Dogmeat

Ok, I've been browsing and reading a lot latley but I'm still kinda confused on what suspension parts do what for the cars, etc...

Anyways, here's the background: Car is a 2000 Trans Am Convertible, non-WS6....I'm not particularly happy with the way the car handles....it doesn't seem very nimble at all, it doesn't take corners very well, etc....IE, my 87 WS6 handled a lot better it felt like...

So, in essense, my goal is just to make the car handle better and feel more nimble, and if at all possible hook a little better off the line as well. Also, a note: I am not intending at all to lower the car ... it scrapes enough driving around as it is...

So far I am planning on the following:

SLP Bolt-on Vert SFC's (So far SLP is the only company I've seen that has a bolt-on SFC for a vert) ... I am not gonna pay a muffler shop to weld on the SFCs...if I can find somone in Wyoming who knows how to do it around Casper, then I will have weld-ins, but for now, I'm going with bolt-ons ... suggestions for other manufactueres welcome.

STB --- I've read a lot of conflicting views about this, some people seem to say this helps the car feel better in the corners, others say they couldn't tell where it helped. Either way it's a cheap mod, so I am planning on doing it:

Swaybars --- Can't go wrong here I don't think, but my question is how will putting bigger swaybars on effect ride quality

Shocks -- Can't decide if SLP-spec bilsteins or Stranoparts re-valved bilsteins would be better here

Torque arm -- I would like to put a torque arm on, but I'm not sure who or what I should pick. I am also curious about what exactly the "Torque Arm Relocation Brackets" do ...if somone could explain this better to me I'd appreciate it, as I'm not sure if I'd really need them or not...

Also, I have some other questions about general suspension components:

Tubular K-members .... Ok I've read the manufactueres description of this part, and my question is, is this primarily for drag-racing setups to save weight on the front end? Or, does it also in some way make the front end more rigid laterally than the stock k-member....? And if it does provide a benefit to making the car feel more nimble, is it worth the work it would take to install it?

Panhard Rod -- Ok I'm not sure why the stock peice would need to be replaced....what exactly does this peice do? It seems to me it's to keep the body of the car planted over the differential in the corners....so to make the car handle better would you all recommend this?

Lower Control Arms --- What benefit would I get from installing these?

Upper and Lower A-Arms --- I've read that the aftermarket verisions of these reduce "un sprung weight" ... what is the effect this has on the car's ability to take a corner?

Anyways basically if you guys wanna give me any ideas I'd appreciate it, let's just say you had my car and wanted to make it handle really well so it was a lot more fun to drive, what would you do?

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

My 2 Cents

SLP Bolt-on Vert SFC's -Ok As I understand them its a toss up.....you pay more for bolt in...but you have to pay to have weld in's done...

STB --- This is a controversial subject...Lou Strano will tell you that it has no real affect on the car..others will tell you it does....but it does look cool

Swaybars --- Can't go wrong here ....It will make your car tighter and more responsive to your input... Lou has those too..your 1LE set up should be pretty nice though

Shocks -- the SLP-shock set up i think are pretty good...Stranoparts re-valved bilsteins might be over kill with stock springs....maybe Sam will chime in

Torque arm -- I dunno ... you gonna be drag racing.prolly need one

Tubular K-members .... As I understand...new ones not required for a daily driver

Panhard Rod -- This piece re-centers the body of the car over the chassis..a must if lowering and using larger than stock tires and wheels but since your not..prolly dont need one..but an aftermarket one would be stronger and look nicer

Lower Control Arms --- The only reason I can think of getting some would be cuz ....an aftermarket one would be stronger and look nicer

Upper and Lower A-Arms --- I dunno....but prolly not

OldeSkool

Regular bilsteins are meant for stock springs and would be a good choice. The revalved jobs are usually used when different spring rates are used.

And you can go wrong with swaybars. It is easy (and common) to go too big on the rear. 35mm (hollow would be my choice, solid is just heavy) in the front and stock in the rear is a good starting point.

And do more research before you spend money on LCA's, A arms, panhard bars and torque arms. I say this because if you run out and buy all that neat looking, hyped up tubular stuff with polyurethane everywhere, you're may not be getting what you think. That stuff works fine for straight liners. If you're drag racing, you want to eliminate flex in order to get a good launch and those tubular jobs with poly work great and provide a decent ride on the street. But the suspension needs to be able to move freely in order for it to work properly if you plan on going for corner carving.

The best performing LCA's PHB and A-arms are those with high quality (teflon endura style) rod ends (aka sperical or heim joint). These allow much better range of motion with less bind and 0 'give' as compared to poly bushings BUT they do ride rougher.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Shocks and bars... you'll be amazed at the difference, and I'm quite sure you'll find you don't need or want many, many, MANY things on that list.

Don't have enough info here to make any solid statements. I'd have to talk to the owner of the car and get a feel for exactly what's going on that makes him feel the car is not nimble enough or handles well enough. One thing I've learned, and I hope to god others will figure out sooner or later is that "handling" is a hugely broad term and no two persons have the same idea of what it is, or what constitutes good or bad.... I have to get a feel for that first.

As for the shocks. You have other choices beyond the two you listed. I have both of those (obviously I'm involved with Strano Revalves), I'm an SLP dealer, so I have those. But there are other options. HD's might be enough for this fellow. They aren't my cup of tea, but if they are going to be here, that's cool. Koni's might be a better option (and are always the best because they are so flexible).

I'm happy to make a recommendation. But can't, actually I won't, do it online because I can't do it and do it comfortably.

RoadHazard

iTrader: (1)

I own a vert. Here's my .02

STB and SFC help the car feel more solid but I say they have nothing much to do with handling. They are good mods for a vert though.
Springs, shocks, and swaybars help with handling, so they might be what you want here.