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Which suspension will best fit my goals? Budget friendly!

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Old 01-21-2017, 01:36 PM
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Default Which suspension will best fit my goals? Budget friendly!

Hello,

We'll the time is coming soon, I am going with a head and cam set up and my lowered ws6 won't be able to hook anymore. I currently have bilstein HD's and an eibach pro kit(installed by previous owner). I was able to pull 1.7 60 ft with a drag tire set up with bolt on running 12.1 @ 111.. It didn't transfer weight at all.. This car sits extremely low(1.8-2"), it think he even may have removed the rear spring rubber seat since I don't see one there lol. It rides like anynll tank and is horrible on Michigan roads, but it does look bad ***.

Now I'm looking to find a budget friendly set up that will be capable of pulling 1.6 60 ft at the minimum, I have all other supporting suspension. I don't want to be stock ride height and want it to be slightly lowered for handling but still be able to perform on the street and track.. I hit the track maybe 2 times a year. I have seen the 325lb front springs may be the best route for daily drivers but this car has become more of a weekend driver.

I know viking would be the best route to be able to lower all 4 corners evenly and have a ton of adjustment options, but I'm am not a 9 second car where I need that much adjustment. Just looking for different opinions for what will work best for me. Most of my info is in my signature, if any other questions need to be answered to provide more guidance let me know. All I know is what I have will not hook at all this year, and that's not an option lol. Thanks for the input!

Last edited by RollinSScamaro; 01-21-2017 at 04:04 PM.
Old 01-21-2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RollinSScamaro
Hello,
We'll the time is coming soon, I am going with a head and cam set up and my lowered ws6 won't be able to hook anymore. I currently have bilstein HD's and an eibach pro kit(installed by previous owner). I was able to pull 1.7 60 ft with a drag tire set up with bolt on running 12.1 @ 111.. It didn't transfer weight at all.. This car sits extremely low(1.8-2"), it think he even may have removed the rear spring rubber seat since I don't see one there lol. It rides like anynll tank and is horrible on Michigan roads, but it does look bad ***.

Now I'm looking to find a budget friendly set up that will be capable of pulling 1.6 60 ft at the minimum, I have all other supporting suspension. I don't want to be stock ride height and want it to be slightly lowered for handling but still be able to perform on the street and track..
Being "slightly lower" isnt going to affect handling to the point where you notice it, especially on the street. What you notice with lowering springs is the increase in spring rate that has the car cornering flatter and being more responsive. So with that being said I would honestly suggest trying to run stock springs on your current setup, its an extremely cheap route, you will get much better ride quality and you will be able to launch much better too due to the softer rate.
On top of that remove or unhook your front swaybar when you get to the dragstrip and then reattach it when you leave, that will also help weight transfer.
If you insist on being lower you could either try different springs or a drag coilover setup.

I hit the track maybe 2 times a year. I have seen the 325lb front springs may be the best route for daily drivers but this car has become more of a weekend driver.
That depends on weight and what you want out of the car, stock springs are 297lbs/in, so 325lbs/in is hardly a difference when talking about the front suspension.
Old 01-21-2017, 03:09 PM
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Great recommendation! Never thought about running stock springs with the bilsteins, that would be budget friendly for sure. I've heard of people running V6 rear springs to help squat a little better but not sure how much would be gained. Any idea how high the car sits from the ground to the fender at stock height roughly? I'm curious to measure and see how much I'd come up.. being lowered looks awesome but it sure does cause traction issues. I did remove my sway bar last time to hit the 1.7 lowered, it helped a little.
Old 01-21-2017, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RollinSScamaro
Hello,

We'll the time is coming soon, I am going with a head and cam set up and my lowered ws6 won't be able to hook anymore. I currently have bilstein HD's and an eibach pro kit(installed by previous owner). I was able to pull 1.7 60 ft with a drag tire set up with bolt on running 12.1 @ 111.. It didn't transfer weight at all.. This car sits extremely low(1.8-2"), it think he even may have removed the rear spring rubber seat since I don't see one there lol. It rides like anynll tank and is horrible on Michigan roads, but it does look bad ***.

Now I'm looking to find a budget friendly set up that will be capable of pulling 1.6 60 ft at the minimum, I have all other supporting suspension. I don't want to be stock ride height and want it to be slightly lowered for handling but still be able to perform on the street and track.. I hit the track maybe 2 times a year. I have seen the 325lb front springs may be the best route for daily drivers but this car has become more of a weekend driver.

I know viking would be the best route to be able to lower all 4 corners evenly and have a ton of adjustment options, but I'm almost not a 9 second car where I need that much adjustment. Just looking for different opinions for what will work best for me. Most of my info is in my signature, if any other questions need to be answered to provide more guidance let me know. All I know is what I have will not hook at all this year, and that's not an option lol. Thanks for the input!
Regardless of whether you go coil-over or coil springs You are going to need double adjustable shocks on the rear for the ability to adjust compression and rebound individually if you want maximum performance in a straight line application .

Depending on your budget I would look at Viking or Afco. They both have shocks and coil-overs that are drag race oriented. most drag oriented shocks are twin tube non gas charged by design, which may or may not be best for your application but they work very well for what it sounds like you are trying to accomplish.

