Shock advise.
#1
Shock advise.
2000 WS6 with 56k miles.
I am putting Eibach pro springs on it soon.
Some say it is a waste without also replacing shocks.
I don't mind spending more money for shocks but do I need to?
Any recommendations?
I am putting Eibach pro springs on it soon.
Some say it is a waste without also replacing shocks.
I don't mind spending more money for shocks but do I need to?
Any recommendations?
#2
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I would go with Konis single adjustable or revalved Bilsteins since you're using lowering springs. But just give SamStrano a call and ask him for shock recommendation.
He is the one I would listen to when it comes to suspension parts for my camaro.
This is his website www.stranoparts.com but call him on his techline
He is the one I would listen to when it comes to suspension parts for my camaro.
This is his website www.stranoparts.com but call him on his techline
#4
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depends on how much you want to spend, the shocks mentioned above always get great reviews but if you are lacking in the cash department, i would recommend the kyb agx adjustable shocks and struts. i've had them on for only six months but they have given me no problems, can pretty much get it as stiff or soft as you want.
#5
What's up with the "revalved Bilsteins"?
Does he mod them or what?
Does he mod them or what?
Originally Posted by Z28camaroLS1
I would go with Konis single adjustable or revalved Bilsteins since you're using lowering springs. But just give SamStrano a call and ask him for shock recommendation.
He is the one I would listen to when it comes to suspension parts for my camaro.
This is his website www.stranoparts.com but call him on his techline
He is the one I would listen to when it comes to suspension parts for my camaro.
This is his website www.stranoparts.com but call him on his techline
#6
Description:
This kit includes the BE5-2406 that we revalve to better control the front spring of your F Body. In it's stock valve rate, it doesn't control the stock spring under agressive driving. It also doesn't do a good job controlling any spring upgrades such as Eibachs and Ground Controls among others.
This kit includes the BE5-2406 that we revalve to better control the front spring of your F Body. In it's stock valve rate, it doesn't control the stock spring under agressive driving. It also doesn't do a good job controlling any spring upgrades such as Eibachs and Ground Controls among others.
#7
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If you can afford it, get the revalves. If you can't afford it, then at least get Bilstein HDs. I have the HDs and they work great, but IF I had the money I would have gone with revalves.
Either way, don't do springs without shocks. That's just no fun at all.
Either way, don't do springs without shocks. That's just no fun at all.
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#8
Others complain about the back end sitting lower.
Will I have this problem?
Will I have this problem?
Originally Posted by Blakbird24
If you can afford it, get the revalves. If you can't afford it, then at least get Bilstein HDs. I have the HDs and they work great, but IF I had the money I would have gone with revalves.
Either way, don't do springs without shocks. That's just no fun at all.
Either way, don't do springs without shocks. That's just no fun at all.
#9
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Originally Posted by sabre_805
Others complain about the back end sitting lower.
Will I have this problem?
Will I have this problem?
The front was lowered significantly more than the rear in my case, so the rear actually sits higher (relative to the front) than before the swap. Front drop was just over an inch, rear was just barely over 3/4". The unfortunate side effect is obvious weight transfer changes. My tires spin like mad in 1st-3rd, even with the clutch fully engaged. (not stock hp).
#10
What tires are you running on the rear?
I have Nitto drags.
I have Nitto drags.
Originally Posted by Blakbird24
Look at the pic in my sig. Does it look lower?
The front was lowered significantly more than the rear in my case, so the rear actually sits higher (relative to the front) than before the swap. Front drop was just over an inch, rear was just barely over 3/4". The unfortunate side effect is obvious weight transfer changes. My tires spin like mad in 1st-3rd, even with the clutch fully engaged. (not stock hp).
The front was lowered significantly more than the rear in my case, so the rear actually sits higher (relative to the front) than before the swap. Front drop was just over an inch, rear was just barely over 3/4". The unfortunate side effect is obvious weight transfer changes. My tires spin like mad in 1st-3rd, even with the clutch fully engaged. (not stock hp).
#11
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Originally Posted by sabre_805
What tires are you running on the rear?
I have Nitto drags.
I have Nitto drags.
With DRs you will be fine...and a possible positive side effect could be that you may get a few more launches out of your rear (if your still on the 10-bolt) because theoretically, there will not be as much weight/force on it during a launch. That's just theory though, no guarantees.
I'll have to get me a second set of wheels with 555r's when I eventually decide to make a few passes I guess.
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Originally Posted by sabre_805
Some say it is a waste without also replacing shocks.
I don't mind spending more money for shocks but do I need to?
Any recommendations?
You "must" replace the shocks.
You have 2 options.
Koni SA starts at 725
Revalves around 550 (i think)
Nope you shouldn't use the AGX trash series shocks on springs. Why are you putting Eibachs? many people dont' like the springs espeically the rear ones. Have you looked at other springs/rates?