Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Well, yesterday I finally took the task to install my UMI tunnel brace mounted T/A and LCAs and fix a couple of things on my car. I had cracked my tailshaft housing and needed to fix that. Total time for all of this was about 4hrs.
First once I got my car on the drive on lift so everything would be at ride hieght and susp. loaded. We changed out the LCAs. I got the no adjustable ones. Went in smoothly and of course, much beefier then stock. No issues there.
Second we started the taking the stock T/A out and driveshaft. That went pretty smooth itself. Have plenty of experience doing this. I then supported my tranny and removed the tranny crossmember so that I could pull the tailshaft housing. once I had that pulled and cleaned it up so I could epoxy the crack with some crazy *** hitemp, super tough aircraft epoxy. Hey, I know its cheap, but spending $40 a pop on those is getting expensive. Replace 4 already. We then started to mock up the UMI tunnel brack that mounts aft of the tranny. Well, what do you know. My TSP ypipe doesnt want to clear coming off my Pacesetter longtubes. Not good. After about 45mins of trying to reposition and redo the Ypipe ourselves..called it quits and I'm open headered till next monday when my exhaust guy can modify the ypipe to fit. At the same time he'll weld in my SFCs. We installed the tunnel brace and I set the driveshaft up there to clearance everything. Good to go. We then put the T/A in. Now, you have to have the T/A attached to the rear piece that mounts to your rearend other wise you will not get the two 15/16 bolts in there. The T/A went in smooth and set the pinion angle -2* and made sure everything was torqued down. Reinstalled the tailshaft housing and put back on the tranny crossmember. Everything good lowerd car.
Third, up top I installed a catch can. Easy enough.

Looking at car, I have more clearance with the T/A mount than I did with the ypipe. So all good. Then I started my car. Good god. Its one loudass **** right now. Especially with a F14 cam. There was a retired Marine at the the hobby shop changing his oil on his Mach1 that was talking **** to me while I was working on my car. I told him lets roll when I'm done but he said he was going to Vegas and didnt want to waste the gas??? WTF? I laid $100 on the table and said here, if you win, that should cover your gas. But you better have $100 ready for me though. He had full exaust and that was it. Please. Needless to say, when I got my car off the lift and started it. He promptly walked over and said he wanted to keep his money. What was more funny after that, my wife started to talk mad **** to him right there. calling him a pu$$$y and scar'd of a "stock" Z28. LOL.

Well back to the subject. Over all, the products are of good quality and I am pleased with them. Anyone else should not have any problems with them.

Any questions, feel free to P.M. me about it.

Ski

Edit: Update at the bottom.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

That is great to hear and I am glad you liked everything. Car should hook good now

I am sorry to hear about the y-pipe, was it catted or off road? To be honest I think it is the TSP y-pipe and not the torque arm. I like TSP and I have dealt with them a few times but I hate to say it but there y-pipes fit terrible. They hang low and are not consistent. We have installed a few here at the shop. One cleared with the tunnel mounted torque, it was close but cleared and would usually bang the tunnel mount when you got on it. The second TSP y-pipe hung even lower rested on the cross member. I actually found with the Pacesetter LT's the Pacesetter y-pipe fits the best.

Thanks again!
Ryan

alans02z

iTrader: (9)

Good write up. Your wife sounds bad *** and so does the car.

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Well, no unfortunatly, having a large stall with 4:10s doesnt help also.

Well, I got the ypipe on and everything to fit pretty decent. This is what it took. I went to my tranny shop that also does exhaust and we messed with it.

We disconnected the crossmember from the t/a and slide it down the drive shaft. Then we put the ypipe on and slide the crossmember back up, dont put any clamps and any that are on there take off and spray down all joints liberaly with PB Blaster or something similar. Now, it didnt want to go right back in place, so we used a BFH and prybar to move the ypipe just to mount the crossmember by the 4bolts. Of course the ypipe was hitting the mount for the safety loop and hanging to low. With everything loose, you can hit the single pipe where your Ipipe connects to to get it to move,slide over for clearance that way. BTW, it took a few good wacks with a 10lb sandhammer. Not no ordinary house hammer. Then we used a screw jack to push and hold the ypipe up where it would clear then heated the ypipe so it could move easier, the let it down. Did that 4times. Then we installed the Ipipe and still needed more clearance. So, we used the screw jack again to lift the ipipe and ypipe up to where enough clearance was there. Then put 5 tack welds on the Ipipe to Ypipe. Yes, I know, if have to remove I'll have to grind. We also reinstalled the band clamp. Then just reinstall the rest of the clamps and make sure everything is tightend down. Fits now, only bangs on turns, however, that could be the T/A pivoting.

UMI, does the T/A kinda bang like that on turns?

Ski

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

SKi, The torque arm shouldn't clunk in turns. I would be pretty sure the y-pipe is still banging it. Try wrapping a piece of heat proof rubber around the y-pipe where it is hitting. If the pivot point is clunking it needs tightened some more but once tight enough it will be silent. We never had that much trouble with the TSP y-yipes we installed. They always just hung to low and we had to pry them up. This is the reasons I don't like them.

A few more traction devices and it will hook good or get your pinion angle dialed in. I run that arm with 4.56's on a M6, I launch at 5K on drag radials and it hooks hard.

Ryan

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Ryan, I have the pinion angle set at -2*. If I measure the driveshaft its at +2 and the mount on the rear is -4. 2-4=-2*..correct? I thats where I have it. My LCAs are at a downward angle, but do need relocation mounts and need to get my subframes welded in.

Ski

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Your angle is correct, I am currently running at -3.5 degrees. However I do get vibrations in 5th at 80mph with it being there but I don't mind. Yes the relocation brackets will make a world of a difference and the SFC's will help you leave the line straighter.

Front and rear shocks will be important too.

Hope that helps
Ryan

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Sup people. Well, today I was able to take the car out and get on it a little. Let me tell you, world of difference. Yes I still spin a little, but not like before. Before on the street I would spin all the way through 1st and into second. Now, I spin a little in 1st and chirp 2nd. When I launch instead of the car just squating and spinning, the car actually lifts! Much better. Now I cant wait to get my relocat brackets in and get my subs welded in!! Once again:

Thanks To:

Byunspeed
UMI Performance

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

i think i might need to buy some relocation brackets i installed the non adj. LCAs and panhard bar but i hear relocation brackets make a big difference. (i plan on keeping my stock ride height)

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Great to hear and thanks again for the business!

Sidewayz28 if you have any questions on the brackets just let me know.

Thanks
Ryan