ggino85

iTrader: (1)

Hey everyone, im stumped as to what could be causing this..... trying to bleed my calipers after a brake pad and rotor swap (spongy peddle sinking to the floor after the swap). I've been able to successfully bleed all of the brake calipers with the mityvac except for the front passenger side caliper. Mostly air comes out of the bleeder screw, a small amount of fluid will com out eventually but not much and it takes a lot of pumping, unlike the other calipers. It doesn't even hold a slight vacuum like the other calipers did. Rite when I start pumping the mityvac you hear a gurgling sound, very little fluid comes out and it looses vacuum. The seal on the bleeder screw is tight. I can put the vacuum on the screw before opening it and it will hold vacuum but the second I open the bleeder screw you hear air bubbles and it looses vacuum quickly, so its not leaking from the line going on the bleeder screw, because it only loses vacuum once I open the screw. any help im completely stumped

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

All you did was change pads and rotors? Have you tried bleeding the traditional method? I would be willing to bet you damaged a hose during your swap.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

No not just pads and rotors, I actually started off by replacing my ball joints, then that led to all the front bushings, tierod ends, and endlinks...... then I figured I might as well get the brakemotive drilled/slotted rotors since everything is already off. I got everything put back together and noticed the brakes felt soft. They weren't the best before but definitely not as bad as after the swap. I figured they needed to be bleed which led me here. I'll go try the traditional method and check the lines. I'll report back in a few minutes.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

Sorry it took me so long to get back. i took my buddy who was helping me bleed the brakes home and we had a few beers laughing about how we took all day bleeding brakes and still couldnt get them right. We came to the conclusion that at least we cleaned out the brake system/lines.

We ended up being able to bleed the caliper with the traditional method, but the brakes are still soft. Another friend of mine said i need to use the tradional method but with the car running? i have never done it this way and wondered if people here have experience with that.

Other info, the fluid is completely clear coming out of each caliper. i ended up flushing almost 4 big bottles of dot 3 through the master yesterday. i read in my haynes book that you should bleed the abs modulater but i cant find the bleeder screw, i was thinking maybe that part in the book was for 97' and earlier??

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Air is leaking from the threads of the bleeder screw, that's where the bubbles are coming from. Mityvac recommends putting grease around the bleeder screw to seal it. I've had good luck using grease to seal the bleeders when they leak this way.
http://www.mityvac.com/user_manuals/824345_revB.pdf

wayland1985

I have also heard of people using Teflon plumbing tape too.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Try removing your abs fuse and see if your pedal feel returns to normal.