SSDavid

I thought I had researched it enough and thought I had everything but I was wrong. So heres everything that was needed to have a 100% bolt on koni setup for the fronts because I could never find the answer.

-Koni shocks (I got Koni 4/4)
-Your choice of springs (Strano)
-Front strut mounts (Moog K6516 & K6517, left and right side specific)
-Front coil spring isolators (Moog K6573 X2)
-Front lower spring pads (Moog K80927 X2) (this is the part I was missing)

I had put everything together and had to take it back apart to put the spring pads in. Doing the work twice sucks.

Before


After

TA'sAllDay

How does it ride? What is the goal with these shocks? How much were they? I really need to replace mine(stock) and im not looking for anything to badass, just want to be able to feel the difference. Id like a happy medium, straights, cornering, ride comfort.
And needs to be completely bolt on. Would this set up be a good choice for me? 1999 firebird V6. But I am soon to drop a ls1, would any adjusting on the shocks be needed after the swap?
Thanks alot

DemonicZ

These are top of the line shocks/strugs looking at $1100+ for a complete set. not including springs. I would venture more towards Bilsteins. They are the perfect non adjustable balance between road and race. Strano springs are great. People also like BMR and Eibach springs. Might want to give UMI a call they have a new VI-king kit in the works.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Whoa, whoa, whoa... you aren't looking at $1100+ without springs, that's just not correct. The most expensive set of Singles is $999. While I will grant you that is not nothing, it is by my figuring $101+ less than that the asserted price. And we have a set that are $899 that are a bit less easy to adjust for the rear, but now you are talking $899, which is even further from $1100+. In fact for $1100+ you could have Koni's AND a set of my springs. HP4 is $1139, has the springs with it.

I carry Bilstein also, HP2 is $620 and has those with my springs. And we have a new kit the HP2.5 that has the new Koni STR.T non-adjustable dampers and my springs. It's $624 and looks like the first very small batch of the fronts (we've been waiting on those) has arrived in the USA. To be honest with my Koni STR.T experience on other cars I have little doubt I'll be moving over to those as the cost effective kit over the Bilstein's (better value, more rebound damping, lifetime warranty too).

Koni is the standard. Koni puts shocks on F1 cars, Sports cars, FIA GT3 cars etc. You don't find QA1 and Viking, etc in those kind of places. You do see Bilstein's on a lot of performance cars, but the thing here is the Bilstein valving is not the valving that Bilstein itself originally had, and it is not a Sport valving. The front is kind of a hybrid HD/Sport valving the rear isn't. They are good value for someone who cruises mostly and rarely hustles a car hard. If you autox or track the car much, or drive a lot of miles I can't say the Bilstein's are you *best* long term option.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

This is a case where I'd recommend either Bilstein or the Koni STR.T. I do think Koni Sports are likely more than you are looking for if your statement above is accurate.

SSDavid

I too would recommend bilstein if your not looking for anything crazy. The ride is noticably better with just the bilsteins, but once you start going through some corners the koni's shine.

SSDavid

My buddy has a 98 z28 with bilsteins and it rides nice with the oem springs. My stock shocks were pretty bad. Body roll wasnt too bad. But acceleration and braking the car dipped hard. Dont have any of that any more.

TA'sAllDay

Thanks for the input guys.
I've been researching this badboy of a setup and I am really considering buying it.
I was thinking about ordering a master bushing set too. Thoughts or experiences? Does anyone know how long it would take to install, if I should get a master set or mix and match, and if so what is a good brand and what makes it better than the rest.

Killer_Z

iTrader: (1)

yeah i'm with sam, go Koni or go home. I have Bilstiens, me no likey. at first they were great but after a year not great.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Hang on a sec... What are you considering a "master kit"? Sounds to me like you are thinking poly and that's not a good idea. Notice I don't sell poly control arm bushing on my website, most especially for the front lowers. They suck. They will fail. They are a pain in the *** to install too.

