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car still 'bucking' after new pads and rotors... ?

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Old 07-07-2006, 04:10 PM
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Default car still 'bucking' after new pads and rotors... ?

i had Rotoworks drilled/slotted rotors from WS6store.com and Hawk HPS pads installed yesterday and the car is still 'bucking' back and forth slightly... it's not as bad as before, but it's still noticable. any ideas?

thanks
Ron
Old 07-08-2006, 02:24 PM
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hmm, anyone?
Old 07-08-2006, 11:11 PM
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Explain a little more...
Old 07-09-2006, 01:12 AM
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the car comes to a rough stop when braking still. it bounces forward, opposed to coming to a smooth stop is the best way i could describe it and the steering wheel shakes a ton...

just had an alignment and the brakes done
Old 07-09-2006, 01:36 AM
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Sounds like my car with warped stockers...
Old 07-09-2006, 01:39 AM
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I know what you mean, my TA does that too. Its like the brakes grab then let go for a split second then grab again and keep doing that till you stop, creating that bucking effect. It only seems to happen from speeds of around 45 and under. If you brake at higher speeds its smooth till you hit about that mph range. Anyone got any ideas?
Old 07-09-2006, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DropTopBird
I know what you mean, my TA does that too. Its like the brakes grab then let go for a split second then grab again and keep doing that till you stop, creating that bucking effect. It only seems to happen from speeds of around 45 and under. If you brake at higher speeds its smooth till you hit about that mph range. Anyone got any ideas?
exactly

mine was unbearable with the worn out stock brakes, but it still does it slightly with the new ones.
Old 07-09-2006, 11:05 AM
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I'm no expert, but based on your description and what I've read from other posts, it sounds like you might have some air in your brake lines. Have you tried bleeding them?


-Mike
Old 07-09-2006, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
I'm no expert, but based on your description and what I've read from other posts, it sounds like you might have some air in your brake lines. Have you tried bleeding them?


-Mike
I had that problem, I thought my rotors where warped so I got slotted rotors and hawk pads but it kept doing it until I got the air out. It still does it a little from time to time, but its no where near as violent as it used to be.
Old 07-09-2006, 11:58 AM
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Have you changed your rear pads? I had the same problem and thought that I had warped rotors. I bought a set of used front rotors off ebay, put them on, no change. So I thought that maybe I got screwed and went to autozone and bought a new set. Still no change. I then went to the rear and changed the pads, voila, problem went away. Just a thought.
Old 07-17-2006, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
I'm no expert, but based on your description and what I've read from other posts, it sounds like you might have some air in your brake lines. Have you tried bleeding them?


-Mike
My thoughts exactly... process of elimination.

Not much left unless you have a f@cked up line-lock installed...
Old 07-18-2006, 07:26 PM
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Hmmm, interesting thread. I have been researching this topic lately because I have been having the same problem that Silver02TA mentioned. I think I may try bleeding the lines this weekend.
Old 07-18-2006, 07:49 PM
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My ABS computer went bad back when I had 8K on the car and it exhibited the same symptoms. Food for thought. A dealer can check it for you with a TechII device.
Old 07-18-2006, 10:00 PM
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Did you get zinc coated rotors? If so, you might be in the middle of wearing the zinc coating off. As the coating wears off, there will be a difference in friction between the coated sections and the uncoated sections. That could be your problem (if you got zinc coated rotors, if not, disregard this post).
Old 07-18-2006, 10:28 PM
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"They" say that even new rotors need turning oftentimes. Perhaps give that a shot as well if the bleeding doesn't solve the problem.
Old 07-18-2006, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Did you get zinc coated rotors? If so, you might be in the middle of wearing the zinc coating off. As the coating wears off, there will be a difference in friction between the coated sections and the uncoated sections. That could be your problem (if you got zinc coated rotors, if not, disregard this post).
this is very possible... i noticed where it was rubbing off
Old 07-19-2006, 01:40 PM
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Just FYI, if there is any debris or rust behind the rotor as it mounts to the hub, it will act exactly like a warped rotor. The rotor will not run true like its supposed to if it does not sit exactly true to the hub. Just for comparison at my shop when we got our new on car brake lathe, we put a small piece of paper behind the rotor and retested runout- was at .010"!...and that was only a thin piece of normal paper.
Old 07-19-2006, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver02TA
this is very possible... i noticed where it was rubbing off
Ok, so they are zinc coated? Then give them time to wear through the zinc. After that happens, your problems should be solved.



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