shippershack

Hey Pros,
I have the Koni DA's and Strano lowering springs on my Hawk. Love the look, just as the years go on, I'm getting more bottoming out on bumpy roads whenever I have a passenger in my car. Will tightening the Konis help? Which way to turn the screw again? I set it as everyone recommended... Something left four turns...can't remember as it had been years. Any ways to lessen the bump scrape bottoming out?
Thanks

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

First, check to make sure the shocks aren't leaking an that all the shock mounts are tight, an that the rebound an compression adjusters still work.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Shocks get softer. The rubber mounts above the springs get more beaten down and I'd start with new upper mounts and rear isolators.

Shocks are dampers, not limiters. If they are not adequately damping at the current setting the car can overtravel up or down depending on what happened right before. And this will get worse with more weight in the car. So turning the shocks up might well help you out some.

But the rubber parts are definitely more beaten down than when you first did this. If they are OEM they are at BEST 14 years old now. If you replaced them with the shocks and springs they have 4 years on them. Either way they will be more "relaxed" than new stuff and that lowers the car too.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I have the same setup. Mine's doing the same thing... Regardless how much I firm up my Koni's, the car bottoms out fairly easily and I just realized the back right sits about half an inch lower than the back left. I just figured the springs were about worn out. Not sure how long I've had them on, but it's been 5 years and probably 40k miles.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

The Koni's have a lifetime warranty, correct? So basically, I shouldn't have to worry w/ replacing them... just the springs and the isolators.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Hang on a second guys.

First, shocks are dampers, not limiters. And if you are running Koni Singles you are only adjusting the rebound or extension of the shock. So turning it up won't help you from "bottoming".

Second, are the bumpstops on the rear of the car there and/or in good shape? They are what act as the limiters on the travel in these cars. Koni Sports have their own in front, but you have to have good OEM's on the rear, they are part of how the car works. If we made a rear spring stiff enough to not need them you'd not want to drive the car at all because it'd ride like crap. They add wheel rate when you touch them, and in fact are used with the taller and softer stock springs too. So if they are AWOL that's something you need to address.

Thirdly. The cars are overloaded all the time. They aren't supposed to carry more than about 500 pounds in them in total. That is everything from passengers to luggage to tools. The more weight you pound in the car the more it moves up and down, and the springs are designed for a stock weight car without huge stereo's, 3 or 4 people (unless they are really small), etc.

If you think the springs are worn you can easily swap them side to side but I think you'll find the car sits the same which eliminates that . It's rare they sit 100% level. Again, are your bumpstops there and in good shape?

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I know... I was just adding in response to the OP's thought that if you firm them up, it'll fix the issue... which doesn't work.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

And no.. my bumpstops are in horrible shape. I need new ones bad.


Sam... do you sell replacement bumpstops & isolators? I'm thinking/guessing my shocks are fine, but my springs are probably shot, as are the other components, as well.

The front seems fine though.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I have bumpstops, you need to start there. Springs are not shot, but again if you carry a lot of weight you might want some helper/air springs in there.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I weigh ~160lbs and my wife is a whopping 115lbs. That's it... and I now have a sub & amp in the back (hideaway box), but that's only been recently. Otherwise, the car is basically empty of any other stuff.

How long would you estimate your springs to last before they need replacing? I ordered mine in 2011. 5 years seems like a good while on a set of springs.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the suggestion about the air-assist... I'm looking at that and the bumpstops now.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

We're jumping the gun Dan. You said yourself the bumpstops are gone and that's part of the system. If the springs were bad they'd have yielded and sagged. I know your car isn't the same left and right but that's a common thing even on stock cars with stock springs from new. And every time I get this I have folks swap springs and there is no change meaning the low side stays the low side with the old "high" side spring swapped.

You, first and foremost, need to have good, intact bumpstops.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I'll address that issue and check from there.


What are your thoughts on the rubber/isolators being replaced? I'm almost certain they're the originals, as well.


Another question... I'm running 315's on the back. Under a hard turn, they will barely scrape. Would getting your beefed up rear sway bar possibly fix that issue since it would reduce the body roll? I already have your front sway bar. (It's also got BMR weld-on SFC & a STB)

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I ran my car with Strano springs and factory DeCarbons, and Strano springs with Konis, the rear easily bottoms out (I have nothing in the rear of the car). The only thing that seemed to help was to remove the metal bumpstop spacer which allowed like an extra .5" or so of travel. Fronts have never been an issue.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Just so we're clear what you are calling bottoming out, I call contacting the bumpstops in an abrupt manner. Bottoming out, to me, is just that. Dragging the car on the ground. The bumpstops are an active part of how this car works, with my springs or stock springs or any other spring. Periodically I have to remind folks to look at the axles on stock cars and note the shiny/clean spots on the axle from where the bumpstops touched.

This makes having bumpstops part of the system. In JB's case with a WS6, and SS's are this way too, they used a shorter more blunt/stiffer bumpstop and then an additional bumpstop spacer on top of that to make sure the "BIG 17x9's never hit the body. But he's right, those spacers cut into travel, which is why I recommend removing them. But I also recommend moving to a more progressive bumpstop like the rubber ones I carry for $20 a pair or like standard cars had stock so when you do touch them you get a softer, less sudden change in wheel rate.

Kevin97ss

Doorman has a factory style replacement available now.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I have bumpstops, nice progressive rubber ones, in stock too. Can ship with springs.

bbond105

I bought a set of your rubber bumpstops and at $20 for the pair you will be hard pressed to beat that price anywhere.