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Old 10-16-2006, 10:29 PM   #1
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Default Tire width

As far as autocrossing, canyon carving, and general handling go (not drag strip action) how much does increased tire width help traction? For example, I have 9" wide wheels and 275s all around. So lets assume I'm running a quality tire, which I'm not, like a GSD3 or Pilot Sport in 275. Would stepping right up to a 315 width of the same tire in the rear, say, not have the rear end swing around in a fast turn? Basically I want to know what the difference might be between a very grippy 275 and a moderately grippy 315. Would they give the same grip and how much of a factor is it (tire quality vs. how wide)

This reminds me of a car here that ran 335s all around for some type of road course, I think autocross but don't remember, which made me want to ask, since the f-body turning radius is already limited, how wide of a tire could go in the front without rubbing with the steering wheel at full turn?
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:33 AM   #2
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Its a number of users here that run 17x11 315 combo for competition/trackday use. Keep it mind with the wider tire your morelikley to hydroplane.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:40 PM   #3
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I've autocrossed on 315/35-17's on all 4 corners. They fit the front better than the rear.... I know of several guys who run them on the street. However, you "shouldn't need mroe grip than a decent 275 can provide for street driving, or you're going to hurt yourself or someone else. However, if you have a car that's really loose (tall happy, the tail wants to come loose or come around), I'd look at the setup first. You can probably do a spring or swaybar change and fix the cars manners instead of buying wheels and tires.

What suspension parts are on the car right now?
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:51 PM   #4
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usually 315's on the street is like saying "look, im fast"

but they look great no matter what.
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:26 PM   #5
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I have SLP's Bilstein suspension option.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:59 AM   #6
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So I suppose that if I'm looking to push some twisties a little faster that suspension pieces would be the priority.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
So I suppose that if I'm looking to push some twisties a little faster that suspension pieces would be the priority.
yeah pretty much
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
I have SLP's Bilstein suspension option.
Not to be crude or presumptious, however the SLP Bilstien's are most likely a big part of the problem. I don't want to steal anybody's thunder here, so I'll just leave it at that. You might want to look into something that has a better valving than the SLP Bilsteins.

AFA what's been stated around here so far, the real problem with your handling is mostly through what you have on your suspension, and less to do with your wheels. 17x9" or 17x9.5" fitted with 275/40 17's are already enough.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:02 PM   #9
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Yeah I am wanting to get a whole new setup and alignment but this is what came on the car. I just wanted to see if there could be an advantage in only more tire or if they'd be beneficial on top of new suspension components.
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:44 PM   #10
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something along this line is what will significantly improve your situation:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513475

Does your kit already include the 35mm front/21 rear? If so, then you probably have one less thing to modify.
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:40 AM   #11
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Ah yes, I've read that and I know it's a sticky. I plan to order some things from Mr. Strano this winter. I was thinking his hollow bar pair, springs, and new Konis ... maybe. Those are expensive. Then I was wanting to get some Umi 3pt SFCs and a relocated TA. Can you comment on the difference of a tunnel mounted and a relocated TA? The tunnel is almost double the cost last I checked and someone on the boards said it was more for drag racing while a relocated one would help more for my style of driving.

Either way I'm going to re-review that sticky and then when I'm ready to order hopefully Sam won't be too busy to talk to me.
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:50 AM   #12
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If you are looking for canyon carving/cornering setup, stay away from a shortened T/A, because while it may improve acceleration wheel hop, it will easily induce deceleration wheel hop, otherwise known as brake hop. Relocation isn't necessary either as the trans mount just isn't weak for most applications. AFA SFC's, they'll only serve as extended jacking points for your application.

The biggest problem around this board is that many think that the items that are touted by drag racers is what's needed by corner carvers and a huge problem with that is that the physics in those two activities are diametrically opposed.

And as always, when it comes to modifying, there is no such thing as a free lunch.
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