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Adjustable vs non-adjustable everything

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Old 10-11-2013, 02:38 AM
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Default Adjustable vs non-adjustable everything

What's ya take on a street car.
I have a 98 camaro that I'm redoing a lot of things on and rear suspension is the one coming up.
The car has a 5.3 its getting h/c/i and dope along with a th350
It has all bolt ones also
It probably won't see the track
Budget isn't a issue but I don't wanna spend more than necessary because its a street car daily driver nothing serious
Now my plan is to get a body mount ta, lca, relocation bracket, panhard bar qa1 shocks and maybe sway bar. Should I buy adjustable or stick with non adjustable
Any input will help thanks
Old 10-11-2013, 09:58 AM
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Personally I think adjustable is the way to go. Since it probably won't see the track I would say go with poly bushings. That way it will provide a firmer feel, but without the NVH associated with rod ends.
Old 10-11-2013, 10:15 AM
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Definitely go with the adjustable. I have that set up and it's my daily driver for school. Shocks are **** but the cars feels solid
Old 10-11-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Santi
What's ya take on a street car.
I have a 98 camaro that I'm redoing a lot of things on and rear suspension is the one coming up.
The car has a 5.3 its getting h/c/i and dope along with a th350
It has all bolt ones also
It probably won't see the track
Budget isn't a issue but I don't wanna spend more than necessary because its a street car daily driver nothing serious
Now my plan is to get a body mount ta, lca, relocation bracket, panhard bar qa1 shocks and maybe sway bar. Should I buy adjustable or stick with non adjustable
Any input will help thanks
If you aren't planning on lowering the car there isn't a real need for an adjustable panhard rod but if there is a possibility of you lowering the car than I would go ahead and just get an adjustable panhard bar. If you plan on doing the weld-in lower control arm relocation brackets or running a larger wheel/tire combination than adjustable lower control arms will be a good option. If you are planning on doing the bolt-in relocation brackets and sticking with a factory wheel and tire size then non-adjustable lower control arms will be fin for you. You can't really go wrong with just going ahead with the adjustable parts to begin with but depending on your setup you may have some adjustments that you won't need/use.
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Old 10-11-2013, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
If you aren't planning on lowering the car there isn't a real need for an adjustable panhard rod but if there is a possibility of you lowering the car than I would go ahead and just get an adjustable panhard bar. If you plan on doing the weld-in lower control arm relocation brackets or running a larger wheel/tire combination than adjustable lower control arms will be a good option. If you are planning on doing the bolt-in relocation brackets and sticking with a factory wheel and tire size then non-adjustable lower control arms will be fin for you. You can't really go wrong with just going ahead with the adjustable parts to begin with but depending on your setup you may have some adjustments that you won't need/use.
I will be lowering the carv and running a 15in rim
Old 10-14-2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Santi
I will be lowering the carv and running a 15in rim
Well than it sounds like running adjustable parts would be your best option since you will need that adjustment to help get everything located.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Steinjager
Personally I think adjustable is the way to go. Since it probably won't see the track I would say go with poly bushings. That way it will provide a firmer feel, but without the NVH associated with rod ends.
Not traditional poly though, that's not so great on the street. Binds the rear axle suspension when it twists through corners, uneven pavement, etc. You want something that allows the axle to move around properly.

Poly on the front suspension is fine EXCEPT for the caster bushing on the LCA. Due to its design the arm pivots on it 90 degrees of the axis (the bolt is vertical). Rubber is compliant enough to allow for this, heim or roto joints etc allow for it due to their ball-like nature, but poly doesn't, and people have literally broken the mount and/or the arm from the stress caused by putting poly in that spot. That's why every aftermarket part maker uses a different type of joint on that location for their aftermarket control arms even if the rest are poly.
Old 10-22-2013, 06:24 AM
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Thanks for the input guys
Old 10-22-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
Not traditional poly though, that's not so great on the street. Binds the rear axle suspension when it twists through corners, uneven pavement, etc. You want something that allows the axle to move around properly.
I absolutely hated the poly tubular LCAs. Would have loved to have been able to find some rubbers to press into them. Taking high speed turns on the highway felt out of control with oversteer issues. I went back to the factory LCAs with new Moog rubber bushings. That's the way to go for street driving.
Old 10-22-2013, 09:57 AM
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I love my Founders 3 piece poly LCAs. They allow the axle to move around due to the ball inside, don't have as much excess deflection as rubber, aren't expensive, don't have as much NVH as a rod end would, and hopefully will wear well compared to a rod end. They didn't cost much more than getting new rubber bushings for the stock LCAs, and I didn't have to screw around with pressing anything in or out. Win.
Old 10-22-2013, 10:30 AM
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If you don't plan on tracking the car then I don't think you want qa1 shocks as they're for the strip. As for the LCA's I went with Founders poly/rod end and I am extremely happy. The difference it made going over bumps on the highway with the solid rear axle is incredible. I wish I would've went with rod/rod. Also I'd recommend adjustable everything because you could easily change your plans in the future and the adjustable isn't that much more expensive.



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