DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, just wondering if I could get some feed back from experience on adjusting a suspension set up for a Manual F-Body. Tire is a P255/50R16 MT ET Street. I know it's a bit of an oddball size. The car isn't making a ton of power but it can spin the tires for sure which is why I figured I'd try out a drag radial. I like slicks but they tend to scare people away if trying to race! The car suspension wise for adjustments include the torque arm, pan hard bar, front coil overs & rear shocks.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

For a stick shift car, a bias ply (slick) is optimal because it absorbs some of the harshness of the launch and shifts. A radial can be made to work, but it will take more effort. What kind of shocks do you have? Is it a full length torque arm? Is it still mounted to the tailshaft or is it on the crossmember? Is the car still stock height? The torque arm and panhard bar adjustments that are built in will not do anything for traction, they are for correcting geometry for a lowered car. To better help I will need to know how the car is doing when being launched as it sits now

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah next year I may be moving to a slick set up but for the time being I will be sticking with the drag radial. I have QA1 Coilovers (Front), QA1 Rear Adjustable Shocks, UMI Crossmember Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm, UMI Adjustable Panhard Bar, car is Stock Ride Height. I would like to drop the front end a bit though for aesthetics.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Are your QA1 shocks single or double adjustable? Out of the adjustable parts you listed really only the front and rear shocks will make a big difference with hooking. The torque arm adjustment just ensures that you have minimal driveline vibrations and the panhard rod centers the rear end up under the car.

Do you have any other suspension mods besides the QA1 shocks, panhard rod, and torque arm?

Sladester2

iTrader: (1)

get the bias ply ET streets instead of the drag radials

Chris25

iTrader: (1)

I have the ET streets to and love them.

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Really the only other things I have that I don't think I mentioned is a 22mm Rear Sway Bar with Sway Bar Links. I also have a Strange S60 Rear End in the vehicle if that may make a difference in any way due to added weight. The vehicle also has welded in Hotchkis Subframe Connectors & a UMI Front Strut Tower Bar.

Anyone have experience with the MT ET Street 315/35/R17? I have a set up of 17x11 wheels that I could use with that set up of tire. I just know that's a small sidewall & might not provide much flex.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

So that's the key for an m6 f car pulling front tire and leaving like it got rearended by an amtrak train?

ROC1ROB

iTrader: (1)

Missed a part.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

6 Speed cars are a completely different animal. All of the suspension reaction is much harsher and quicker than that of an automatic car, so the suspension setup is more critical on these cars. Primarily shock valving. This is why we always recommend a double adjustable shock on the rear of a stick car. The automatic cars have the cushion of the converter to hit the tires and gradually apply load. With a stick it all hits at once, and what tends to happen is it will load the suspension really hard on the initial hit, but the shock valving will quickly try to pop the back end back up, which usually unloads the tires and results in wheel spin. The key with a stick car is to get that initial weight transfer and have it gradually unload so it keeps the tires loaded as long as possible.

Also, I haven't seen any mention of relocation brackets. Those will go a long way towards getting the car to hook as well. They promote anti-squat which will keep the tires planted as well

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Extremely helpful! Thank you. I do have rear lower control arm relocation brackets on my vehicle as well. Any insight on Springs or Ride Height by chance?

farmington

iTrader: (14)

Have you played with tire pressure yet? Most DR's like 18-20psi for best hook

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Ride Height has some affect on suspension setup, but only if changing ride height on an existing setup. If you are setting up an already lowered car then the process is the same as one that is stock height. It basically just changes the positions that the lower control arms and the torque arm need to be in to get your instant center position correct.
As far as spring rate, that is where many people get lost and get into the "bigger is better" mentality and tend to put much too stiff of a spring in the rear. While the idea of this is to keep pressure on the tires and prevent excessive squatting, suspension geometry will do the same thing more effectively. Too stiff of a spring will not let the suspension react to put all the geometry and components to use and often just results in uncontrollable spinning.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

A note to add on springs, we have several cars running well into the single digits on our 1.25" lowering springs. It's all about balance

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

Nice. I'd like to be there...

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Well just an update if anyone was wondering. Car is dead hooking how I have it set up but it seems to be falling on it's face after it gets out of the whole. A bit of playing I am going to have to do with the launching factor & the clutch but that will all play out with some more testing time. I will be trying to increase air pressure in the tires though to see if I can get a bit more MPH trap at the end of the 1/4. Thanks for all the helpful info!

bwy23

iTrader: (19)

60 ft times? Vested here!!