how to adjust Torque arm?
#3
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Still a noob also..but you will get mixed responses on how to set it..i was told to just use a magnetic angle finder...and place it on the bottom of the torque arm mount, attached to the rear..the flat part. -2 deg. is supposed to be ideal for a normal application. Loosen the lock nuts on the bottom of the arm and turn the center of it until it is where you need it, forgot which way. You might need to move the top one in also, but not sure how yours is set. Like i said i'm still learning also, just figured i'd try to help you out.
#5
UMI sells magnetic angle finders with their torque arms, I think its $9.99?? Summit, jegs, and so on also has them....so just find the dealer you like best and buy from them.
Im not to sure but I think you want around 0 degrees pinion angle for normal driving and anywhere from -1 to -2 at the track, It all depends on your set up....Id call or send a message to UMI and see what they suggest.
Im not to sure but I think you want around 0 degrees pinion angle for normal driving and anywhere from -1 to -2 at the track, It all depends on your set up....Id call or send a message to UMI and see what they suggest.
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#9
best way:
adjust TA so that the angle finder reads exactly the same number on both the drive shaft and the TA mounting plate. this will be a pinion angle of 0*
Figure out which way to turn the adjuster so that the pinion rotates down, not up. And turn the ajduster that way, bringing the pinion down, until there is a difference of two.
For instance, adjust the thing so that the needle points to 18 (or whatever, just so long as its the same) whether you put it on the DS or the bracket and then adjust the pinion so that it rotates down until the DS reads 17 and the pinion reads 19 (or whatever)
The whole point here is to have the u-joint just slightly kinked downward so that the torque of a hard launch brings the angle to around 0 so that you don't go positive and break something with a hard launch. this means you'll be negative the rest of the time, which translates into increased wear.
For street cars. I go 0*. Less vibration, less wear, and unless you really launch hard, you wont flex the pinion angle positive enough to break something
adjust TA so that the angle finder reads exactly the same number on both the drive shaft and the TA mounting plate. this will be a pinion angle of 0*
Figure out which way to turn the adjuster so that the pinion rotates down, not up. And turn the ajduster that way, bringing the pinion down, until there is a difference of two.
For instance, adjust the thing so that the needle points to 18 (or whatever, just so long as its the same) whether you put it on the DS or the bracket and then adjust the pinion so that it rotates down until the DS reads 17 and the pinion reads 19 (or whatever)
The whole point here is to have the u-joint just slightly kinked downward so that the torque of a hard launch brings the angle to around 0 so that you don't go positive and break something with a hard launch. this means you'll be negative the rest of the time, which translates into increased wear.
For street cars. I go 0*. Less vibration, less wear, and unless you really launch hard, you wont flex the pinion angle positive enough to break something