RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Hello,

Recently made a purchase on some Vikings and new to the DA world.. Front coilovers have the 300lb springs and the rears are non-coilover. I was wondering what everyone has had luck with as far as settings.

Being that i was lowered before on Eibach springs and bilstein HD's i know it will never handle that well again, but has anyone tried cranking their vikings up and tested it out on hard cornering or road course? I don't plan to do road course, but curious how they handled and what settings you used. I will have stock springs in the rear with heater hose mod and drop the front accordingly to match the rear, so maybe a 1/2" drop? Just don't know if i can go from the 1.5-1.8" drop to nothing and feel like i'm lifted lol.

The main reason why i went with Vikings was for traction at the track. I heard they have "recommended" settings, but have seen that some tend to go away from those and go with other recommendations. What have you found works best at the track? I am mostly looking for a good starting point, but totally aware that every car is different.

All of my other mods and future mods can be found in my signature. My goal is to pull 1.5-1.6 60 ft consistently at full weight.

Thanks!

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Like we tell everyone that purchase new Viking shocks, start with the recommended provided settings from Viking and then do testing and changes from there. The reason we suggest this is because it gives a reference point to work from to better help our customers.

I know it isn't exactly what you want to hear but it is the best advice I can give you.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

This is the beauty of having the Vikings. You have a wide range of valving adjustability to work with to get the car to work how you want. Most people have 2 settings; a street setup and a track setup. It will take some experimentation to dial in what you like, as driver feel is very subjective.

For the street on a full weight car on that spring rate, I would run it around 8-10 on compression, and 10-12 on rebound.
Then for the track, 12-14 on compression and 2-3 on rebound. Again these are base numbers. Start there and play with them a little to dial in what you like to feel and take notes of what works so you can easily go back to a setting you like

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Excellent info! Since i bought the Vikings second hand i didn't receive the recommended settings so I appreciate you sharing. When you are referring to those settings is that for all 4 corners? I was expecting front and rear to have different settings, but maybe that isn't necessary?

Thanks for the info! I will plan to start with those settings. I hope others will also chime in with their experiences for both.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

If you didn't have any instructions I would take a look at what Viking suggest.

Viking Baseline Settings

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

It is also important to know what series of Vikings you have. The Warrior shocks are what most street cars run which have looser valving, so you can run higher settings to control your ride. If you have Crusader series shocks, then your numbers will be significantly lower like on the chart above. There are many many variables when dealing with shocks and ride quality. Spring rates, ride height, and like I said the most subjective being your preferred feel. I for one don't like a loose floaty feeling car which you commonly get with "drag style" shocks and soft spring rates. Going higher on valving will help firm this ride up. If you want a softer ride, then you can dial it down to a lower number. For full technical data on all series of shocks, you can go here:
http://vi-king.com/technical/


Also a quick reference to identify Warrior from Crusader series shocks, on the Viking logo, the eyes are red for the Crusaders, black for the Warriors

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Great info! It appears I have the warrior shocks but there are different series of warriors? Anyway to tell which ones I have? So, with this style shock I'm assuming it will be more of a floaty feel until I crank the shocks up a little?

I'm also in need of a new rear bolt for my rear shock .. is this something I should contact viking for directly? I am hoping to get these installed soon but still waiting on my motor from the machine shop so might be a little longer.. I'm very interested to see what kind of 60 ft times I'll pull with these..

UMI Tech

Warrior is only one valving.

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

I have the same set up as you
Here are my settings for street
Front = 5c/7r
Rear = 3c/5c

For race, I tried the settings they gave me and had all sorts of issues. Still don't have it figured out but the settings will need to be much higher than the whats shown on that list for a car less than 600hp. Mine is a 6-speed btw, so that changes things too

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Thanks for sharing this info! Thats kind of what ive been finding in searching is that people are going quite a bit away from the recommended settings to actually get it to work, which is why i created the thread. Hopefully we will get some more info from others that have theirs dialed in for cars less than 600HP.

1hotroc

Subscribed. Would love to hear about some more settings people use with these for street use and the strip with cars that are making 350-400rwhp. I’ll be trying the mentioned settings above by “no juice” for the street. The recommended Viking settings suck. Thanks

Caribe

iTrader: (1)

I just finished Viking Coilovers on a all four corners. Adjusting ride height now. For street I am starting at the front 2/6, rear 1/3 to see how that works.

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

How is it working? I still can't find a good setting for the street. I'm about ready to trash these

1hotroc

I used no juice settings but I'm still feeling the car wants to jump in the other lane when it goes over bumps . I'm feeling this mostly on parkway. I don't know what setting to go with!

Caribe

iTrader: (1)

So far so good. Fronts I am using 2c/6r, rear at 2c/4r

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

good luck getting the car to not want to float on the street. I didn't have to keep mine very long to figure out these had no business being on my car. my 2002 Taurus with 200000 mile front shocks bounced similar to these

my serious advice is if u like drag racing and are committed to running these because u drag the car enough than get used to the car never really feeling planted and avoid spirited driving. I'm talking about warrior valving

1hotroc

I do realize this is an old thread but figured I’d chime in again. This is particularly for Rollinsscamaro. You have 300 lb springs in the front like me. The lower settings weren’t working out for me. I use 10c 12r on the front and 4c 6r on rear . Went with the advice of the guy from BMR 👌🙂. I personally feel better handling and control with these settings .

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Thanks for adding this info! I actually havent tried going that high on the front, but its worth a try for sure. How much power are you putting down and what kind of 60ft and 1/4 times you getting with those settings?

My best run i believe i was running the following settings or something very close:
Front 15c 0R
Rear 16c 7R
11.16 @ 120.9 w/ 1.56 60 ft.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Settings are going to depend on tire pressure, car weight, etc. Lots of variables.

1hotroc

I'm sorry I wasn't specific on track or street settings. Those settings I mentioned were for the street only. For the drag strip I use the recommended ones from Viking which are also similar to yours . I'm just really trying to find a good setting for all around street and handling front and back. So others with #300 front springs and stock rear coils with heater hose mod please chime in and tell me what you think? Its not easy to dial in that German sports car feeling with these Vikings but Im trying like Hell lol!