If it's a street car, I use stock replacement bushings. And if you get different LCA's in the back they have new bushings anyway.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, that's the rub and what I've been telling folks for years. Bilstein's, when fresh and new, can deal with moderate rate springs decently. But as the miles go on, they start to get a little overwhelmed. It matters a LOT how hard you drive the car, and what the roads are like. The harder the shocks have to work, they more you want better ones.

I sell the Bilsteins with springs, because that's what a lot of people want and frankly I know others do, and if I only had more expensive options, well I wouldn't be here long to try and help you guys out.

Killer_Z

iTrader: (1)

u said it. only if the SRT-T'w were out alot sooner, probably would have gotten those from the beginning. oh well. time to save up for Koni's and ur sway bars. Hopefully I land this new job on Friday, make things come together sooner.

oh does the Watts link work with the dana 60? If my memory is correct the watts link is for 3" axle tubes, and i think the 60 is slightly bigger, not 100% sure. but the amount i race i'll probably settle for a strange 12 bolt. but watts link definitely in my future as well.

TA'sAllDay

I have heard awful things about poly and don't want anything to do with that. My car has over 235000 miles.... so id really like to replace all the bushings and mounts. But id like to buy a master kit, hopefully it'll save me a little cash. Is it possible to buy all the rubber bushings and mounts from one place at a good deal? where?

Why would I need a different LCAs for the back. Is the stock not strong enough?

I have heard awful things about poly and don't want anything to do with that. My car has over 235000 miles.... so id really like to replace all the bushings and mounts. But id like to buy a master kit, hopefully it'll save me a little cash. Is it possible to buy all the rubber bushings and mounts from one place at a good deal? where?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I have a kit that has all new rubber bushings (and ball joints too if you want them, seems smart given the mileage and the fact you'd be in there that deep already).

I didn't say you needed different LCA's. I am going to caution you to read anything you see carefully. I only said *IF* you got different LCA's that they would have some bushings already. Not that you have to, or should. It's one of the most common things people do (not that I think as many of them who do, should) so I just felt I should mention it.

This is the kit I have with all new bushings (direct fit press in) and the 4 new front ball-joints too.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7

If for some reason you skip the ball-joints, all the bushings in OEM type rubber are $188 in total and all are listed (front upper, front lower, and rears) on my website on this page: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=18&ModelID=7

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I really can't tell you if the S60 and Fays will work together. I have never tried, because I've never used such a heavy/big axle. It's less than ideal for a cornering car. The Fays2 clamps will work on 3" axle tubes. A Fays2 will work with a 12-bolt.

TA'sAllDay

First off thanks for getting back to me so fast you are awesome.
And yes your right you didn't say I need them, I was just wondering why people get them
And I just purchased a tie rod end and ball joint kit, So I will just be needing the bushings.
What other bushings should be replaced? Any mounts?
Thanks again

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

People do all kinds of things for all kinds of reasons. But mostly, these days, it comes down to "I read on the internet that....."

No other bushings under there except the PHB and sway bar bushings. A new PHB has new bushings, or we can get those too... and aftermarket sway bars have new bushings and endlinks with them as well (and make the car roll a lot less too). But the stock endlinks are also delrin which doesn't really degrade. The mount bushings can, and the stock links are pretty sure to snap when you try and remove them anyway.

vtirocz

Sam,
When installing this kit, do you recommend replacing the panhard bar bushings as well? If so, do you sell those?

Thanks.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No, I don't. They really don't wear much to be honest. But if you want them, I can get them. Typically though I don't bother since so many put on new PHB's which come with bushings, and the cost of bushings and the labor gets you close to a new non-adjustable PHB anyway, combined with the fact that the stock PHB bushings don't take the pounding the front lower LCA's do, I don't bother.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

So are these actually needed for install or is this just for a true bolt-on install? I ask, because I want to know if I can reuse the stock stuff?

I bought similar stuff when I did lowering springs on my Nissan and ended up not using any of them. All of the OE stuff looked fine and was reusable.

-Front strut mounts (Moog K6516 & K6517, left and right side specific)
-Front coil spring isolators (Moog K6573 X2)
-Front lower spring pads (Moog K80927 X2)