What drag susp mod should I do next? I want better 60's
10-08-2007, 04:01 PM
#1
What drag susp mod should I do next? I want better 60's My current mods are BMR boxed lower LCA's, Subframe connectors, RR Airbag. The rest of the susp is 81k miles and stock. The front of the car is really heavy. Iron block and stock SS wheels. I'm planning on getting some skinnies for the future though. Car is Th400, trans braked and turbo with 2.75 gears. It weighs 3850lbs with me in it. I'm leaving on 5psi. Here is a quick vid of me launching to give you a visual of what the car does, this is a 1.58 60' and pulled the front drivers wheel about 1", airbag was empty. I'm usually not able to run on a track that is prepped like this though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaKNQu7kz7s
My best 60' on a prepped track is 1.57. I'm usually running on an unprepped track though and am only able to get high 1.7-1.8 60's. I'm running Hoosier Drag radials, 275/50/15's.
I'm trying to figure out if it would be worth while to pull 120lbs off the front end of the car (tubular everything) and relocate the battery to the trunk. Or to try and do some small suspension stuff such as a torque arm. Would LCA relocation brackets be worth while to try on a stock height car? I have access to a set for cheap to try out.
I think reducing the weight could yeild the greatest results and would cost about $1000 to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaKNQu7kz7s
My best 60' on a prepped track is 1.57. I'm usually running on an unprepped track though and am only able to get high 1.7-1.8 60's. I'm running Hoosier Drag radials, 275/50/15's.
I'm trying to figure out if it would be worth while to pull 120lbs off the front end of the car (tubular everything) and relocate the battery to the trunk. Or to try and do some small suspension stuff such as a torque arm. Would LCA relocation brackets be worth while to try on a stock height car? I have access to a set for cheap to try out.
I think reducing the weight could yeild the greatest results and would cost about $1000 to do.
Last edited by Zombie; 10-08-2007 at 04:09 PM.
10-09-2007, 08:12 PM
#3
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I watched the video and see a few things, one it really doesn't hit the tire very hard and the chassis reacts pretty slow and has body roll and 2.75 isn't much gear whether the car is boosted or not.
1.58 with a car that runs 132 mph is pretty bad, tuned right the car should run around 10.0's with at least a low 1.4's 60ft.
To start with I would get these items in this order.
Put the battery in the Right rear.
Next step would be an adjustable front shock like the QA1/HAL "R" series drag shock with a 300lb spring which should work with an iron block motor.
Ditch the air bag and get an anti roll bar, like one from www.wolferacecraft.com
Relocation brackets.
Adjustable rear shocks.
An adjustable torque arm that's "not" mounted to the transmission tail shaft, with a few front mounting locations to allow you to adjust the instant center and set pinion angle.
Front k-member and upper / lower control arms.
Solid motor mounts
Manual steering rack if you don't mind it will drop some weight and also you'll have more power. I dropped 0.2 off my ET on a stock motor not running the power steering and gained a few mph.
It comes down to do you want the car to leave better or run as fast as it can possible?
In the order I listed the things I think those things depending on your budget will net you the most gains now and in the long run.
Also the 2.75 gears are pretty low, my friend runs 3.08's in his turbo car but then again he runs 190mph in the 1/4. I think a little higher ratio would help.
Other things to consider is what is your stall speed, what size rim do you run and what psi are the tires at.
Get a log book and record everything from et to tire pressure to weather to chassis / shock settings and keep a log to track your changed when you try new things and only change one thing at a time.
This is just my opinion, hope some ideas help you out.
1.58 with a car that runs 132 mph is pretty bad, tuned right the car should run around 10.0's with at least a low 1.4's 60ft.
To start with I would get these items in this order.
Put the battery in the Right rear.
Next step would be an adjustable front shock like the QA1/HAL "R" series drag shock with a 300lb spring which should work with an iron block motor.
Ditch the air bag and get an anti roll bar, like one from www.wolferacecraft.com
Relocation brackets.
Adjustable rear shocks.
An adjustable torque arm that's "not" mounted to the transmission tail shaft, with a few front mounting locations to allow you to adjust the instant center and set pinion angle.
Front k-member and upper / lower control arms.
Solid motor mounts
Manual steering rack if you don't mind it will drop some weight and also you'll have more power. I dropped 0.2 off my ET on a stock motor not running the power steering and gained a few mph.
It comes down to do you want the car to leave better or run as fast as it can possible?
In the order I listed the things I think those things depending on your budget will net you the most gains now and in the long run.
Also the 2.75 gears are pretty low, my friend runs 3.08's in his turbo car but then again he runs 190mph in the 1/4. I think a little higher ratio would help.
Other things to consider is what is your stall speed, what size rim do you run and what psi are the tires at.
Get a log book and record everything from et to tire pressure to weather to chassis / shock settings and keep a log to track your changed when you try new things and only change one thing at a time.
This is just my opinion, hope some ideas help you out.
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10-12-2007, 09:06 PM
#9
I forgot to mention that this is a street car that gets driven every week. I will not lose features such as a/c and power steering. The 2.75 gears are staying as well, helps keep the gas milage decent around town and on the highway. They don't affect the 60' either since lack of traction is my issue. Going to 2.75s from 3.50s helped my 60's by a lot. I get traction on the immediate hit and then lose traction about 10 feet out because boost comes on so fast. I'm sticking with the short tire for now because I'm not ready to give up my ABS yet.
The 1.58 is slow compared to a lot of the people on here, but when I go to the track i'm usually the fastest car and have the best 60's unelss there are fast race cars there. I don't get to run on a prepped track very often. I normally 60' in the 1.6-1.8 range.
The 1.58 is slow compared to a lot of the people on here, but when I go to the track i'm usually the fastest car and have the best 60's unelss there are fast race cars there. I don't get to run on a prepped track very often. I normally 60' in the 1.6-1.8 range.
Last edited by Zombie; 10-13-2007 at 12:19 AM.
10-13-2007, 04:02 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
You guys mentioned putting the battery in the trunk. Is there a way you could rather show me the best way to do that or which kit is all around best without breakin the bank? Thanks!