installed bunch of umi parts: big thumbs up
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installed bunch of umi parts: big thumbs up
I bought a panhard bar,rear control arms,3 point sfc's and a front strut brace.
the install took about an hour from the time I drove up on the ramps till we put it on the ground. everything went so smooth......
it's a completely different car know. the rear end no longer feels like it's floating.
it'll still spin as I approach 4500k in 1st and still gets alittle sideways after ripping 2nd. but it's a much more controlled "slide". I couldn't be more happier with the umi products.
I was just reading about some issues with adjustable T/A's from umi and bmr.
anybody have a sphoon T/A with the drive shaft loop and the above umi products ? if so how was the install? once I finish the T/A then I'll do the longtubes. but I want to buy the best T/A that will let the longtubes go in with out a problem/ work with a 9", and have a drive shaft loop.
if I run into any problems like the thread recently posted I will just send it back. however I want to avoid that at all means and want everything to just "bolt-up" like the rest of the umi stuff I just bought.
any input would be great + or -
thanks
matt
the install took about an hour from the time I drove up on the ramps till we put it on the ground. everything went so smooth......
it's a completely different car know. the rear end no longer feels like it's floating.
it'll still spin as I approach 4500k in 1st and still gets alittle sideways after ripping 2nd. but it's a much more controlled "slide". I couldn't be more happier with the umi products.
I was just reading about some issues with adjustable T/A's from umi and bmr.
anybody have a sphoon T/A with the drive shaft loop and the above umi products ? if so how was the install? once I finish the T/A then I'll do the longtubes. but I want to buy the best T/A that will let the longtubes go in with out a problem/ work with a 9", and have a drive shaft loop.
if I run into any problems like the thread recently posted I will just send it back. however I want to avoid that at all means and want everything to just "bolt-up" like the rest of the umi stuff I just bought.
any input would be great + or -
thanks
matt
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as far as the weight I'm not really sure. I know that everything weighed like 75 lbs. shipped.
I decided to go with the 3 point sfc's for one reason, "triangles are tough". I learned that a long time ago when I started machining/welding. the added weight, maybe 7 -10 lbs. extra you add by having the sfc's triangluated was no big deal to me. I'll take strength over weight savings any day.
it's what 100lbs=.1 in the 1/4
so the added weight means I'll be .01 slower then if I had the normal sfc's on there. I can live with that, besides I figured once I get the chassis mounted T/A the whole under side of the car will be one big brace.
thats what I was thinking anyway.
I decided to go with the 3 point sfc's for one reason, "triangles are tough". I learned that a long time ago when I started machining/welding. the added weight, maybe 7 -10 lbs. extra you add by having the sfc's triangluated was no big deal to me. I'll take strength over weight savings any day.
it's what 100lbs=.1 in the 1/4
so the added weight means I'll be .01 slower then if I had the normal sfc's on there. I can live with that, besides I figured once I get the chassis mounted T/A the whole under side of the car will be one big brace.
thats what I was thinking anyway.
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I had a few issues...but i believe it was an isolated incident. Damn 9in went in without a problem..so something had to go wrong. After we bolted everything up I noticed the square tubing to the DS loop was hitting a balancer on my DS, So we shimmed it down out of the way and now the square tubing is laying on the y pipe, but im suspecting a crappy custom y pipe is the problem. as to why the drive shaft was hitting the DS loop bracket... dunno.
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congrats on the set-up, i opted for the 3point because it ties up the car from side to side...you can tell instantly how more rigid it is in turns, i freaking love them!!