JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Do I have air in the ABS unit? I have the 4-channel ABS/TCS and I replaced all 6 lines on my car and bled the brakes. Went through about 1.5 liters of fluid and everything is clear with no bubbles. But I can't get that rock solid pedal. I would expect the first press of the brakes to have travel but on the second or third for it to become rock solid with the car off. That doesn't happen.

What can I do?

I've read about spinning the wheels and slamming on the brakes with the ignition turned to on (but without the car running?) and having ABS engage to open the solenoid. Or I can take it for a test drive and panic stop to engage the ABS.

Any ideas? Would like to get the ABS sorted before visiting my tuner in the next week or so as he will do tuning on the highway before strapping it to the dyno. I don't want that to be a crazy drive.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This is exactly why I hated having ABS. Once you broke the system it seemed impossible to get the firm pedal back. My only successful way was to drive the car (sometimes for several random trips), do some heavy braking periodically, then go back and re-bleed. Such a pain in the butt....

camarokid91

I just went through this. I actuated the ABS and bleed the hell out of it. I just replaced my booster and master cylinder and already the pedal feels way better and I have even bleed the brakes yet. I am getting a tech II bleed this afternoon as we speak just to make sure.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Guess that's what I'll be doing then. Ugh.

camarokid91

The booster is a PITA to get out btw.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Last time I was successful in getting my firm pedal back it took 3 complete bleeds. This most recent time I did ABS delete before I restored it.....just too frustrating. One of my pet peeves is doing things repeatedly.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Sigh, me too. Especially something as tedious as brake bleeding.

Is this something like a Pep Boys/Firestone could do? Do they have the ability to command the ABS block? Although, I don't want them touching my wheels.

In other news, the shitty G2 paint on my calipers flaked when the wheel hit them. Luckily, their warranty means they will send me a new kit. Sigh.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

I checked my Snap On Solus Ultra this morning, there is indeed ABS options. Some vehicles I have had luck with this option and was able to cycle the ABS block. I don't have my stock computer system now, though; so I couldn't go any further in without communicating to see what options it allowed.

Call any of your local repair shops, they should have a scanner similar and might be able to help you out on the cheap.


Or, delete the damn thing and live life.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I may just do that. I'm not sure the ABS/TCS will work with aftermarket rears?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Did you bench bleed the MC? Check all your connections to make sure there are no leak points. If the ABS has not been cycled since you drained the system, then the valves will be in their home position and easy to bleed.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I did not bench bleed the MC as the system was never run empty. No leaks from what I can tell. And the ABS has not been cycled.

SteelCityYaga

A buddy and I figured out that the block will self actuate if you get both front wheels off the ground and alternately spin the front tires with the key on. I'd get the driver's side spinning as fast as I could and then run around to spin the passenger side. As soon as the passenger side started moving the cpu cycles all the abs valves, so if you're bleeding one of the rear lines while they cycle it'll suck the air right out. Note, when you finally drive your car the Brake Light and ABS light will be on, after driving about 50 yards they should turn off.

I had the same issue after taking off my calipers to paint them, I basically ran 2 or more quarts of brake fluid per corner while cycling the ABS block.

If your pedal isn't stiff like before you have bubbles somewhere. Just keep manually bleeding the line. Buy a gallon or two of cheap fluid and have your wife play games on her ipad for 3 hours while your bleeding the brakes...that's what I did.

Good Luck!

camarokid91

Get motive bleeder and pressurize the system put the rear on jackstand and put the car in second and open the bleeders. Should cycle the abs with the bleed valves open and the motive will keep pushing fluid out.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

You said you replaced all 6 lines on the car. Does this include the two lines between the MC and ABS block? If so, you need to bench bleed the MC.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

No. The 6 rubber lines... at the wheels and the two from the body to the axle. I have a 4-channel ABS/TCS on the car.

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

as stated above most likely have air in the abs block. I put all new lines in a Silverado. I gravity bleed the whole system, manually bleed the master, manually bleed each hose connection, bleed at the calipers manually, preform a service bleed with the scanner, and then bleed at the calipers again manually. Took about 1/2hr