zz4camaro1980

I recently got my hands on a lathe...

The suspension on my 01 SS is getting a little old (98xxx). Instead of buying new bushings I plan on making my own out of Delrin.

Does anyone know exactly what type of delrin is typically used in racing applications?
Also, is there a better type out there for street use i.e. better wear resistance/less vibrations to the chassis?

For reference: http://plastics.dupont.com/myplastic...0&locale=en_US

I am also considering TORLON PIA (PIA=polyamideimide). Ive heard reports of a Ferrari racing team using these with great success, but have yet to hear anything about these on a street car. I believe this is also much more expensive. Anyone have any experience with this?

http://www.vertecpolymers.com/product_info6000.html

texinteg

iTrader: (4)

Thats what kind of bushing Bryan uses when he makes the Pharro Performance suspension parts. I will ask him what kind of delrin he uses.

sgarnett

iTrader: (1)

Delrin is only suitable for the front upper control arm bushings. Every other suspension bushing needs to be able to flex a little (even the front lower camber bushing) as the suspension moves to avoid binding.

texinteg

iTrader: (4)

Really even the panhard rod? Cause I have never had a problem with it in them.

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

So rod ends, the same type of bushing it sounds like this guy wants to make, are bad for everything except upper control arms?

I don't believe you.

sgarnett

iTrader: (1)

Delrin bushings are typically free to rotate on one axis. Rod ends are free to rotate on all three. They have very little in common. Rod ends work just fine in a lot of places that you can't use delrin.

You might get away with delrin with a stock PHR because the steel U channel will twist. I wouldn't try replacing the poly bushing in a tubular bar with delrin, though. As the axle moves up and down, it also rotates a little.

dailydriver

I believe the O.P. is inferring about making a SOLID bushing out of delrin, NOT a delrin lined rod-end!!

Is that right, zz4??

VIP1

I think you missed it completely.

He doesn't want to make rod ends. He's looking into making Delrin bushings to replace the rubber bushings. Delrin is a hard rubber-like material (almost like plastic).

Rod ends provide more articulation. This articulation replaces the flex of the rubber bushings (and stamped LCAs & PHB). Putting stiff bushings in place of the rubber bushings removes flex and can cause bind depending on where they are installed (ex: LCA & PHB). Rod ends provide articulation greater than the rubber flex, but the downside is harshness.

Now for the front A-arms, there was a thread a while back (I think it was early last year) about which bushing to place where. I think the result was that the front end needed a combination of bushings (poly-or-delrin, rubber, and rod) in different locations and not a blanket application.

zz4camaro1980

Sorry, I was away all weekend.

dailydriver: yes, I am looking to replace the rubber bushings with Delrin where ever I can.

sgarnett: would poly still be suitable for the front lower control arm in conjunction with the delrin front upper? would poly on the lower front give enough flex to stop binding or would it create squeeks in the front end or possibly excessive wear in other susp? parts?

Ironhead

Poly won't last long in the caster (rear) bushing.

sgarnett

iTrader: (1)

Delrin works fine in the front upper control arm bushings. You could also use poly for the front upper bushings.

The front lower camber bushing has to flex a little as the suspension moves. It also has to flex a little to allow caster to be adjusted. Poly does allow enough flex. Even though there is a lot of static load on the bushing with the car parked (unlike the rear LCA bushings), cold flow doesn't seem to be a problem. In other words, the bushing is large enough to minimize the load per square inch.

As Ironhead said, poly just doesn't work for the caster bushing. Unlike the camber bushing/bolt, the caster joint moves almost entirely by flexing the bushing instead of pivoting around the bolt. Energy Suspension and Prothane make very different designs, and neither works. They may look fine from the outside, but a teardown will reveal rapid wear and tear, which allows excessive caster slop. The stock rubber bushing is actually the best known solution unless you go to race-only spherical bushings. The true "1LE" bushing is not available either; the Moog replacement is identical to stock.

However, Strano did come up with a "trick" for making the stock rubber caster bushing work better. It still won't make the rubber last forever, but it will extend the life somewhat. If you are driving the car hard, caster bushings will need periodic replacement - end of story. Odds are high that you will find the stock bushing is torn too.

zz4camaro1980

Thank You!