LS1MUNN

Does anyone have any experience changing 4th gen front control arm bushings? After purchasing my B4C, The first thing I wanted to freshen up was the suspension. I have replaced everything on the car except for the front control arm bushings. I purchased a bushing kit for it and upon reading the instructions and calling the tech line at prothane. I found out that I have to reuse the steel shells on the factory bushings. Anybody have any experience with this? I have removed the control arms and inspected the stock bushings, and they are definitely worn out. I replaced the bushings on a 3rd gen car and it was a real pain in the ***. This looks even worse. Any suggestions?

JGA

Hi
I have a set sitting on the shelf. When I found out the same information about the bushings I was very dissapointed. The things should come with bushings. I mainly jamed out on the project because of the amount of labor involved, but if you already have your control arms off and need new bushing anyway, you should try and use them.

My plan was to buy jobber OE replacement bushings (like Moog) on the internet and scrap them for the bushings. I think I found the uppers and lowers for about $50.00

As far as installing them, I have no experience. Sorry.

JA

2KWhiteB4C

I replaced mine along with the ball joints. Get a torch and burn the old rubber out. Takes about 15-20 minutes per side and the smell is horrible but it gets them out of the way. Then you can clean the metal sleeves off and press them into the new bushings with some assembly lube. Just make sure you lube everything where the Prothane touches metal.

The ball joints were a different animal. I took the lowers arms to a shop with a press and paid them $40 to press the old joints out and the new joints in.

Congradts on the B4C. I bought mine new in 2000 as a demo model.

arrogant1

I too have fallen to the control arm dilemna. I have my arms off, all four of em and am disappointed in what has to be done. We put a caliper to the sleeve and the replacement bushing and the two don't add up. What really sucks is it appears that the bushing is fabricated WITH the metal sleeve since the attempt at pushing em out just ripped out the inner sleeve.

Guess I'll try the torching thing

kevinm2112

iTrader: (9)

I just finished replacing the bushings on my entire car, and it was a much bigger job than I was expecting. To remove the sleeve on the upper control arms, I used a torch to heat it up, but I ended up ruining the control arms in the process. Two sleeves came out no problem, the other two would not come out and after pounding on them, my control arms were shot so I just ordered new ones that came with polyurithane bushings already installed. I decided to take the lower control arms to a shop and they charged me 40 to remove and install new bushings( well worth it ). The rear control arms were not as bad, but still a PITA!

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

On the rear bushing for the front LCAs, the ID of the bushing is much larger than the OD of the steel sleeve. There's no way to email Prothane to ask about this.
All I can figure is the washers do most of the work, the sleeves just keep the washers in position.
I considered making new sleeves, but then how would there still be any wheel travel for bumps?
The washers are seized to the sleeves, so not reusable after so many years. Really no way to press them apart.
Is this whole mess an issue with Energy Suspension? Their equivalent looks identical in Summit's pics.

rjc1629

iTrader: (8)

I just installed prothane bushings in both upper and lower front control arms. I did however substitute the rear lower bushing for Moog's problem solver spherical bushing. Everything went in easy and rides much better than the stock rubber. Burning the old ones out was a PITA though.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

You do not want poly in these locations. Look at the Moog parts, and especially this special vertical bushing unit in the front. See this thread, post 12:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...fo-please.html