JS

iTrader: (4)

Here's the setup
K-member
A-arms
Hals Front
50/50 Comp rears
Tq arm (hiem style crossmember mounted noisey)
Adj rear control arms (hiemed very noisey)
Adj panhard (hiemed noisey)

The car rides like a tank
It is made to go straight and thats it...

I'm going back to a 17in wheels setup with 275/40/17's all around.
I am also going to a quiet exhaust (hooker)
I run a single race magnum now.

So I figure the wheels and tires will help compared to the hard 15in tires and sknnies I have now.What do u guys reccommend as far as my susps.?

I was thinking
poly control arm
poly adj panhard
poly adj. tq arm (Trans mounted like stocker)
4 new decarbons
Lowering springs 3/4in max.

I think this will make the car fun again and should turn well too.
I have braided brake lines and slotted rotors so thats all dont too.
Am I on the right track?

Drag racing is no fun anymore
It eats your cash and depress's u when u dont run the number
I want a STREET 11.70 car on DR's threw the exhuast that i can drive anywhere i want w/o worry.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Is it the noise or the ride quality that bothers you the most? That probably would affect the suspension setup the most (as far as what to get). I'm interested to see what people tell you as that is about what I would like my car to do....11's with DR, only occasionally drag raced, but completely reliable.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

poly control arm
poly adj panhard
poly adj. tq arm (Trans mounted like stocker)
4 new decarbons

Leave them as heim, better for turning vs. poly. I hated poly fwiw. Plus poly will bind in the corners. With GOOD rod-ends, there is no noise.

Skip the decarbons, go with Bilsteins revalved by Strano for your springs.

All my $.02.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

IMO, if you want a very stock-like ride you should consider the 1LE parts. Higher durometer bushings than OEM, but more forgiving than poly - plus no binding. A matched set of shocks/springs will also help.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I work for a Speed Shop so I can buy parts for cost.I had Poly before and it was MUCH BETTER for ride comfort than the hiemed parts I have now.I think thats the way I'm going along with Bilsteins or Kybs and 3/4 drop eibachs.Stock type tq arm location but adj. for pinion angle setting and a quiet exhaust.Then a set of Z06 wheels and a good set of tires and the car is back to a fast,nice riding,non noisey street car.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I would definitely not get DeCarbons; they are junk. Get Bilsteins. Keep in mind the lower profile tires will give harsher ride. I run poly bushings along with a Spohn TA, and QA1's and have finally tweaked it to where it's pretty good on the street and can still cut killer 60 fts. I honestly prefer the ride of front runners and DR's to my 18 street setup.

ZaneO

Shocks are the biggest factor in a nice ride. I would get Konis. For the rest of the suspension, I would look at rubber or poly bushings. Maybe a Magnaflow exhaust or SLP dual/dual.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I talked to Hal,I'm keeping mine.
They suggested playing with the settings until I liked my ride.

Dude I dont care what u say about the 15's/skinnies.This car rides like a tank,17's and poly bushed susp along with my Hals should do the trick.Exhaust will be dual/dual or dynomax ultra flow with my own tail pipes as I dont like the hooker tips.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Got any drag racing stuff for sale?

ZaneO

Hals really aren't ideal for a daily driver shock, but good luck with it.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

I guess I don't get the point of this thread. Is there something specific that you wanted to know? Because people have made suggestions, and you have basically told them that you are going to do stuff regardless of what they have said. So why ask? I'm just trying to understand the need to ask if you aren't listening to suggestions and already have your mind made up.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

I was kinda wondering the same thing...

JS

iTrader: (4)

Nothing wrong with getting opinions.
I talked to Hal and they reccommeded to keep them,play with the settings and thats what I'm going to do with the setup.Now a few of u agreed with me on the poly so thats what I'm going to do and just get a nice set of 17's and add a ultraflow muffler w/twin tail pipes and a good set of rear adj Hals and be done with it.

Sorry if I made my own decisions,I was sincere when asking for opinions.

ZaneO

Of course Hal is going to tell you to use and buy their stuff...that's their job as salesmen.


Good luck with your setup

JS

iTrader: (4)

True but u gotta admit an adj shock isnt exactly junk
Not to mention I can whizzer my rear springs one coil and use the spanner wrench to raise/lower the ride hieght.

ZaneO

They might be when they are intended for drag racing, not ride quality. It's your car though, so I hope if works out well for you.

Remember every time you change your ride height (front) you will need an alignment.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Just because a shock is adjustable doesn't mean it's good...... After all, there is good and bad everything. Good V-8's, shitty V-8's. Good manual transmission, crappy ones...... You get the point.

See, the thing with HAL's is this. The are not gas charged, which means the more they get worked and the warmer they get, the less effective the damping is. The oil foams when it gets warmer, gas charges act like a radiator cap. What that means is what might be great here, could not be 30 miles down the road (particularly on a hot day). Second, the "adjustment" is the most basic type you could ever hope to use on a shock. It cannot take into account the velocity of the shock's piston at all because it is not on the shock's piston. Further the adjuster only lets more or less oil into the outer shock tube, and that's not exactly precise. It's akin to opening and closing a faucet in 12 steps. You never see a "REAL" adjustable shock use that kind of adjuster.

Hopefully you can find something you like. But often what happens is simple. You get a decent ride, but crappy body motion control. Turn up the shocks to get decent control and get a choppy ride. Just not the most flexible shocks, and frankly best suited to controlling weight transfer only and not dealing with real world situations lke bumps, dips, heavy springs and so on.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

So for occasional drag racing (wanting good weight transfer) on a h/c car, that is a daily street driven vehicle, would you recommend the Koni/Bilstein setup? How are these at the track? I mean, it seems like picking the lesser of two evils--are the Hals worse on the street than the Koni's are at the track? Are the "R" series Hals or the Strange shocks any different? This is directed at Sam Strano, but if anyone wants to chime in I would like to know this. Sorry if I am hijacking the thread. Maybe you will find it useful as well.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yes, I'd recommend that, or something like it. Actually now a days we've been recommending a Koni rear as well. We found we can keep the price about the same after delivery and give you a rear shock that is adjustable as well.

The key is getting the nose to rise quickly upon launch (drag racing). I never really run Koni's less than halfway for ride or handling, which leaves you a lot of room to soften the rebound and get that rise. On full soft they are very similar to stock DeCarbon's (which rise really fast). The Koni's are not at all bad on the track, and awesome on the street. My question to you is this, what do you do more of? Drive on the track, or on the roads? Further, if you really want to facilitate weight transfer, disconnect your front swaybar at the track.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I should add, that Koni also makes a specific drag series of shock for the 4th gen. That would get you what you want at the strip and decent performance on street (not meant for lowering springs, etc).

Not many people know that Koni makes drag shocks.