Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

So, after a very long period of time, I finally had my Watts link installed. Along with the link, I had four new bilsteins, front shock mounts and rear sway bar links also installed. Just a bit of history on the car. 2001 Firehawk #117, about five years ago, had a head/cam/LT and tune. Factory bottom end, with AI ground cam and full head job on the 241's. Ok, so even though only making 405hp/390tp at the rear wheels, that was way more power for the factory rear suspension to handle. If I floored it in 1st or even 2nd, the rear would start to get squirrely. NOT ANYMORE! This Watts link keeps that rear planted, no more fishtailing. Haven't tried it on the track yet, but I am happy with the results. At this point, I think I have done everything possible to upgrade the suspension. I recommend this product.

PS. Great customer service from Fays. First contacted Strano about a missing pair of 3 inch U-bolts and Sam pointed me to Jim and I emailed Jim and he sent them Priority mail had them in two days. Buy with confidence.

2JAWZ

iTrader: (1)

Yes I highly recommend to. Probably the best single piece of suspension out there.

ChristopherWelkin

Pics or it didn't happen!

dailydriver

The Fays 2 IS a high quality piece, but I am holding off for the UMI version, hoping that they will make some improvements over even the great Fays 2 design.

2JAWZ

iTrader: (1)

It Happened* lol

Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

Very nice! You will love it at the track, biggest improvement I noticed is that coming out of a corner you can get on the power a lot earlier without sending your *** into a wall. Mess around with the roll center adjustment holes, as I found it also improved my understeer.

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

on the highway, if going over a frost heave or just a bump, especially in the middle of a turn, the whole rear steps out. does the watts link fix that?

lsx55

I had the same problem on the bird. Quality PHR with Koni S/A fixed the problem..

2JAWZ

iTrader: (1)

I can assure it will be a definitive improvement.

ChristopherWelkin

Indeed it did, looks good!


I really wants a Watts link, but I have a laundry list of stuff I need first before I can even consider that for now

dailydriver

Yes, a Watts Link will absolutely help the mid apex 'bump steer' fault of a solid axle car, but, one must remember it is STILL a stick axle, and NOT an IRS (which will all but eliminate this phenomenon).

TAGIRL111

I'm new to upgrading and mods....until now I never had a car worth it. I have a 98 TA with all stock in the rear. I want to get a watts link but my question is, I want to beef up the suspension so do I wait until I'm done with that first? Thanks in advance!

00PewterSS

iTrader: (3)

A Watts link is a rather expensive mod so I don't think most would start with that, though it is a great mod IMO. Depends on how worn the parts on your car are and what you want to do with the car, how much money you have... a lot of factors. Most start with shocks and springs.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

It depends what you will be doing with the car (daily street? drag racing? canyons? autocross?). Since you are starting out, and my car is a daily, I will approach it from that angle.

If you can swing it, go for the Koni Sport "Yellows" (all 4) and a set of Sam Strano's 35mm/22mm antiroll bars. Your suspension will be much improved with just those two, but you could go all-in and and get Sam's full Handling Package 7 (as I did) which also lowers the car about 1.25". Be prepared that the car will be much stiffer, and the nose will scrape many driveways, but the handling will be truly rewarding. If you go this route, I suggest an adjustable panhard bar to center the axle, and you might as well replace any worn out bushings and ball joints with MOOG pieces while you are in there (don't forget rear bump stops). Wider wheels and tires in the 275mm width will also help handling a lot if you don't already have them.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

While I was the first one here to be running and selling a Watts link, and the one who had to argue how it was better (from experience gained) than any PHB, I will state right here and now that in no way would I put a watts link on a car that is subpar in other places.

Good shocks have to lead the charge. Not new shocks, GOOD shocks. Minimum Bilstein or STR.T but ideally Koni Sports or an appropriate for handling coil-over. It doesn't make sense to not deal with the worst part of the car which is the dampers first. And if you want a really great handling car, mediocre shocks aren't the ticket either.

Now, you can decide from there if you want to lower it, put sway bars on it etc. None of those are required to see a benefit from the Watts link.

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

I will second (or third) the recommendation for SHOCKS FIRST. And Koni yellow (sports) are the way to go. Even if you don't autocross, put them on, put them to the softest setting, and enjoy greatly improved handling and still a nice ride quality. FWIW I had Koni's and stock springs for many years and it was a great combo for driving and AX'ing. Turn them to full hard and then it's better for AX but IMO the street quality suffers as bumps really start to bang you around a bit more.
@TAGirl111 you shouldn't get a watts until after you've done Koni shocks and front swaybar.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Koni's do still have the mail in rebate progam going on through the 31st. Sports you get $50 back on a set. And I have front bars in stock too.

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

would Koni Steets in the rear and Sport in the front work ok???


only reason I ask is because I just installed new rear Koni Strts but I havent replaced the front shocks yet...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It would work better than STR.T front, Sport rears. You could do worse, you could do better but you absolutely could do worse. I'd try it.