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My $40 abs delete d.i.y

Old 01-21-2015, 07:38 AM
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Default My $40 abs delete d.i.y

So like most on here..my abs has to go seeing im running 2 different height tires and skinnies up front..smj wants crazy money,i dont need a line lock but if i did it would only cost another $50 to put one in.

To start you dont need new lines if your stockers are good..You just use your lines from the master to the abs block its self and the lines from the rear to the engine bay and k member to abs block lines..This way you dont have to do a bubble flare for the master cylinder metric fittings or mess with them..Your stock lines coming off the master are 1/4 for the rear brakes which is the forward port on your master and then the rear port is for your front brakes and is a 3/16 line.

I got my self a proportioning valve off ebay for $25 shipped,I know people who have used these with no issues.So on the pp valve i got it came with two male 3/16" to female 3/16" fittings.So to use this with the stock rear 1/4" line coming off the master you will need a 3/16" male to a 1/4" female adapter..Now pull your line off your abs block for the rear and cut the end off the stock line that went into the abs block,Figure out where you want to put your PP valve and bend up the line,Stick your 1/4 tube nut on the line then do your flare and attach the line to your in side of your pp valve..Now trace your rear line coming from the back of the car to the abs block,Cut the end off at the abs block and make your bend to go into the out side of your pp valve..this line coming from the back to the engine bay is 3/16" so all you need is to then slide a tube nut on do your flare and attach to the pp valve if your car is a 3 channel..If your car is a 4 channel deal you need a 3/16" T that you will run both the lines coming from the rear to the engine bay into the T and then the one line going up to your pp valve..you might need a piece of 3/16 tube for this depending on where your pp valve is going.


Now for the Front brakes you will need a 3/16" T and three 3/16" tube nuts total.Again you will use the stock line from the master to the abs block,cut the end going into the abs block off,this line is 3/16" in size,now cut the bottom lines from the k member to the abs block off at the abs block these lines are also 3/16" in size now make your bends in the lines so it all can match up,then slide tube nuts on,Do your flares and attach all 3 lines into the T block..Now bleed your brakes and your done..thats it


This is all i needed to do mine and cost me $40 with a drink haha




Pic of studderin setup because i copied where he put his pp valve at and my phone was dead

Old 01-21-2015, 07:43 AM
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Looking sweet! Thanks for sharing that.
Old 01-22-2015, 09:36 AM
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Nice. Here's another for those that may be interested.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...bs-delete.html
Old 01-23-2015, 04:59 AM
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yeah i seen yours a while back..it blows my mind how some places want so much for the stuff and yet everything you need is already their..all you have to do is cut the lines at the abs block,slide some tube nuts on,flare the ends and connect the 2 sections.
Old 01-24-2015, 07:17 PM
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Buddy of mine and I literally just did this today... he had the SJM kit, let me tell u WHAT A PAIN IN THE *** kit it is! Had to change a few things. 4 hours later it was done! I like both ways listed to D-I-Y it. I'll b taking that approach myself, but don't know if I wanna cut my lines... my car is 3 channel.
Old 01-25-2015, 07:31 AM
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im sure if some one took time at figuring out what size fittings are in the abs block they could just buy some adapter/union fittings and just connect them all up..ive always had a issue getting the damn line out the abs blocks so i just hit them with a cut off wheel instead..i paid less then 15$ for the fittings above and got a coke..haha
Old 01-25-2015, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by suicidal racing
im sure if some one took time at figuring out what size fittings are in the abs block they could just buy some adapter/union fittings and just connect them all up..ive always had a issue getting the damn line out the abs blocks so i just hit them with a cut off wheel instead..i paid less then 15$ for the fittings above and got a coke..haha

Suprisingly my lines came off the abs block ez... Probably cuz it's a low mile, stored every winter car. I just want to take off the entire diver side exhaust, alt, Ps & steer shaft to gain room... I'm sure I can bend the stock lines w/ ss braids ez.
Old 02-19-2015, 10:42 AM
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I will be doing a similar DIY abs delete on my Firebird soon. My abs block leaks like crazy!!! What tubing bender and flare tool did you use. I don't want to buy one, but the autozone loaner flaring tool looks cheap and I have read that they are not good.
Old 03-02-2015, 03:45 PM
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Do all proportioning valves have the same fittings? If not can u post part number or seller id for quicker reference. Thanks.
Old 03-07-2015, 10:55 PM
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So your running yours without a line lock?
Old 03-10-2015, 04:27 PM
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you dont need to run a line lock..but if you want one its a easy thing to add into the system..

just put it in line before the 2 going to the front brakes then wire it up..
Old 04-22-2016, 12:23 PM
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So for the rear lines, 4 channle, do I need a 1/4 t-block and fittings?
Old 01-26-2021, 04:42 PM
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can you post a picture of the back partfor the back line!


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