Alignment specs for lowered vehicle
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alignment specs for lowered vehicle
I have made a thread in the past about this and recieved some input. but I dont like the specs I was given...
My very first time I was going to raod race, Strano gave me some alignment specs.. I remember 1/16" toe in, and a specific number camber and caster. I know that i was negative camber and positive caster.
I was very happy with the way the car felt.
........
Now when I was going to road race for the second time. I made a thread and I was told
0 toe, as much - camber as I can get and as much + caster I can get..
when I went to road race my car felt horrible, I know partially it was because of my Moser 12 bolt that was added on and torque arm and SFCs. which added weight caused my bad handling..in addition the alignment Im sure made it worse. the car didnt feel stable at all . Plu sI had steering wheel shimmy/vibration at sharp turns.
People told me, oh you want toe out, etc.. for road racing, but although I considered what they said, I thought to myself. maybe my car will perform differently, so they are probably wrong.
All I want from this thread is the proper alignment specs for a lowered car. so my handling will be great again..
by great: reduced body roll, reduced tire screech on turns, car feeling more stable at high turns, steering wheel vibration reduced at high turns. Just an overral smoother, better performing car in handling..
can anyone help me?
My very first time I was going to raod race, Strano gave me some alignment specs.. I remember 1/16" toe in, and a specific number camber and caster. I know that i was negative camber and positive caster.
I was very happy with the way the car felt.
........
Now when I was going to road race for the second time. I made a thread and I was told
0 toe, as much - camber as I can get and as much + caster I can get..
when I went to road race my car felt horrible, I know partially it was because of my Moser 12 bolt that was added on and torque arm and SFCs. which added weight caused my bad handling..in addition the alignment Im sure made it worse. the car didnt feel stable at all . Plu sI had steering wheel shimmy/vibration at sharp turns.
People told me, oh you want toe out, etc.. for road racing, but although I considered what they said, I thought to myself. maybe my car will perform differently, so they are probably wrong.
All I want from this thread is the proper alignment specs for a lowered car. so my handling will be great again..
by great: reduced body roll, reduced tire screech on turns, car feeling more stable at high turns, steering wheel vibration reduced at high turns. Just an overral smoother, better performing car in handling..
can anyone help me?
#2
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh and I read the sticky that has alignment specs, but my car doesnt have the same mods as him
I have Konis, strano springs, 35mm sway and 21mm rear. hotchkiss adjustable PHB, Spohn LCA, UMI TA, UMI 3 pt SFC, not welded. I may be missing something..
I have Konis, strano springs, 35mm sway and 21mm rear. hotchkiss adjustable PHB, Spohn LCA, UMI TA, UMI 3 pt SFC, not welded. I may be missing something..
#4
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
I said, and stand by 1/16" toe in for this fellow. He's tracking the car vs. autox, and we want a more stable front end than a darty one. He has toe-out now and clearly does not like it. I go from toe-out to toe-in if I'm going to a track, particularly a fast one. And the car is primarily a street car..
That said, the alignment can't help with all the weight you added that's unsprung in the rear.
Now, it's possible and often the case that you get a specific number, but the alignment rack is out of calibration (far too common I'm sorry to say). A vibration when you turn only is often a result of a person overturning the wheel, and you end up scrubbing the tires across the ground. I can't imagine any other reason you'd have no issues driving along, but this when you turn. The tires will also be screaming for mercy if this is what you are doing. You need to make sure that when the front stops biting, you don't add more steering input.
That said, the alignment can't help with all the weight you added that's unsprung in the rear.
Now, it's possible and often the case that you get a specific number, but the alignment rack is out of calibration (far too common I'm sorry to say). A vibration when you turn only is often a result of a person overturning the wheel, and you end up scrubbing the tires across the ground. I can't imagine any other reason you'd have no issues driving along, but this when you turn. The tires will also be screaming for mercy if this is what you are doing. You need to make sure that when the front stops biting, you don't add more steering input.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#5
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: orlando, fl
Posts: 4,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i agree with you, i'm a toe in person.
i run my own alignment shop and have aligned a handful of local autocross and sebring racing f-bodies.
also, if the caster is too high, the vibration you feel when turning could be the power steering unit vibrating from too much pressure needed to turn the wheel. when i did jim mueller's car, we tried 5.50* caster. it made the power steering unit growl.
i won't argue with you, because you've won more championships than i have ( i have none). i just know what i've set other people's cars to and get reports back on how they did.
i run my own alignment shop and have aligned a handful of local autocross and sebring racing f-bodies.
also, if the caster is too high, the vibration you feel when turning could be the power steering unit vibrating from too much pressure needed to turn the wheel. when i did jim mueller's car, we tried 5.50* caster. it made the power steering unit growl.
i won't argue with you, because you've won more championships than i have ( i have none). i just know what i've set other people's cars to and get reports back on how they did.
Last edited by mrr23; 01-18-2008 at 09:13 PM.
#6
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ill post you my alignment specs when I get home ( Im at work now)..
I think like you said I have too much caster and that could be an issue.
Also what sam said sounds about right also..
then again my front and rear tires arent matched up and my froints dont bits as well as my Nitto 555rs in the rear.
and I didnt have 40psi in the front like someone has recommended me before. I only had like 35.
Also I seincerly do believe I may need a new rack and pinion, even if its not the cause of my steering issues, its only and id prefer a newer beefier one.
I think like you said I have too much caster and that could be an issue.
Also what sam said sounds about right also..
then again my front and rear tires arent matched up and my froints dont bits as well as my Nitto 555rs in the rear.
and I didnt have 40psi in the front like someone has recommended me before. I only had like 35.
Also I seincerly do believe I may need a new rack and pinion, even if its not the cause of my steering issues, its only and id prefer a newer beefier one.