Slotted Rotors
#4
I currently have brakemotive rotors. Theyre drilled and slotted. Mainly for looks since its just a DD, i dont think i needed the best of the best. However, they are noticeably heavier than stock rotors. Good budget brakes, but heavy.
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Are the ATE premium one rotors still available? They have an interesting slot pattern.. looks like an atomic symbol. They are definitely the best quality rotors I've ever owned and they resist rust much better than my old Brembo blanks. Those things rusted within a few weeks.
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#8
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Are the ATE premium one rotors still available? They have an interesting slot pattern.. looks like an atomic symbol. They are definitely the best quality rotors I've ever owned and they resist rust much better than my old Brembo blanks. Those things rusted within a few weeks.
#10
I believe they are discontinued. I tried looking about a month ago and Tire rack had the backs and various websites had the front but nobody had both so I would've been buying from different websites. If you find them let me know I wanted to go with them but it looks like I am going with Best Brand blanks from Strano....
Any experience/opinions welcome to help me make a choice.
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#13
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i did drilled/slotted rotors from ebay, I think $200 shipped for all 4.
did it for looks since i had chrome rims and polished calipers back then, but after couple years around 20k miles they got super noisy and would groan especially the rears. i've since put my oem rotors and pads on which i had saved and things are quiet and normal.
I don't know if it was because they were cheap chinese rotors or if because they were slotted they got noisy, or the pads but i never braked the car hard and the rotors had no signs of heat, were smooth never pulsated like they were warped. and the pads i had were basically full when I threw them out. if you have a street car i would just get napa premium or any regular blank from a local parts store. biggest thing is make sure whatever you buy does not need to be turned prior to install, or go through the hassle of measuring runout yourself when installing. the drill and slot i think is a lot of bs when they claim performance benefits.
did it for looks since i had chrome rims and polished calipers back then, but after couple years around 20k miles they got super noisy and would groan especially the rears. i've since put my oem rotors and pads on which i had saved and things are quiet and normal.
I don't know if it was because they were cheap chinese rotors or if because they were slotted they got noisy, or the pads but i never braked the car hard and the rotors had no signs of heat, were smooth never pulsated like they were warped. and the pads i had were basically full when I threw them out. if you have a street car i would just get napa premium or any regular blank from a local parts store. biggest thing is make sure whatever you buy does not need to be turned prior to install, or go through the hassle of measuring runout yourself when installing. the drill and slot i think is a lot of bs when they claim performance benefits.
#15
I've got slotted rotors and no issues at all. And I DO beat the **** out of my brakes. I was up in the mountains this weekend and was doing hard accelerations and then hard braking on curvy mountain roads and had a fickin BLAST!!
Last edited by 38DD2436; 09-09-2013 at 06:35 PM.
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Drilling a rotor is primarily for weight reduction. NOT recommended for street use due to the tendency to crack. Some people run them on the street but that is for looks they don't get any performance advantage from them.
Slotted rotors should not crack if they are machined properly.
#18
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You just quoted a 8 year old post, but I'm glad you like your rotor/pad configuration. I was thinking ove changing up my current blanks/ pads.
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Kjduvall (01-18-2021)