tici

iTrader: (1)

A couple of weeks ago I installed a new, stronger front sway bar with poly bushings and new end links.
Please look at the pictures: the driver side bushing seems to be too far away or the bar is too short, in fact the bushing is distorted.
Your opinion? Is that OK? What should I do?

Also please tell me if the links are supposed to be as tight as this. Too much? Not enough?

Thanks!

tici

iTrader: (1)

C'mon guys! Do you think I can drive like that or should I modify something?
That bushing doesn't look good, it's bended.
Would you leave it or would you do something?

One thing is clear: the piece of bar that goes through the bushing isn't straight.
Maybe the bar too short, maybe the bushing in the wrong position (too far away towards the wheel).

???

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

was your car jacked up or at ride height in those pics? Is it lowered?

White_LightningZ

iTrader: (1)

Not normal in terms of what my 35mm bushing looks like. Safe to drive around like that though wouldn't worry too much about it

tici

iTrader: (1)

Stock springs
Stock height
Koni SA
The car was at ride height

The passenger bushing is perfect. It's right in the middle of the (short) straight piece of the sway bar. The deformed bushing is already on the piece of the bar that makes a bend towards the link.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The bar is being pulled to the passenger side of the car. Bars are built in a jig, so yours can't really be different than any of the others.

Undo the endlinks completely. Take the D-bushing out and turn it around in the bracket. When you re-install note there are slots in the U-brackets that hold those bushings which allow some fore/aft movementn. Make sure the bar is pushed as far to the rear as it will go. When you hook you links back up, you want the car's suspension loaded (someone in the driver's seat) and start with the Driver's side link. I believe the passenger side link is overly tight and it's pulling the bar to the right side of the car. You don't want to tighten the one completely before starting the other. You need to get them both started, and work them both down, but driver's side first and never overly tight. Just tight enough so the bushings, washers, etc can't be spun.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Good idea!

I left the same amount of threads left (driver/passanger) on top of the nut.
OK, it's not a guarantee that they are tight the same...

I'll give it a check

Thanks - Stefano

jchrisos

Did you torque the endlink bolts or just count the threads? Not 100% sure, but I would torque them to specs. I think it was 10lbs.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I started to torque them according to the instructions, but I had the feeling it was already too tight without reaching the torque value.
I greased the threads to be able to remove them some day: this modify for sure the torque value.

Acoording to Sam Strano: "Just tight enough so the bushings, washers, etc can't be spun".

In the link box the instructions say to torqu them.

According to Hotchkis: "Tighten till the bushings are squeezed to a larger diameter that their support washer"

Some more ideas?

jchrisos

When I did my endlinks, they were getting smashed and did expand to a larger diameter than the washer. It definitely seemed odd to me like they were too tight, but I just followed the instructions as stated and torqued them.

But this doesn't sound like the problem. As someone else stated it's probably because the bar is too far over to the one side. Good luck!!

tici

iTrader: (1)

Firs of all (pics 1 + 2) look at the piece where you bolt the U-bracket that holds the bushing. It's not flat, there is a "valley" in the middle. The stock rubber bushings have the same shape, the aftermarket PU bushings don't.
Result: the force is not applied to the whole surface of the bushing (the middle portion can flex). I cut two steel plates that go between the bushing and the frame. At least the bushings are now sitting on a flat surface.

Bar (pics 3 to 6) the places that go through the bushings are supposed to be cylindrical, like a piece of streight pipe. They aren’t!
No chances for the bushings to "hug" the bar: a good chance for sand and water to go in the space in Between

Bar length (pics 7 to 10) the slots in the U-brackets are enough to move them just 2-3 mm (1/10") - not really enough to make a big adjustment.
The bar is definitely too short: no matter how I pull it left<-> right on side is too short (the pictures were taken when the links were loose, so what you see just depends on the bar).

Once I tightened the links the situation of the bar's bushings didn’t change.

Result (to my opinion): either the bar is too short, or the hangers are too far away.
I can't imagine that my frame is special... sooo... is it possible that this bar is too short??

A possible solution: install U-Brackets with offset holes.

What do you think?

PS: go with your mouse on the pics to see what # they are: they aren't in the right sequence....

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I'd just like to post up that I have the same issues with my bar. Not to much the pulling, but the feeling that the bar is "too short". I've only got around an 1/8" clearance between the bar and each shock. The endlinks were very difficult to install because only one at a time would line up straight (even when just putting the bolt through with no nut or anything. I tried everything during install.

I've just let it be. Haven't had any issues, and it doesn't make any noise.

tici

iTrader: (1)

To solve my issue I'm fabricating a piece that bolts in the original frame holes and allows to install the U-Bracket 3/4" away from the wheel.
At that point the bar is more or less straight.
I'll post a pic as soon it's done

...it really looks like something isn't 100% OK: either aren't all F-bodies built the same, or the bars...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The bars are built in a jig....

Greggy

Just checked my bar and all parts are centered and clearances are good.

Maybe if the camber and caster bolts on both sides are pushed all the way in one direction, the bar would have a temdency to move in that direction. But then I assume your alignment should be pretty messed up.

greg

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

My new bar was close to an inch shorter than my stock bar was when I compared them off the car before installing the new bar.

Don't get me wrong, I have no complaints about the performance of the bar. It does exactly what its supposed to do. Installation is just a pain. Won't be the easiest to disconnect/reconnect at the track quickly!

tici

iTrader: (1)

Yep... but then why it looks shorter? No matter how I pull it left or right, one side will be too short and the bushing will be on the bent part of the pipe, not where it's straight.

Mine is a convertible, is it possible that they are a little different?

It's not a big issue. As said, I can fabricate something. The bar is working fine, I just don't like the idea of stuff going between the bushing and the bar.

Ok, I'm VERY picky too. I expect everything is 100% perfect

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The bushings to bar surface is never hermetically sealed. Dirty and dust will pretty much get in there no matter what. I'm at a bit of a loss as why your seems to be narrower than most, though it won't pose a problem.

As for disconnecting @ the track, just unhook an endlink, no need to remove the bar unless you have to save the weight.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I know, that's all I used to do with the stock bar. It doesn't weigh enough for me to care about weight-wise, it was just to get rid of some resistance in the front suspension on launch, of course.

My main problem doesn't lie in mounting the bar to the car (though I have the same problem as he does, it doesn't bother me as much). It is getting both endlinks installed easily. They're on such an angle that it's very difficult to get a socket on the bolt head in the A-arm. Need to do them both at the same time, and even then it still isn't very easy. The stock bar had the bolts straight up and down and I never had issues like this. That'd be why it'll be a pain to unhook one endlink at the track and hook it back up.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I don't see it as a big problem, I'm not complaining either (for a complain I'd prefer to contact you directly).
I'd just like to know what other people is experiencing with aftermarket bars. Not only yours... in general.

As said: i'll fabricate something in the next few days and post it. It may help other members (or yourself too).