TomQ

got my Baer Claw system installed (Front Kit)
I have 17" wheels.
First of all, we had to shave calipers they wouldn't fit my aftermarket wheels (well, no biggie here)
I have been driving car for a few days and noticed metal shaves inside of my passsenger side rim, appeared to be my rotors scrape lower a-arm when i turn my steering wheel allthe way to the right or left, we shaved it(lower a-arm) abit before the installation, but you know you can't shave it alot because it's hollow and can brake at hard connering, etc.
Please, see pics for better explanation,
What would you suggest ?
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500


Thanks

<small>[ February 27, 2003, 01:40 AM: Message edited by: TomQ ]</small>

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Nice <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

BTW: what size rotors are thoes, and what wheels are you running

For the rotors scraping, you can take the rotor off and put washers on the wheel studs to bush the rotor out just a little, and you could of used a spacer to push the rim out just a little so you wouldnt of had to grind the caliper

roy

Check your wheel bearings for play if their good I would suggest instead of washers a 5mm hubcentric spacer.

Glenn98ZM6

if i know my brakes, that set-up is not a floating caliper design. thus you cant space out the rotor. try clearancing the A arm a little more. that is a very low stress area of the A arm. if you end up grinding thru the wall of the metel, have it welded up, and grind it down again. i also would check your hubs for any slop. if you open track the car much, its easy to kill a set of hubs.

ibjamin

iTrader: (6)

That looks like the GT+ system with the C5 caliper. It is a floating caliper.

You could space out the rotor but then you should really space out the caliper attaching bracket by the same amount.

I would just hammer a dent into that control arm if you don't want to grind it.

I would check the hubs and also check the control arm bushings to make sure they aren't torn or damaged.

George

Glenn98ZM6

sorry. i didnt realize they where the same as what he already had on the car. when he said upgrade, i was thinking 4 or 6 pot calipers. yes, you could run a thin billet spacer on the back side of the rotor between it and the hub.
not to bust your *****, but thats an awfull exspensive way to upgrade to larger rotors (cause thats all you got out of that). you already had that caliper if you have a 97 and up C5 and 98 up f-body.

TomQ

Thanks for the replies guys!

This is Front Baer Claw System.(GT+) PBR 2 Piston, 13.15" x 1.25 rotors installed on 2k1 Trans am. Wheels are Enkeis 17" (the old model)
hard to see, but you will get an idea:
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500

I called to Baer today they told me they are aware of the problem of rotor scraping against lower a-arm and will add this to their installation instructions, basically the guy told me to shave my a-arm even more -- so that was the solution.

richieg

iTrader: (1)

nice job, they look great, I have the 6 piston setup on mine with b coddington 18's, it was one tight fit.

click for pics http://photos.yahoo.com/richieg26

Midnight F-117A

If the rotor moved that much, that shows me it got a bad wheel bearing.
I would inspect the wheel bearing for play.
I would use a spacer between the hub and the brake rotor, like in this order:
Hub > Spacer > Brake rotor > Wheel.

TomQ

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Midnight F-117A:
<strong> If the rotor moved that much, that shows me it got a bad wheel bearing.
I would inspect the wheel bearing for play.
I would use a spacer between the hub and the brake rotor, like in this order:
Hub > Spacer > Brake rotor > Wheel. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">crap <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
well, we shaved even more of the lower a-arm and it works under normal driving, but when i turn on a speed of 25-30 miles an hour it scrapes, FACK <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
If i use spacer then i will have to move caliper as well right?
Can you give me more details how it should be done?
Where do i get spacer?
Damn, i'm so upset <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

The spacers should be available at any wheel shop, or you can use thick washers on every stud. Then on the caliper mount, use the same thickness washer, but you might need some longer bolts.

Richieg: What size rotors are thoes that your running. About how much space is it betwene the caliper and the wheel. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

TomQ

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by stang killer:
<strong> The spacers should be available at any wheel shop, or you can use thick washers on every stud. Then on the caliper mount, use the same thickness washer, but you might need some longer bolts.

Richieg: What size rotors are thoes that your running. About how much space is it betwene the caliper and the wheel. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, baer wasn't excited about using spacer, washers and moveing caliper
once again they told me to shave even more of lower a-arm and so i will do and so if it brakes and i die you know who has to be blamed <img border="0" alt="[bomb]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" />

Teutonic Speedracer

iTrader: (20)

TomQ,

I had the same problem when installed that kit on my 2001. Everything was fine, then I drove it about 2 miles, pulled into my driveway full steering lock, and noticed it was braking without me hitting the brakes. Back to mechanics, we threw it up on the lift and had to grind a good 1/8" of sloppy, excess welds off of the lower control arm. No problems since. I let Baer know about it, back in April and they said they would update their instructions....guess they never did. I had talked to Rick Elam.

Good Luck,
Dennis

FASST

Shaved my driver side A-arm. It would only grind at ~5mph and only in one direction.

If all else fails, just keep driving it...the metal will eventually grind itself down <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

TomQ

Yup,i talked to Rick too he said they will update their instructions for sure now, they have a nice customer service though

i shaved some more of the a-arm, seems to be fine

i like the brakes, they are like "ok, we are stoping now" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

ssdrivingbastard

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Sorry to be the voice of reason but you went from 2 piston stock to 2 piston upgrade <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> then had to shave metal off your A arm so the rotors don't hit the A arm. : slap : Your going to spend more money in the long run fixing your car when those arms give out on you and your tire and brakes fall off. When you could have spent the same amount of money and got the Wilwood 6 piston set up.

The only problems I had with mine was getting the street pads from wilwood and air in the system is a pain to get out. Other than that it was a good money spent for wilwood on all four corner.

advise: get your money back get new A-arm and go with wilwood.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Someone told me that the willwood kit didnt have inner dust boots and seals, and the kit was only for track use and willwood recomended that they be torn down after every event.