blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting ready to start pulling together parts for my suspension since my MWC rear is almost here.

Car duties: weekend cruiser with 49% street 49% auto-x and 2% strip.

Game plan:
-Koni 4/4
-Strano Springs
-Strano sways
-MWC with Watt's link

Now to the question at hand: I was planning on replacing all of the bushings on my front a-arms/control arms with Moog parts since the stock ones have 140k on them. Then I figured maybe I should just get some tubular parts, they look pretty and come with new bushings anyways. Has anyone had any durability issues with the tubular parts? Or any reasons to stay away from them? I'm not worried about changing classes in Auto-x if I get totally fed up with not being competitive I'll go buy a stock miata. I have no brand loyalty for these parts either, UMI, PA, BMR or MWC are all good in my book.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

What you want to do is stay far away from poly stuff and get a good quality heim joints like what we offer with all our products. They will out preform and out live poly/rubber joints.

Not to mention we give price breaks to all our rear end customers on future suspension orders.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

We have a few options for you as well. We offer a boxed heavy duty lower A-Arm that includes Roto-joints or Rod ends. For the street duty/auto-x situation I would recommend Roto. For the "tubular" rather than boxed, we also have them fully adjustable with Roto-Joints, or you can use one end with a Delrin bushing.

Let me know if you have any further questions!

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

For the lowers I would recommend the new moog problem solver bushings in the stock arms, or stock arms with global west spherical bearings (welding required).
For upper arms I would recommend stockers loaded with the old strano offset solid bushings if you can find them used, or global west tubular uppers with delrin bushings for a car set up to handle. In my opinion, adjustable arms in the front are pointless, as you have to remove them every time to adjust, then re-align the car. If you need more caster/camber adjustment, just elongate the slots in the k-member. Quick and easy, then you just align the car as you normally would.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I did stock front arms rebuilt with Moog bushings and did the 3-piece poly rear control arms from Founders because it was only like 40 bucks more then replacing the bushings and I didn't have to fight the old ones out (I paid a shop to do the fronts while they did shocks, springs and ball joints as part of my COMPLETE suspension rebuild).

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

Gonna hijack your thread here, but speaking of just the front suspension, the lower bushings have most of the load I think and wear out quicker than the top? I'm going to be redoing my front suspension probably late August and doing my research now to avoid dumb mistakes when I do it. Do the upper bushings ever get worn to the point where you should replace them or are they fairly set and don't wear out as much as the lowers?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Everything wears out over time but granted some items faster than others for obvious reasons. I would like to point out the mention of slotting front suspension items to get alignment. The downfall of slotted holes is it can move from it's original position, that's what makes the adjustable uppers or lowers worth it even though they have to be removed to get adjustment out of them.

Heyfred

iTrader: (10)

This^^^^^^

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Well, instead of having to shop place to place for your components, and if you are looking for good streetable parts why not get them all from the same place? we offer all the same components you mentioned. Give me a call and I can give you a price on a package deal for everything. There are no issues running Poly bushings on a street/mild track car. You just gotta know what you are doing and use the proper preventative maintenance. As far as durability, I have an arm sitting by my desk right now that is about 7-8 years old, and still good to go.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Poly on the upper arms is fine given one movement direction. Same with the camber bushing on the lower arm. However, I would never put a normal poly bushing on the caster bushing on the arm because the axis of movement is perpendicular to the bushing. That one needs either rubber that allows for that kind of deflection, or a ball shaped bushing.

I just kept my stock arms on my car and put all Moog bushings in them. The uppers weren't bad, lowers were pretty beat up (especially that caster bushing). Moog didn't have their new style bushing when I did mine, just the stock style bushing type. Oh well.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Definitely never put poly on the vertical bushing no matter what route you decide to take!

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

I bought these and installed them about a year ago..



Well I installed the right side.. left side vertical bolt would not get itself unwedged from the old a arm bushing. I had no air tools and a hammer wasn't working, so I had a shop do the drivers side.

I needed ball joints and a arm bushings anyway. I figured why not, they look good (my stockers were rusted to hell), they're adjustable, and I'm sure they're lighter and probably stronger.

So far I can't complain. They're not as noisy as i was expecting. They're spohn a arms, I plan on getting the uppers soon as well.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

That is why we only sell them this way

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

For street and autocrossing, do not buy the light weight tubular units. I broke a set of brand name chrome moly units. I use the UMI boxed road race ones now. Stock of RR.

If you are a drag racer and only run skinnies and never see high g force loads. The light weight units should be ok.

I got lucky, mine broke at low speed. It could have totaled my car.

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

That's kind of a scary thought, mine aren't even the chromoly ones, mine are the steel ones. Think they'll hold up to DD and occasional strip runs?

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

If it is street use with no road course and autocrossing, you are likely fine. Drag racing is not hard on them.

The stock units are the strongest. The UMI road race units would be next in IMO.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I agree with this, for a true driver type car Id replace the bushings in the stock arms. Not worth the headache of aftermarket units on a car that sees a lot of street time.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

This is the feedback I was looking for. I want them because it's cool to say I have tubular suspension parts. But at the same time I want this car to hold up on a few road trips. I'm thinking I'll stick with the stock upper with the strano recommended offset ball joint. And either stock lowers with Moog parts or the UMI boxed arms. I've seen a few reviews that the moog joints didn't fit correctly so that is really my only concern.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

FWIW my Moogs fit perfectly fine. Moog's ball joints are a bit oversized to account for bore stretch from replacing the parts so they can be a bit tough to get pressed in sometimes, but the fit is OK.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

This was my understanding. TBH I'd expect that I have some bore stretch, everything else I've replaced on the car this far has been on it's last legs haha.