slonomo

iTrader: (8)

Thinking about purchasing the Strano springs and sway bars for a 1" drop, less weight, and better handling. Since I worked so hard to finally get a decent 60', am I going to undo that?

I go to the track about 5-6 times a year and "race" on street tires so I'm far from hardcore, but still I would like to retain some respectable drag times.

I'm also thinking about doing the Texas Mile, would these help me out.

Sam or anybody else car to chime in.

One last question, do the springs come in any other color than white, I'd prefer black, hammertone, or red.

Thanks everybody.

JD_AMG

Talk to sam strano about it. You're going to want good shocks to damper the springs, otherwise the car is going to be bouncy and rough.
Check my sig. Out of the springs, shocks and swaybars (did each at a different time) the shocks by far made the biggest difference. Not only did my handling dramatically improve, but the feel, and ride did too.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

it depends on what you call decent for the 60' times. IIRC, there are people on Strano springs & Koni's that are getting 1.5/1.6 60' times, which (as a non-drag racer myself) i would consider "decent". you may suffer some at first, due to the different characteristics, but probably with a bit of practice, you can lower the times again.

as for the spring color, Sam only sells them in white....reason being, it is easy to tell his springs apart from any other spring by simply looking at them. you can certainly still paint them, or strip & re-powdercoat them, but i personally wouldn't bother. the only time you can see them is with the wheels off or if you're up under the car anyway.....no one will be able to see them while you're driving down the road, or even when you're parked.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Skip the springs and get QA1's, adjustable height, and you'll 60' better than you do now when you have them set properly. Be said and done for $700-800ish if you put em' in. Any way you slice it its more expensive than springs, but pretty close to springs and shocks and you'll end up worlds better.

ABeasst

iTrader: (5)

I currently have koni SAs on my car and I pulled 1.5x 60' times at the track on DRs and a 6-spd. I'll be doing strano springs in the spring and will fine tune the suspension to try and keep that 60'.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I don't use ultra stiff rear springs, and I don't slam the ride height, both of which help traction when compared to lower and/or stiffer rear springs. Actually, among lowering springs for these cars, you'll find that my rear rates are a bit to a whole lot softer than a number of other spring sets. We run a 150 rear rate which is not particularly stiff.

Lowering a car is never ideal for a drag situation because the lowering itself hurts weight transfer (which is one reason we lower for cornering, because it works the same way left and right as front to back). But if you are going to lower, then the springs that don't deck the height, and don't cost you rear travel or have twice as much spring rate as stock are going to let the weight transfer better.

You need to decide what's ultimately most important, handling and looks or the possibility of a .1 loss on 60's (which doesn't normally happen). Considering you are thinking of running the Texas Mile, and you drag race on street tires I think we have the answer already. And FWIW, I'd not recommend the QA1's. They are not very good dampers, and that's where the control of the car comes from. They are good "drag" shocks because what you want are shocks that don't offer a tremendous amount of control so the nose rises really fast. And as you can see from a previous poster who has Koni's, you can still cut good 60's with control dampers.

slonomo

iTrader: (8)

True, I'm not a regular drag racer, but I don't want to lose .2, .3 or more from a change and that seems to be what you are saying (and some others). Given my circumstance what would you recommend? I also understand that your springs and the hollow bars that you use also result in significant weight reduction (how much over stock?). Feel free to PM me if you like. I think this may be my next mod.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'm not saying that you'll lose .2-.3. Frankly, if you bolted some drag radials on there you'd improve your 60's quite a lot as you sit, but you havne't done that. I assume you've weighed the pro's and con's and decided to pass. And frankly the tires are what stick you to the ground, all the "right" suspension in the world on inferior tires won't hook well. And by the same token a handling setup on decent tires will hook very, very well.

You are looking for an answer nobody can give you. There are folks on my springs, and others with full Strano handling suspensions that cut 1.6's. There are folks with full drag suspensions that can't cut 1.9's to save their lives. If I were a betting man, I'd say you wouldn't loose anything on your 60's because you are on street tires, and street tires don't hook particularly hard and therefore don't transfer weight particularly hard.

