Gev

I wanted these specs:

-1.3* camber
4.5* caster
1/32" toe

I got:

-0.6* caster
4.7* on left and 4.0* right caster
and totally fucked up toe

Im taking it back tomorrow to get the toe straightened out. The guy was having trouble getting the passenger side to -0.6 even, much less -1.3. The drivers side however went to -1.3* perfectly with 4.5* caster. However, we had to match the passenger side, so he brought it down. The passenger side adjustemnt for camber was maxed out. Im taking it back in on monday. Any ideas or tips on why the adjustments max was -0.6 on one side and almost -1.5 the other?

VIP1

I am surprised you got the right as far as -1.3* Camber. Mine is maxed out at -0.6* Camber on both sides. Most that I've seen max out less than -1* Camber with the stock suspension.

Here are my current specs:
CAMBER: -0.6* (maxed out)
CASTER: 4.4* and 4.6* (I forget which side is which, its the closest they could get)
TOE IN: 1/32 inch

What kind of alignment system was used? A Hunter laser system is more acurate than the older systems.

Fierce-LS1

iTrader: (3)

that sucks to hear Gev.

Gev

Well, I was out driving for a while and I think I like it. A little more responsive than before. I just need to take it back to get the toe and caster fixed.

ZR2877

I will be getting a alignment soon. My car is not lowered and I am getting new shocks put on. Factory replacements. I am running 17" SS wheels with 275/40/17 tires. Are these the specs I should take to them and tell them this is what I want. Thanks

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

I took mine to Lee tire in Riverdale...Harold had no problem with my full BMR front suspension...plus lowering. I asked for stock specs. This was on a car that had been previously totalled.....I am very pleased

Gev

It's not that I'm not pleased about the alignment, I'm not pleased that they weren't able to get it to the -1.3 like many others have gotten it too. Also at the fact that on one side I was able to get more camber than the other. Anybody have any ideas on why this would be the case?

TTopJohn

Are you at stock ride height? If so, that's why they couldn't get past -.6 camber. People who can get -1.3 have either lowered their cars or replaced their upper a arms with an aftermarket piece that allows more negative camber.

But for a good street use compromise between handling and tire wear, -.6 is not bad at all. I'm running -.7, and anything from -.5 to -.7 still counts as a performance street alignment in my book.

JR HAWK 9

iTrader: (3)

I have mine alligned to:

-1.0 camber
5.3 caster
0 toe

I have an all stock SLP Bilstein suspension...I am very happy with what I was able to get the car alligned to I could have probably got even more (-) camber if I would have lowered my caster a bit, but I like a heavy steering wheel.

Paul

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I have:

-1.7 camber
1/32 total toe out
Car lowered 2" front, 2.5 rear
Stock A arms

As mentioned above, you will need to lower the car and/or get upper A-arms

Gev

the car is lower 1/75" in the front. I guess I'll just stick with what I have now. Not bad I guess.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.