Any tips for removing the nut on the shock tower?
#1
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Any tips for removing the nut on the shock tower?
When I spiun the nut, it spins the entire spring. I tried nut buster, but no results. is there an easy way to take this off?
#2
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Is this for the front driver's side? With the spring compressed, (I gather that's been done) try holding the top of the strut where there aren't any threads with some vice-grips, hopefully that'll keep the shaft from rotating, and then loosen the nut. An extra set of hands from a friend help a ton. If it wasn't for a friend of mine holding stuff, I'd still be trying to put my suspension together. On my passenger side, I had to drill the nut off the strut shaft to get the strut separated from the spring because of a ton of rust, not too much fun. If that fails, find a tire shop, they should be able to fix it for you. I hope this helps out.
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impact gun ???. If you're talking about the shaft of the rear shock at the top, a good crescent wrench is your BEST FRIEND. Not even vice grips can beat it. Just make sure it's a stiff one, one that doesn't wobble AT ALL when you try to wiggle the adjustable end with your finger. That sucker won't budge.
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#8
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I used a 3" cut off wheel on a die grinder on mine to cut that nut and top of the shaft up enough to get the mount off. I obviously didn't care to keep the shock as I had the Konis going back on the car.
When you put it back together, pack that entire strut mount with wheel bearing grease. I mean everything. Make a big pool of grease for everything to swim in.
When you put it back together, pack that entire strut mount with wheel bearing grease. I mean everything. Make a big pool of grease for everything to swim in.
#9
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Originally Posted by DuronClocker
I used a 3" cut off wheel on a die grinder on mine to cut that nut and top of the shaft up enough to get the mount off. I obviously didn't care to keep the shock as I had the Konis going back on the car.
When you put it back together, pack that entire strut mount with wheel bearing grease. I mean everything. Make a big pool of grease for everything to swim in.
When you put it back together, pack that entire strut mount with wheel bearing grease. I mean everything. Make a big pool of grease for everything to swim in.
#11
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Originally Posted by EchoMirage
hmm......mine came off with no problem. just used a small crecent wrench, and a ratchet wrench for the nut, and off with no sweat.
#12
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Odd how that passenger side fills with water and rusts, which is where the drill came in ..... Drivers side was easy, wrench and vice grips, no problem...
#13
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Yeah, I know a few of us have commented on that before. Same thing happened here. Driver's side was perfect and easy, and the passenger side required cutting/grinding. Just pulled them apart again a couple days ago to put my new front springs on, and they were okay since I put anti-seize everywhere last year when I did the shocks. This time I put a little more anti-seize on the threads and where metal makes contact, and then I packed everything with lots of grease. That way no water will be able to sit in there
#14
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Originally Posted by rd_ls1_z
Odd how that passenger side fills with water and rusts, which is where the drill came in ..... Drivers side was easy, wrench and vice grips, no problem...
I had to hacksaw my nuts off. Well, actually the shaft.
Mine were rusted beyond recognition. No vice grips for me.
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I had a shop pull mine apart. The new bushings were only $50 each and the shop had to use a torch to get them apart. They charged me $150 for the mounts and to install my new springs and struts on them. I simply dropped them off one day and picked them up the next.
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I didnt need to save mine since I had new shocks/springs/mounts, but my friend did want my springs, I had took a torch and just cut the shaft let everything fly.
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My passenger side was easy. My driver's side was insane.
I parked my 95 Yukon ON the strut assembly to keep it from moving and used a 1/2" socket wrench with a 3 foot breaker bar to break the nut loose. Before doing it I soaked it with CRC for about 30 mins. Once the nut broke loose, the shaft started turning with it, so I backed the truck off and used vice grips and the 1/2" wrench to fully remove the nut.
I parked my 95 Yukon ON the strut assembly to keep it from moving and used a 1/2" socket wrench with a 3 foot breaker bar to break the nut loose. Before doing it I soaked it with CRC for about 30 mins. Once the nut broke loose, the shaft started turning with it, so I backed the truck off and used vice grips and the 1/2" wrench to fully remove the nut.
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Originally Posted by rd_ls1_z
Good pictures, I never noticed the hole, actually, never looked for any.
With enough back lighting you can see the tire or ground / floor if the wheel is off.