Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Alright well i've been trying to find the gremlin in my brake system. The car is 1999 Hugger Z28 M6. In order for me to get the brakes to grab the rotors i have to pump them a few times while driving before coming to a stop. I have bled the brake system enough times to ensure that no air has entered the system. Started at the rear passanger and worked all the way up to the drivers side. even doing the ABS trick by spinning the wheel of 5mph.

I have pulled off the hose from the booster thats connected to the intake manifold to see if pressure is being built up and it'll make a sharp whistle upon removal. The intake is a FAST 102mm and the line leading to the back of the intake is secure.

What could be left? Have the calipers gone bad? internal leak in the master cylinder? Bad brake booster?

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

How much manifold vac? Booster needs something like -11" to work properly. Verify the booster line check valve is still working.

Valve stuck OPEN can cause booster to go bad.

Are you losing fluid? Boosters I've replaced had a bad internal seal, the booster sucked fluid through into whatever is inside those things. Honestly don't know what's inside or how it works.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

I have a TA that I'm using as reference, I pulled the master cylinder off both cars and push the brake pedal down to move the push pin that hit the master cylinder and with the TA it popped right out, the camaro on the other hand took a few pumps, which leads me to believe the source of the problem.

RidetechJosh

This is what came to my mind. Any luck when you took the booster off?

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

You have a leak somewhere. If you lost power assist you would have a brick pedal, pumping or not. If you have to pump to stop the car, there must be a leaking caliper or an internal leak in the master.

bgw70

iTrader: (1)

Agree, if you are not replacing fluid, you most likely have a bad MC.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

I'm putting the MC and the Booster from the TA onto the Camaro and going to bleed the brake system again to see if that remedies the problem. If it doesn't i'll take off the entire braking system of the TA since I knew that it worked up until the sleeve in the motor cracked.

Upon removing the MC from the Camaro there was a metal clip that looked like it wasn't set in correctly as when I compared it to the TA one it was hardly showing. I pushed both pistons on the MC's from both cars and brake fluid shot out on each with ease. Maybe the one of the Camaro has a internal leak? The car doesn't lose fluid and there isn't any visible fluid dripping from any of the calipers.

95wannabe

iTrader: (20)

if you still have the MC off the Camaro, block the ports and try again. You should only get a couple strokes before it hydraulically locks. Then it should only move about 1/8".
Also best way to bench bleed it.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Quick update on the progress. I swapped out the front calipers, hubs and rotors since it was relatively easy to pull out as one unit and i notice while taking off the ones from the Camaro the valve to release the pressure/fluid to bleed the system was pointed downwards while the calipers from the TA were pointed upwards.

Could the calipers go on backwards? I dont recall ever taking the calipers off and switching them. prior to rebuilding the car they have always worked and to my knowledge have always been pointed in that direction.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Some calipers CAN be installed upside down (if they're installed on the wrong side of the car), and if the bleeder screw isn't pointing "up" when the caliper is on the car, that is possibly your problem. With the bleeder screw pointing downward, air can be trapped in the caliper, giving you a soft pedal.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Interesting I wasn't aware that could be the problem. Since swapping out the parts out I haven't had the chance to bleed the system again but the pedal has already much better than previous. When i get my Trans Am up and running again i'll be sure to see if I can swap the calipers around because this wasn't even a thought in my mind that.

I appreciate all the input and help from everyone, Thanks! I'll keep updating to see if it'll remedy the brake system.

camarokid91

Did you put the fast 102 on with the ls1 bolts (instead of the rounded tops) if so i bet the manifold is cracked on the bottom, its a classic mistake.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

No i'm a fair amount of stupid but not to that extent to not use the hardware that came with the intake haha.

I bled the brakes again to day and it seems that swapping out the calipers, master cylinder and brake booster did the trick. More so the calipers, taking a educated guess that a seal went bad in one of them and was letting air in the lines. Now the car stops on a dime and i'm waiting for it to be tuned so I can drive it again.

95wannabe

iTrader: (20)

the bleeders are facing up now right?

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Correct they are, though I don't believe that it would make a difference which way they're facing because if there is no air in the lines then theoretically it should work no matter the direction. I believe that one of my calipers seal have gone bad and bleeding the brakes in the same manner fixed the problem after swapping the master, booster and calipers.