Afco has mono tube gas charged shocks that can be custom valved for any application such as street/strip to a 1500HP trailered drag car to a street/handling application such as our UMI/Strano set-up.

You will Def. pay more $ for these but sometimes shocks are the last component that you want to skimp $$ on

Craig
Old 01-21-2017, 04:15 PM
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I would love to run vikings but not sure if I can dish out that much.. I also question if they are way more than what I need, I only plan to run 11s NA and maybe 10s with n20 in the future.. I know they are hard to beat but looking for something in between that will get the job done. I ran basic 12 way QA1 back in the day and pulled 1.6 60 ft, but not sure if that's the best route this time or not since I'll have a bit more power this time around, I was 380-400 rwhp then.. may be closet to 450 this build.. I see they are 18 way now and have double adjustable too, would they not be adequate for what I'm looking for?

Just curious what other budget set ups are working for others around 450rwhp?
Old 01-21-2017, 07:23 PM
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Not saying it's the best but worked OK for me. Rides nice on "middle" settings and cut's 1.46 60's full weight (one click from loose on front and 3 clicks from firm on the rears.

Third Gen V-6 springs in rear with some used QA1 single adjustable.
New single adjustable Strange in the front w/300# springs.
Old 01-21-2017, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
Not saying it's the best but worked OK for me. Rides nice on "middle" settings and cut's 1.46 60's full weight (one click from loose on front and 3 clicks from firm on the rears.

Third Gen V-6 springs in rear with some used QA1 single adjustable.
New single adjustable Strange in the front w/300# springs.
Sounds like it works! Thanks for sharing, I've heard of a few people using the v6 springs in the rear. Do you sit any lower with those in the rear?
Old 01-22-2017, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RollinSScamaro
Sounds like it works! Thanks for sharing, I've heard of a few people using the v6 springs in the rear. Do you sit any lower with those in the rear?
Not really, I did cut them a little (to leave the isolator in place) to obtain the stance I wanted at 26.5" at the top of the fender-well. I adjusted the front strange with the spanner wrench to end up at 26". I've heard the V6 springs worked good for drag and really it's the shock valving that does the controlling of rear.
Old 01-22-2017, 05:43 PM
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Cool, definitely some budget options available.. I actually just found a good price on some used front QA1 12 ways fully assembled with 300 lb springs. I think I'm going to give it a shot.. I was able to find some stock rear springs also..I'll probably do the heater hose mod on them to get as slight drop.. all I need now are some rear adjustable shocks if I want and I'll be set.. may try to leave the bilsteins to see if they work, but not sure. Hopefully I'll be good for 1.5-1.6 60 ft.. I have the LCAs with brackets and adjustable short torque arm installed already, so should be all I need.
Old 02-12-2017, 03:52 PM
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Well, just when I thought I had made up my mind.. while looking for rear QA1s I ran into a full set of DA vikings at a good price.. sold the front QA1'S and awaiting shipment of the vikings.. figured I'd have a matching set! Lol

If any of you are running the DA vikings, what settings have you found work best for track use and also for some more aggressive street driving? I've heard they do pretty well for handling and track use so wanted to see what everyone else's experiences are and what settings you've been using. I will have the 300 lb springs up front and stock rear springs.
Old 02-14-2017, 09:02 PM
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Let me know how you like those vikings? I want to buy the package from MWC with the front 300lb springs and keep my stock rear coils with the rear DA vikings. I didnt pull the plug yet because Im afraid it would handle like crap on the street. I already know it would be great at the strip but Im on the roads more. Just dont want it to be any worse than the factory decarbons and stock coils. Ya know what I mean? Also wanted to pick your brain about the ss4000 Yank. Can I PM u some time? thanks - Mike
Old 02-15-2017, 12:41 PM
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I have the same concerns.. but then again i am so tired of not getting any traction when i need it. I am thinking you could just crank up the settings and it will make it handle a lot better but not sure.. I will shoot you a PM about the SS4000
Old 02-16-2017, 06:38 PM
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Im in the middle of doing the suspension up in my 2001 Tranny, i splurged for the viking dual adjustable with 400#" in the front and 150#" in the back, should be on the road next week and i cant wait to see how she moves.
Old 02-17-2017, 07:32 AM
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Keep your shocks, put stock springs or a different brand of lowering spring on the car (Strano or BMR), and spend your money on a good set of LCAs (adjustable if you'll be going to a 28" tire ever), and a body mount torque arm. You'll see more gains there than you will shocks. Converter and cam selection will dictate 60' at that power level. I don't really see adjustable shocks helping much til you either A. drop 500+ lbs off the car, or B. make 500+rwhp

I have a set of slightly modified stock springs that will drop your car about an inch for sale if you're interested
Old 02-17-2017, 08:41 AM
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At this point i already have already purchased the Viking shock set up.. I already have LCA's w/ relocation brackets, adjustable panhard, Adjustable short torque arm and a 15" drag set up.. I should have everything i need to make the car hook.

I plan to do the heater hose mod in the rear and adjust the fronts accordingly.. They have 300 lb springs in the front that should be pretty equivalent to stock and the rear springs will be stock also.



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