bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

We went on a canyon carving run for the past two days. I mean really DRIVING this car! This thing feels so disconnected. Granted I don't have sways, but the body roll is still there. If I'm going straight and kind of snap the wheel, it seems that the front will be somewhat slow to react, then the rear follows (obviously)..

This is what I have so far.. I wanted to do all BMR components, except for the springs and shocks. (I'm uploading a video of the cruise now)

Hotchkis Lower Control Arms w/ Polyurethane Bushings
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Torque Arm W/ Poly Bushing
BMR Chromemoly Shock Tower Bar
BMR Chromemoly Tubular Subframe connectors (2pt, NEED DD's)
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
SLP Bilstien shocks
Energy Suspension Trans Mount

GSD3 275/35 FT tires @30psi/ GSD3 285/35 rear tires@ 28psi

What do I need to build a canyon carver? Thanx for the help.. I need to almost start from scratch on this car.. THe Exh needs to be replaced too. (Headers back)


Cruise vid..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uGQGHdY22s

JD_AMG

Highlighted main problems here. Im no expert, but Ive heard Eibach springs are terrible (not enough spring rate, and too low), the SLP Bilstiens are made for stock height springs, and Im pretty sure the relocation brackets are more aimed at drag racing than handling (someone correct me if Im wrong).

About how "the front is slow to react, then the rear follows" sounds like how my car felt before the Koni's.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ huh... Yeah.. I've been told by strano that the Eibach springs are not the best rate.. And the SLP bilstiens are made for SLP Springs..

Yeah.. I allways thought that the LCA RLB's are to correct the lost angles, and that the LCA's should be parallel to the ground. -Prolly better for dragging.. you're right..

The Pro Kit is low as hell.. After having that stuff on the car for over a year now, I'm realizing that it's not the best..

Uploaded a vid of the cruise, for who ever cares..
http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=2749

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

WEll with the limited info.
1. Konis 4/4
2. Strano Springs
3 Strano Hollow front and rear bars

Be like a new car

I think the main thing is the lack of upgraded bars and your dampers can not control the roll rate of your springs.

And you should know a question like this needs to be talked though and not just a internet post, so I would call Sam tech line monday morning.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

" Hotchkis Lower Control Arms w/ Polyurethane Bushings"

This is not helping at all for a road race/canyon carver setup either. Get some double adjustable heim joint LCA's or go back to stock with 1LE rubber busjings (Sam has them). The poly at both ends is bad for turning.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Man I cant wait to jump on the Strano kit. Too bad its gonna be about a year

At first I thought that I wanted a drag car... then when I realized that I like driving the car ALL the time a AutoX car sounds like a more fun hobby.

From what I have read on here there is NO better kit that the Strano kit. Koni's are the best, his sway bars are second to none, and the rest of the parts in the kit were all designed to work together. My plan is to get his full kit minus the SFC's, and then pick up everything else from UMI.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

1. The shocks you have can't handle the Eibach springs. Need at least revalves or konis to dampen them properly..... (some people like other shocks though you are taking a gamble)

2. You didn't mention swaybars. A 35mm front and a 22 or 21mm rear is a good balance for the car. The 35 front will give you a better feel for your steering input.

The STB felt like it did nothing for me and I've even removed mine. Basically a STB does almost nothing compared with a big front swaybar

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I really think most of it is the lack of sways.. I'll heed 99% of this advice tho.. THanx a lot..

It'll be a bit until I see some of the $$ to redo this car.. .. I really should have done more research before I bought that ****.. My buddy's got the same shox/springs w/ DD SFC's and sways.. his car handles like it's on rails w/ the 555 315's on all 4..

Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

why don't you just add the sway bars for now and see what happens?

That's what I'd do...

as far as the LCA's, like was mentioned, poly/poly isn't really the best choice... hell I have a poly/rod setup and I'm actually regretting not getting the rod/rod ... though I've been a tad lazy in my maintenance to grease them up as of late because it never stops raining in Houston ...

at the very least, you'd benefit from the Bilstein revalves Sam offers if you can't shell out the extra 300ish for the Koni... I'm at stock ride height so I just went with the HD's (not revalves) for the time being because I got a good deal on them when I bought them locally, and have no intention of lowering my car for the remainder of my time in Texas (when I move, I'll consider it)

anthracis

I just got the Bilstein HD shocks ($339) and Eibach Pro-Kit Springs ($125). I wanted to lower the car and improve the handling. Did I do the right thing? I am kinda confused after reading all the stuff here. I am sure I didn't get the revalves...Just the standard HD Bilsteins. Any info would be appreciated.

Btw, I have about 450rwhp (full bolt-ons) 98 SS. I do have a torque arm installed. Dyno Tuned PCM, Ford 9" rear (with Eaton posi 3.70 gears), and a bulletproof 4l60e (with 3200 stall).

Demon Of Dreams

iTrader: (3)

I've heard and can attest to the HD's being great for a stock height, but not too great for lowering... that's why Sam offers the Revalves if you can't go all out on the Koni's

anthracis

I called and spoke to Sam. He educated me on the benefits vs. drawbacks of different shock setups. I am going with the adjustable Konis. I will get them ordered by the end of the week.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

One last question..

Anything wrong w/ a set of BMR Sways? 32/21 ...

Wait... Does UMI Make sways??

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

Wrong ...no. The best maybe not.

UMI does not make sways Sam takes care of that.

Get his 35/22 combo and save the weight

IF money is tight get the front ST 35mm and stock rear.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ cool.. Thanx boss..

I tried the strano site, but it's kind of hard to find stuff...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

A new site is being designed. However, web-sites aren't knowledgeable, they just show you parts. A set of our bars are $379.....

Anything wrong with BMR bars themselves? No. I'm not a fan of the combination of sizes and the weight. Note I use about the same rear stiffness bar with a much bigger front one.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^Thanx for the help boss... I figured out your site. I'm a little slow sometimes..


I just placed an order for your 35mm FT hollow bar w/ ends (Richard Bayer).. I can't wait to bolt that baby up! THis body roll is REALLY getting on my nerves! I should be able to do the rear next check... I have compiled enough info to know what I need. I should have read the stickey first.. I honestly didn't see it. I'm going to go thru you from now on for susp parts. I'll need new SFC's and LCA's soon too..

Thanx again..

Dal1as

Also, try 33/31 psi for your tire pressure (cold) 30/28 is not enough for the D3's from my experience.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It's been illuded to, but here we go:

-The poly/poly LCA's are drag parts only that don't let the suspension articulate well and binding and sticking is not what I want in my suspension.
-The TA is fine, but not a handling part.
-The Shock tower brace is fine.
-The SFC's are fine, and I disagree you need DD's--I have none on my car.
-PHB is good, but really the only ones I personally use are the double rod-ended ones.
-Relocation brackets aren't on my car, and I really wouldn't want them as they make the car move around more than I want. Wheelhop shouldn't be a problem especially with a TA and some good LCA's.
-Pro-kits are ok at best. We can work with them there are worse and you can do better
-SLP shocks are not really super damping shocks. I'd be looking at changing them for some Koni's.
-Trans mount is a non-issue.