The springs are 15-17 pounds less than other stock and other lowering springs. The bars are about 20 lbs. less than the same size bars in solid stock. You save about 6 pounds vs. GM front and rear bars (front bar is hollow), but you add significant roll stiffness. If you are worried about launching, I'd do springs before bars.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Why are you basing this decision on something you readily admit that you don't do much? If you don't spend any more time than you do drag racing, what would it matter? You'll spend the most time with your car enjoying driving it on the street, which is where Sam's stuff will shine the most. With a sticky enough tire, you'll still be able to 60' with no problems...as stated, his rear spring rates aren't really that stiff compared to what's out there.

You already know the answer to this question...I think you are just fishing for reasons to not spend the money.

slonomo

iTrader: (8)

I already put about $10k in my car on top of purchase price and finally got an 11.90 @ 119. I'd rather ask a few free questions about a potential set-up than dive in and find out I got the wrong stuff. I think most vendors would agree.

When I do go to the track, I'd rather it not be like most people's golf game where they come home all pissed off because they didn't do as well as they thought. Most golfers aren't even good amateurs let alone pros, but when they do go, they want to have a good time. Same here, I've worked hard toward this goal and I don't want to undue the time and money spent.

Lastly you should come to my house and talk the wife, I think she would disagree with you on the statement that I'm looking for a reason not to spend money. She'd think you would be talking about a different person.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I have around the same HP and torque as you and cut 1.91 for a 12.1@118 on drag radials leaving at 2K with Sam's setup. If you can drive (I prefer twisties to drag thus the 1.9) you'll be fine.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

sam can set you up with more setups then just his if you call him. he's not going to push his springs on you if it doesnt fit the bill. call and talk to him. he's going to recommend to you what he feels is the best setup given the information you tell him, not whats going to benefit him the most (when in reality it's your business he's benefiting from; as well as you benefiting; not just the sale of his springs..)

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well said SIK02SS. Business is business, parts are parts. I don't make a better living selling folks parts that are wrong than I do parts that are right for a job. Actually, in the end, I do better by telling folks the truth and setting them up accordingly because they'll be repeat customers when they want more parts. At least, that's the theory...

Here's the one catch. I need help to help you with parts. I can't just have folks call and say "I want my car to handle better" without some sort of detail, or willingness to answer questions so I can do my job. It'd be like going into a car dealer with a Toyota Corolla and telling the salesman you want "a more powerful car". Ok, but that's most cars not ranging from a mini-van to a diesel truck to a Corvette, all quite different.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

As Sam very well explained, the principles that make a very good handling car are often opposite what makes a car launch well at the drag strip. If you are going to do both activities, you just have to settle for middle ground. That's one of the impressive things about "supercars". They are cars that do everything very well and that's why they cost so much. Personally, when I build a car, I like it to do everything as well as possible but I understand that improvements in one area might hurt another.

The bottom line is what are your primary goals for the vehicle?

slonomo

iTrader: (8)

I want a $40k supercar, not one that costs $180k! Seriously, like in the powertrain and other areas of the car, there are a lot of performance enhancements to be realized in the other "systems" that weren't justified for the mass market.

My car is somewhat of a daily driver, Spring through Fall, and a sometime weekend racer. Probably like a lot of people I've been a little apprehensive about each mod I've started, but on the whole I've been happy with the end result. Looks like most people have been able to retain good launch characteristics with Strano springs while getting better handling. That's what I'm looking for.

Sam, I'll be following up with you in the near future on coming up with a shock, spring, bar package for my car. Also, are there any shops you car recommend in NW Ohio or SE Michigan that can install these in a first class manner? Thanks

Bow94z

iTrader: (3)

Do them yourself! it's not a hard job at all, plus tons of writeups out there aswell

Here i did the research for ya!

FRONT:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6

REAR:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=8

Sway Bars:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=22