New alignment tracking around on road, what settings?
#1
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New alignment tracking around on road, what settings?
I just redid my suspension and here are all the new parts that were put on it:
New lower control arms & bushings
Upper & Lower balljoints
Tie rod ends
Koni SA yellow front shocks & lowering springs
My previous alignment setting was something around -5.0 to -6.0 camber, 0 toe, 6 or so caster. This was on 275/40/17s. I'm not sure how I ended up with this, one of the techs in the frame shop just thought it was better that way the previous time it was aligned.
So after all the new parts, they aligned it closer to the factory specs, this time it is around -.1 to -1 on camber, 0 toe, 6 to 7 on caster. The other thing that changed is I now have a tall winter tire on the car, 215/60/16.
I notice they are 'tracking' all the road meaning that even when I have the wheel held straight, it wants to dip to the left or right like it is preparing for a turn. It is a bit unnerving especially during really windy conditions on the highway. I'm not sure if this is just a side-effect of a tall-standing tire or if the car is actually going to start swerving. Should I increase the camber again to like a -3.0 and see if that fixes things?
I don't want to blow through un-even tire wear like I did on the old setting by cranking the camber down to -6.0 again.
fyi these are the factory specs
camber 0.40* +/- 0.50*
caster 4.80* +/- 0.50*
total toe 0.00* +/- 0.20*
New lower control arms & bushings
Upper & Lower balljoints
Tie rod ends
Koni SA yellow front shocks & lowering springs
My previous alignment setting was something around -5.0 to -6.0 camber, 0 toe, 6 or so caster. This was on 275/40/17s. I'm not sure how I ended up with this, one of the techs in the frame shop just thought it was better that way the previous time it was aligned.
So after all the new parts, they aligned it closer to the factory specs, this time it is around -.1 to -1 on camber, 0 toe, 6 to 7 on caster. The other thing that changed is I now have a tall winter tire on the car, 215/60/16.
I notice they are 'tracking' all the road meaning that even when I have the wheel held straight, it wants to dip to the left or right like it is preparing for a turn. It is a bit unnerving especially during really windy conditions on the highway. I'm not sure if this is just a side-effect of a tall-standing tire or if the car is actually going to start swerving. Should I increase the camber again to like a -3.0 and see if that fixes things?
I don't want to blow through un-even tire wear like I did on the old setting by cranking the camber down to -6.0 again.
fyi these are the factory specs
camber 0.40* +/- 0.50*
caster 4.80* +/- 0.50*
total toe 0.00* +/- 0.20*
#4
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my car last year would dart around kinda like you describe, found my steering rack had play. with a front tire off ground and your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock on tire see if you can wiggle it. and if you can then see if you are moving the shaft in and out of the rack housing 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch. if so you need a new rack thats at least part of the problem.
#5
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How much did you lower the front end? That will happen when lowering.... basically on the rack the tech will set toe to zero. Then on the road the geometry changes so it bounces between + and - toe. When I switched to full tubular front with coilovers the geometry was off enough to require bump steer kit. That's with as much caster as possible and slightly - camber. Toe is near zero at all times now.
If possible, set toe to slightly - on level ground. When you get on the GO pedal it'll pull up to zero. When you brake it'll bring toe more negative but won't pull you unexpectedly to either direction.
If none of this applies then the tech may have left a bolt loose. That was fun when NTB did my STI alignment and left the rear driver side control arm loose. Pulled left hard enough I changed lanes in a race (luckily my car had left lane). That tire has extreme camber wear after about 100 miles. Maybe your treadwear can tell you what's going on.
If possible, set toe to slightly - on level ground. When you get on the GO pedal it'll pull up to zero. When you brake it'll bring toe more negative but won't pull you unexpectedly to either direction.
If none of this applies then the tech may have left a bolt loose. That was fun when NTB did my STI alignment and left the rear driver side control arm loose. Pulled left hard enough I changed lanes in a race (luckily my car had left lane). That tire has extreme camber wear after about 100 miles. Maybe your treadwear can tell you what's going on.