacing your a-arm bushings, shock mounts and spring seats. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends and rack. It's a pain but my car (with very similar mileage to yours) had worn lower a-arm bushings and the tie rod end rubbers were torn. I went ahead and replaced all while I was in there. Actually I'm still working on the passenger side.

69blackwhss

iTrader: (9)

I put it up on the dealers lift an look under it all the looked great

69blackwhss

iTrader: (9)

Good deal that page is saved that will be the deal I go with!!