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Correct lift points for my '98 Trans Am?
11-15-2005, 07:44 AM
#1
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Correct lift points for my '98 Trans Am? I know there are already a couple of threads on this site that address my question, but I want to be absolutely sure I don't bugger up my car by jacking it up! So please forgive my redundancy :p
I'm about to replace my front disc brake pads, and I would like to use my brand new Craftsman 3 1/2 ton floor jack to lift the front end and place it on the matching 3 1/2 ton jack stands. My TA's user manual contains a diagram that shows the proper placement of the car's supplied scissor jack, and I believe these points would be the right place to position the jack stands on either side of the car. I could jack up each side of the car using the same points (one at at time since I only have one jack), but I would prefer to lift the entire front end at once and place the stands.
In two similar threads, a couple of posters said that it's ok to place the floor jack's saddle beneath the center of the "K-member". What the heck is that? I've got the Hayne's manual for Camaros and Firebirds/Trans Ams '93 - '00 (an excellent manual btw). But, the section on "Jacking and Towing" refers to an illustration that doesn't appear to exist in the manual. There are pictures of the underside of the car in the front and the rear, but the jack points aren't labeled.
I'm about to replace my front disc brake pads, and I would like to use my brand new Craftsman 3 1/2 ton floor jack to lift the front end and place it on the matching 3 1/2 ton jack stands. My TA's user manual contains a diagram that shows the proper placement of the car's supplied scissor jack, and I believe these points would be the right place to position the jack stands on either side of the car. I could jack up each side of the car using the same points (one at at time since I only have one jack), but I would prefer to lift the entire front end at once and place the stands.
In two similar threads, a couple of posters said that it's ok to place the floor jack's saddle beneath the center of the "K-member". What the heck is that? I've got the Hayne's manual for Camaros and Firebirds/Trans Ams '93 - '00 (an excellent manual btw). But, the section on "Jacking and Towing" refers to an illustration that doesn't appear to exist in the manual. There are pictures of the underside of the car in the front and the rear, but the jack points aren't labeled.
11-16-2005, 10:53 PM
#2
If you jack is low enough you can jack up your front end byplacing the jack in the middle of your crossmember, i usally put a piece of wood inbtween the jack plate and the crossmember. If you car is to low roll it up on some bricks our a some wood/ramps then jack it up. Place the jack stands under the front frame rails then you can lower the jack on the stands. Not sure if you already know but go look up installuniversity.com they have some info on the jack points and also ls1howto.com shows very good install info. Take care and be safe.
11-16-2005, 11:16 PM
#3
The PITA you're probably going to discover is when you go to roll your nice new floor jack under the K member is, it's going to smack right into the air deflector. This was one reason I converted my car to a front breather eliminating the air delfector. Another reason was for improved cooling at high speeds.
11-17-2005, 01:59 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Cal
The PITA you're probably going to discover is when you go to roll your nice new floor jack under the K member is, it's going to smack right into the air deflector. This was one reason I converted my car to a front breather eliminating the air delfector. Another reason was for improved cooling at high speeds.
11-17-2005, 04:48 AM
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Thanks for your help, guys 
I emailed Haynes about the missing illustration, and within hours they provided me with diagrams that explain how to use a floor jack and stands, and other types of lift equipment as well! If I ever have to take my TA to a shop, I can hand the mechanic a printout so they don't lift the car improperly, as well as do it correctly myself.
As Cal pointed out, the air deflector is pretty low, but lucky for me, the jack just barely clears it. I had to go in at an angle from the front to reach the crossmember, so there would be enough room to work the jack handle. Then I put the jack stands under the crossmember on either side of the jack. I carefully lowered the car onto the stands, and then repositioned the jack so it was coming straight in from the front, and perfectly centered on the crossmember. This allowed me room to also change the oil and filter while the car was jacked up. Then I continued jacking the car up to the desired height, raised the jack stands to meet the crossmember, and gently settled the car onto the stands. I pumped the jack handle to the point it would almost lift the car, so that the jack would share the load with the stands.
I followed the Haynes manual step-by-step to swap out the front pads. Voila! No more squeal, and no more brake warning light on my guages
The old pads were only half worn, so I suspect something else was causing the squeal and the brake warning light to come on. So, next weekend I'm going to check the rear pads.
I had my brakes done by Midas two years and 15,000 miles ago, and by doing-it-myself this time, I discovered that they charged me for ceramic pads, but installed the cheaper metallic pads!
Midas =
Me dispensing justice upon my local Midas franchise =
I emailed Haynes about the missing illustration, and within hours they provided me with diagrams that explain how to use a floor jack and stands, and other types of lift equipment as well! If I ever have to take my TA to a shop, I can hand the mechanic a printout so they don't lift the car improperly, as well as do it correctly myself.
As Cal pointed out, the air deflector is pretty low, but lucky for me, the jack just barely clears it. I had to go in at an angle from the front to reach the crossmember, so there would be enough room to work the jack handle. Then I put the jack stands under the crossmember on either side of the jack. I carefully lowered the car onto the stands, and then repositioned the jack so it was coming straight in from the front, and perfectly centered on the crossmember. This allowed me room to also change the oil and filter while the car was jacked up. Then I continued jacking the car up to the desired height, raised the jack stands to meet the crossmember, and gently settled the car onto the stands. I pumped the jack handle to the point it would almost lift the car, so that the jack would share the load with the stands.
I followed the Haynes manual step-by-step to swap out the front pads. Voila! No more squeal, and no more brake warning light on my guages
The old pads were only half worn, so I suspect something else was causing the squeal and the brake warning light to come on. So, next weekend I'm going to check the rear pads.
I had my brakes done by Midas two years and 15,000 miles ago, and by doing-it-myself this time, I discovered that they charged me for ceramic pads, but installed the cheaper metallic pads!
Midas =
Me dispensing justice upon my local Midas franchise =
