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Nothing new to report at this time. It's winter in PA. So not much to tell you.
The exhaust setup is currently a set of American Racing Headers w/high flow cats (one of many brands I carry) with a Magnaflow muffler and a dump. Not a cat-back system, but I'll be changing that in the near future. It's just too loud and obnoxious for my taste. Debating what system I'll be putting on it.
Hubs. Currently they are stock GM hubs. Those are also on the upgrade list. But I'm working on my own adapter brackets to accept the SKF Corvette Race hubs. But unlike other shops that have lots of others around, I do this stuff mostly alone so it takes some time.
Nothing new to report at this time. It's winter in PA. So not much to tell you.
The exhaust setup is currently a set of American Racing Headers w/high flow cats (one of many brands I carry) with a Magnaflow muffler and a dump. Not a cat-back system, but I'll be changing that in the near future. It's just too loud and obnoxious for my taste. Debating what system I'll be putting on it.
Hubs. Currently they are stock GM hubs. Those are also on the upgrade list. But I'm working on my own adapter brackets to accept the SKF Corvette Race hubs. But unlike other shops that have lots of others around, I do this stuff mostly alone so it takes some time.
It sounds amazing now but I understand what you mean. Have you dynoed it yet?
just watched the video and i was amazed at how many times you adjusted the mirror all while hauling ***.. lol. maybe that's something to fix during winter. good driving
It sounds amazing now but I understand what you mean. Have you dynoed it yet?
It was dyno'ed previously. I can't rightly remember what it made. It's a stock LS1 with light clutch, flywheel, damper, headers and a lid. Depends on the dyno really. My old 2001, the white one made 320 at the wheels on a Mustang, which is around 360 Dynojet-ish which I seem to recall that's where this was, roughly.
Adjusting the mirror. Yeah, the mirror needs to tightened. Any touch of the curbs would just shake it and I like to see what, if anything, is coming. Luckily that's not a lot of cars very often. Max. velocity coming into turn 1 @ summit on that day was 135.
Thinking about what's next: I have 18x11 Forgestar F14's inbound. I signed up for the NE MuscleCar challenge in August with it. I'll do UMI's event here in PA around the same time. My biggest thing is needing to decide a course of action with the power side of things.
An SCCA legal ESP class car can embarrass a lot of cars, badly. That's what my white car is/was, and the SS is now. It might be time to cut that cord and add some power so I'm not at a disadvantage when it comes to the road course and things like drag racing @ LS Fest (If I can ever make it).
I still abide by using autocross to prove the handling. Road course certainly included handling but a lot of that time is also "handling" the straights and oh boy power drops your lap time a lot. Saw it close up late this year in UMI's 2010 Camaro. Dominated 2 of 3 autocrosses, was 2nd in another. But in the same car was a few seconds back a lap from the overall winner. They added total times. I made up a lot of ground in total, finishing second overall in that event in a car with a stock LS3 and headers (no tune) to one with a Mast motor (and a lot of other stuff).
Signed up for the Optima event in NJ in late August. Leave for SCCA Solo Nationals almost immediately after. Plan is to take the Camaro SS because that's the car I want you guys to remember.
I have made a big decision on the project, and I'm going to get more aggressive with the setup than I've been able to do up to this point because of rule that would not let me add power, or change K-members, etc. Both of those things (and more) are on the list.
Looking to get some shake down time shortly, maybe at Dominion Raceway in Virginia. Haven't been there yet and if the weather is good and I get some suspension updates on (won't have more power) car should be back on track before March.
As you should know, I hope, I am a Forgestar dealer. I got my new set of wheels in for the Camaro today.
Here they are out of the box, Matte Black.
Excuse the pieces parts on the lift, working on two other projects.
And with a 315 BFG Rival S mounted up on with the Strano Performance Parts Wilwood caliper/brake kit (with lots of room to spare no spacer needed... these clear big brakes by a mile).
the Offset is proprietary, can build a set for you like mine, or like the set I did for UMI's 4th gen (Jerry's car), which are slightly different for a few technical reasons. They are 18x11" F14's in Matte Black.
Those wheels look great!! How much would a setup like that cost and how much work is needed to get them to fit (on a stock ride / 1LE spring car)?
It always surprises folks when I tell them there is next to no work involved in fitting these. Get the offset right and at worst you have very minimal rub in the most extreme instances.
Understand that we are putting on wheels that are 2" wider than the widest stock wheel that ever came on the car. And not all tires are the same actual width. Like not all 315's are the same, some are fatter than others. For instance I just looked at some and section widths varied from 11.7" to 12.6". Clearly the fatter tire on the very same wheel will take up more space and might rub something more than a smaller one.
the only way to make sure it's never an issue, ever is simply to run smaller wheels and tires.
No flaring is needed. Rear bumpstops ARE needed. DO NOT CUT THOSE OFF lest you create other issues from tire rub to over traveling shocks and breaking stuff. Never a bad idea with big tires and wheels to roll the fenders but I wouldn't say it is *required*.
The offset matters as does what you are using for your lateral location. A stock PHB or a really crooked one (like a Relocation kit on the right side only) will let the body move around more than an rod-ended bar and one that is leveled. Those still have more lateral movement than a Watts link. And that lateral movement is the body squirming left and right over the axle. So a Watts link means less chance of rubbing. And it can be a large difference. I ran tests with 11" wheels (same wheels and tires) on a PHB setup with rod-ends and a Fays2 Watts Link which is the one I use/recommend/sell. Let's just say with a PHB I needed 3/8" spacers per rear wheel on top of my built in offset to minimize rub on the inside, and the PHB had to be set asymmetrically too because of the arcing motion the body runs through with them. Watts link. Squared the car, no rub. Then removed the spacers. Still no rubbing on the inside.
The offset is the key which is the hardest thing to figure out. But I know it. And we can vary it a bit depending on what kind of mods, what tires you run (how wide) and if you have rolled or are willing to roll the fenders.
Nice work! 
01-13-2017, 05:17 PM
