rdd014camaro

iTrader: (8)

No its a brakenetic rotor

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

I am having the hubs turned instead of boring the rotor

Phoenix64

iTrader: (3)

What wheels are you going to run?

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

18X10 RTS with a high pad. Pretty much the "sti killer set up" just not using z06 rotors

Phoenix64

iTrader: (3)

Nice looking wheels, what size toyo R888's are those?
I just bought a new set in 295/315. Had 285 square before.
If you cut down the hub how are you going to center those wheels?

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

the wheel are lug centric from everyone i talked to, just finished installing the wheels and brakes last night. The machinist couldn't turn the hubs anyway without disassembling the bearing with sensor and he was to afraid of damaging it so we had the rotors bored to fit the camaro hub. But the wheel hub is much larger then our hubs

running a 275/315 combo

if you zoom can see the picture below you can see the center of the hub completely and this was a brand new untouched hub assembly

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Just got my spyders! Not doing big brakes for a while but I'm psyched to finally have the option since these have 40mm offset and should clear the 6-piston calipers just like the 4-piston ones.

rdd014camaro

iTrader: (8)

Ya I'm running the 6piston V calipers with 40mm wheels with plenty of room

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

He had to enlarge the hub bore at a machine shop. Take stock rotors with you for reference and they will match the bore. Source: he PM'd me and told me.

#931

Wow I love this.just added something else to my list

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

If anyone has any questions about this just ask here. I have it subscribed and have general notes written down. Anything I dont know Blaine or rdd will!

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

is there a thread that has the parts list? maybe it could be copied here.

I wouldnt mind doing this but I'm concerned that the setup is gonna look kind odd without upgrading the back along with it

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

I'll paste the parts list in here when I get home. OneDrive decided not to update the notes file I have so I don't have the latest version on my phone.

Not upgrading the rears isn't a big deal functionally. Front brakes do most of the work when stopping. Now there is debate about brake proportioning and this is true, but our 98-02 rear brakes are good and with a good set of pads and rotors they should be strong enough to not fall out of sync with the fronts. They'll still look tiny inside your 18" wheels but that's an appearance decision.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

^ oh yeah my gripe was clearly from an appearance stand point. The look kind of tiny already, and the larger rotor is gonna fill the space up in the fronts a lot more.

I know the rear brakes are doable but they are not as easy to install. I think when I get ready to do it im gonna ditch my ABS as well since it no longer works anyway.

I agree the fronts due most of the work when braking.

It maybe something I just go for and get a slotted rotor to match my rears and just see how I feel about it in person.

Thanks for the work on this though, there is some really great info in this thread.

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Requirements
You need a 40mm offset to clear the brakes. Some examples:
OEM c6 z06 front wheels @ 18 x 9.5
OEWheels.com - c6 z06 Spyder Wheels @ 18 x 9.5
OEWheels.com - OEM Grand Sport Wheels @ 18 x 9.5
Most wheels use the 56mm offset, meaning you'd need a 15mm spacer to clear the
calipers. I bought the spyders.

Six-Piston
2009+ CTS-V six-piston calipers (#172-2521, #172-2522)
Hardware kit (x2): 18K2108X (check "Frequently Bought Together" section on Amazon)
You will need to buy 4 M14x45 2.00-pitch bolts to mount the calipers.

Four-Piston
2004-2007 CTS-V 4-piston calipers (#89047726, #89047727)
You will need 12mm Grade 8 washers to center the caliper on the rotor.
Dorman brake hose washers (#66272)

Stock, unmodified spindles on 98-02 f-bodies. If you cut them for the c5 brake upgrade,
I feel bad for you son - might as well stay with that then.
FOR 6-PISTON CALIPERS ONLY
You're going to need to drill out the bolt holes where you mount the brembos with
a 9/16" drill bit to fit the new bolts. Start with a 1/2" is recommended, then
step up to the 9/16".
DO NOT DRILL BOLT HOLES FOR 4-PISTON CALIPERS

Brake lines from flynbye.com, part #4GCTSVLines for 4-piston calipers and #4GCTSVLINES6POT
for 6-piston calipers. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ONES FOR THE RIGHT # OF PISTONS. They are
different.

Line wrench set. You should have these for whenever you're removing/adding brake lines. The
stock flare nut is 12mm. The CTS-V caliper's flare nut is ?mm.

For 4-piston: 2006+ Corvette C6 Z06 Rotors (#19121787)
For 6-piston: 14.6" 2009+ CTS-V rotors bored to fit f-body hubs.
Take the new rotors to a machine shop with some of your current rotors and have them match the bore.
This shouldn't cost more than $25 per rotor or so, and shouldn't take very long.

Brake Pads. Not gonna have the discussion here on which ones you should buy.



Questions
Can I keep ABS?
Yup.

Will (x) wheel clear?
If it has a 40mm offset, probably. But wheel padding is really the determining factor. It depends
on the wheel, and you should be prepared to run a spacer just in case - unless you just want to
play it safe and buy one of the wheels specified above. Nothing is wrong with spacers, though
if you have wide tires they may cause clearance issues - I personally wouldn't know.

Are the 6-pistons really much better than the 4-pistons?
There's a lot of debate about this. The stock LS1 brakes work fine. The 4-piston CTS-V brakes work
great. If you're looking to save money, do the 4-piston upgrade if you can find the calipers. The
process is pretty much the same but you skip the drilling of the bolt holes and of
course use different brake lines.

Do I bleed these after installing?
Yes. To make life easier, gravity bleed them. Once everything is hooked up, open the inboard
front caliper bleeder valve on the passenger's side of the car, make sure master cylinder is
topped off, and wait for fluid to come out of the valve. Once fluid comes out a little, close
the valve, then wipe the brake fluid off of the caliper quickly before it destroys their paint.
Brake fluid eats paint. Do not let it sit on painted surfaces. I think this is a great time to
use brakekleen. Repeat for the outer valve on the passenger's side, then the inner on the driver's
side, then the outer on the driver's side. Keep checking the master cylinder and topping it off
with brake fluid as needed.



Thanks to - blaine123, rdd014camaro - they both did this upgrade and happily answered my questions via messages on
here.



Helpful Threads
Four-Piston
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ll-w-pics.html

Six-Piston
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-calipers.html

rdd014camaro

iTrader: (8)

I did the rears on mine. Abs still works. Been through some hard track days and no issues yet.

rdd014camaro

iTrader: (8)

Nice work Joey. Here's some gmpart#s for the caliper bolts and rotor screw. Had to cut down the caliper bolts though because they were to long. I used the rotor screw to make sure the rotor stayed center since the camaro lugs are smaller diameter than ctsv lugs. Had to make a tap for it.

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

I still have to my rears looks great !

2001WS6-DJP

Flash's ws6 has 4 piston v brakes with 17" wheels with no spacer or grinding needed

Joeyofblades

iTrader: (2)

Thanks rdd. I will try to find a bolt that works without needing to cut it. As for the rotor screw... Is this necessary? I'll ask Blaine if he used it on his. No experience creating taps so id prefer to avoid it.