Panhard Bar
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Panhard Bar
My fiance wants to get me something for the TA for Christmas and the only thing that would fit our christmas spending amount would be for her to get me a panhard bar.
The question is..... I havent lowered the car yet and put new wheels on that I plan on doing in maybe a year. Should I have her order me a regular panhard bar or the adjustable panhard bar. Remember I am running on stock WS6 ride heighth. I am gradually upgrading the underside of the ta and thought this would be an easy inexpensive mod.
Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Mike
The question is..... I havent lowered the car yet and put new wheels on that I plan on doing in maybe a year. Should I have her order me a regular panhard bar or the adjustable panhard bar. Remember I am running on stock WS6 ride heighth. I am gradually upgrading the underside of the ta and thought this would be an easy inexpensive mod.
Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Mike
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Seems pretty clear to me that you'd want an adjustable one, unless of course you want to have to change it again later.
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Awesome, thanks for all the responses. I see that alot of you guys are liking UMI, are the BMR's good or should I just go UMI. What are the differences between the single and double??? Any deals for these from any of the sponsers??
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If you're interested in double adjustable click here> www.sjmmanufacturing.com/deals.html
#13
These suspension components are not complicated pieces. I sometimes wonder why there is so much discussion on a very basic piece. There is very little to alter regarding design considering one manufacture to the next. Probably the most noticable difference is what rod ends the company is using. Considering just about everyone is using QA1 high-ended teflon lined rod ends...little differences will be seen.
Our welding process is tig sequenced and pulsed. Materials are 4130 chromoly 1.25" OD tubing w/.095 wall using 4130 tube adapters and QA1 high-end XM series rod ends. I believe if you made a comparison, you'll find many companies are using the same materials we use.
Our kits differ from some manufactures setups as we INLCUDE upgraded 1/2" bolt kits on our suspension pieces. QA1 does not produce rod ends with metric measurements. Many companies are necking down their rod ends with a piece of aluminum tube with OD and ID measurements in English units. Then they are using a bronze or oil-lite bushing to further neck down the sizing which is also in English units. If you use a bushing that has a final measurement in English units and consider using a stock metric bolt, increased noise will be a result.
Our welding process is tig sequenced and pulsed. Materials are 4130 chromoly 1.25" OD tubing w/.095 wall using 4130 tube adapters and QA1 high-end XM series rod ends. I believe if you made a comparison, you'll find many companies are using the same materials we use.
Our kits differ from some manufactures setups as we INLCUDE upgraded 1/2" bolt kits on our suspension pieces. QA1 does not produce rod ends with metric measurements. Many companies are necking down their rod ends with a piece of aluminum tube with OD and ID measurements in English units. Then they are using a bronze or oil-lite bushing to further neck down the sizing which is also in English units. If you use a bushing that has a final measurement in English units and consider using a stock metric bolt, increased noise will be a result.
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These suspension components are not complicated pieces. I sometimes wonder why there is so much discussion on a very basic piece. There is very little to alter regarding design considering one manufacture to the next. Probably the most noticable difference is what rod ends the company is using. Considering just about everyone is using QA1 high-ended teflon lined rod ends...little differences will be seen.
Our welding process is tig sequenced and pulsed. Materials are 4130 chromoly 1.25" OD tubing w/.095 wall using 4130 tube adapters and QA1 high-end XM series rod ends. I believe if you made a comparison, you'll find many companies are using the same materials we use.
Our kits differ from some manufactures setups as we INLCUDE upgraded 1/2" bolt kits on our suspension pieces. QA1 does not produce rod ends with metric measurements. Many companies are necking down their rod ends with a piece of aluminum tube with OD and ID measurements in English units. Then they are using a bronze or oil-lite bushing to further neck down the sizing which is also in English units. If you use a bushing that has a final measurement in English units and consider using a stock metric bolt, increased noise will be a result.
Our welding process is tig sequenced and pulsed. Materials are 4130 chromoly 1.25" OD tubing w/.095 wall using 4130 tube adapters and QA1 high-end XM series rod ends. I believe if you made a comparison, you'll find many companies are using the same materials we use.
Our kits differ from some manufactures setups as we INLCUDE upgraded 1/2" bolt kits on our suspension pieces. QA1 does not produce rod ends with metric measurements. Many companies are necking down their rod ends with a piece of aluminum tube with OD and ID measurements in English units. Then they are using a bronze or oil-lite bushing to further neck down the sizing which is also in English units. If you use a bushing that has a final measurement in English units and consider using a stock metric bolt, increased noise will be a result.
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I have an adjustable poly/rod PHB on my car. I like it, but I think that if I get another, I'll make my own and go dual rod end with some really high end rod ends or do the same thing I have with my home-made LCAs. I have the QA1 XMs on my LCAs, but QA1 has sent them to China for manufacture and the quality isn't as reliable as it used to be. My LCAs have rod end on the axle and heavy duty rubber on the body to give a nicer rider but avoid binding associated with polyurathane.
I would say to get one that is adjustable on the car. The term 'double adjustable' is new to me as I've used Spohn pieces. As far as I know, all the adjustable pieces they offer adjust on the car. My PHB does.
I would say to get one that is adjustable on the car. The term 'double adjustable' is new to me as I've used Spohn pieces. As far as I know, all the adjustable pieces they offer adjust on the car. My PHB does.
#20
The reason people get a poly / rod combo is to reduce road noise and impact harshness by putting the poly end on the chassis mounting point. This works alot better with LCAs though and the PHB doesnt make much more noise with a rubber to rodend swap. The double rodend PHBs dont bind as much as the Poly ones and it allows for some more natural movement. The benifits outwigh the road noise IMO