BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I posted awhile back about this issue but didn't get any solutions or ideas to solve issue. The car squats way to much under boost and the tires rub pretty bad. Passenger side more than drivers.

Iron block with front mount turbo setup. So heavy in the front.

Suspension:
Koni adjustable shocks
Strano springs
adjustable LCAs
LCA relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar
subframe connectors
6pt bolt in cage
stock torque arm
NO front sway bar
stock rear sway bar

I have the LCAs in the bottom hole of my relocation brackets. The LCAs are pretty much level with a degree or two in my advantage(rear of arm lower). The bottom hole where i have my LCA is 3" lower than the factory bolt hole. If there is a LCA bracket that allows me go another inch or so that would be nice. I've saw cars launch wheels up and their cars don't squat. How is mine squatting when I roll into it in 2nd or 3rd gear? Should I ditch the koni shocks and strano springs? Buy a anti-roll bar? I've almost destroyed my passenger tire testing different adjustments on my shocks. I put my stock rear springs back in but it just looks stupid as hell. Runnnig out of ideas. I don't know how i'm going to launch this car at the track if i'm rubbing on the street. My fenders are rolled! Any help is appreciated.

Top of fender well to the tire measurement.



Here's my LCA angle.


Aaaaand this BS

LFSADRG

iTrader: (1)

I would say a stiffer spring/shock. One way to get around replacing the spring/shock setup is using airbags in the coil springs. Fill with air when needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/air-60797

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

from what I understand the tire should separate from the body, not squat. An air bag would only prevent squat, it would not induce separation.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

You need to tighten up the rear shocks, so they are not so soft on the compression. Koni's are not ideal for drag racing, but they can work ok for a double duty car.
In addition, you can increase anti-squat by using a relocation crossmember for your torque arm mount. Going to a lower mounting position on the front of the torque arm with induce more anti squat. This will hit the tires harder and place leverage upwards on the back of the car to keep it from compressing the suspension so far.

What we always want to see is the wheel gap remain the same on launch. No squat, or separation. This way all of the suspension momentum is transferred into forward motion.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

You're missing a few pieces of the puzzle to get you where you need to be. We have seen this scenario several times and the proven combination of correct suspension parts and the right tuning will cure the problem.

Give us a call and we will be glad to help you out in selecting the right parts and the best prices along with it!

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

But what does that do for the rest of the people on the forum that are looking for answers? Should everyone just call you instead of you posting a recommendation? Or is this a classifieds section?

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

Take those rear shocks and make sure they are dialed all the way to full stiff, that's be the first thing I'd check if it was squatting that much

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

The squatting or separating of the rear suspension is not affected by shock adjustment or spring rates. The suspension geometry is what makes it squat or separate. The springs just hold the car up, and the shocks help the suspension hold the tire to the ground. What I am curious about in the OP's case is if the car is twisting, or if it's actually squatting?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I agree with the #6 post response,BUT MWC has good 'stuff' AND they are a LS1tech sponsor.
I set my QA1 rear double adjustables to 24(maximum stiffness) for the compression and 0(no internal resistance for extending) for rebound. The 24 prevents any squat and the 0 allows the LCA relo to push up.
I did some relo fabbing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...n-extreme.html

JD_AMG

No front swaybar + stock rear swaybar = lots of weight transfer to the rear which will compress the rear suspension.
You are on road race/autox shocks/springs that are made specifically for handling and control. You probably want some drag oriented setup, although you will be greatly sacrificing handling, control, feel and ride quality.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

I beg to differ. Although I get your point, a properly set up rear suspension is better at controlling squat and transfering weight better, if you set a drag shock on full soft on the rear and then set it to full stiff (or at least to a better controlling stiffer setting) the stiffer setting will beat the full soft setting for your 60' easily assuming you launch without spinning your tires.

I've had blown rear shocks where I would go from a stop sign and the rear of my car would oscillate up and down not controlling anything. Then I've ridden in a car with the HH mod along with Strange adjustables in the rear set near full stiff and it launched hard and it kept the rear steady and kept it from "squatting"

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

BlkBird2000,

I recommend upgrading Your rear sway bar to a performance sway bar, better yet with the HP a turbo can make an anti-roll bar.

It doesen't matter to Me who You purchase it from...or borrow it if available, just try it.

After that post back with the results for additional help.
Carl

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

The car does twist in addition to squatting. The drivers side tire will rub if I launch hard enough. But the passenger side tire rubs the most.

I have the koni 4/4 shocks. Rear shocks only have rebound adjustability. I would need to purchase the koni DA shocks in order to have compression adjustments.

94FBIRD

iTrader: (5)

A short torque arm fixed my squat. Before and after video showed the tire gap remaining the same after the TA. Air bag in passenger spring fixed the twist. Stock rear swaybar.

SuperSport01

As cheap as airlift drag bags are I would give them a try first. If they don't help then start buying and changing hard parts.

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

You beg to differ? A "properly" set up suspension doesn't "control" squat. It either creates squat, or separation (anti squat). The manipulation of that is in the suspension geometry, not shock adjustments. There's a difference between suspension bounce, and a force that drives the suspension into or away from the body. You're talking about something totally different.

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

I would start with a really big rear sway bar if it's street driven, or an anti-roll bar if it's a track car, and go from there. You could put an air bag in the right rear spring, but that's a band aid and can cause other issues like unloading the suspension after it settles. I would use that as a last resort if you're not able to get a good sway bar or anti-roll bar. After you get the car from twisting, and if it still squats, I would work on either lowering the rear of the lower control arms in 1/4" increments, or dropping the front of the torque arm. Again, "stiffer" rear shocks is not the answer.

SuperSport01

^^^ Exactly stiffer shocks just slow the rate of suspension squat.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

I think I need someone to define to me "squat." I've been viewing this all wrong and need someone to set me straight.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

What offset are the wheels? A 315 is a wide tire? Are you sure the rear is centered? Stock 19mm rear swaybar? Does the car have bump stops?

I think the problem is the wheel offset. You can see it sits flush with the outside of the quarter panel. An anti-roll bar is probably the only thing that is going to help the right side. But that will not keep it from hitting if both sides are rubbing.

Regardless the car needs more anti squat. And a 3rd gen rear sway bar will work. I have a 25mm one I am getting ready to pull off with urethane bushings and preloaded to prevent twisting to the right. Pulling it off to move to a BMR extreme. Mine was twisting severly at the track as yours is. But if both tires are rubbing the wheels have to much offset to clear the wheel opening. A longer relocation bracket is needed as well.