kkslds

iTrader: (59)

So far my only suspension mods are weld in UMI SFC. Lookin to buy some strano springs and lower control arms and relocation brackets. I was just gonna get non-adjustable lca because I don't know how to adjust them. Never seen them in person. Are they easier to figure out than what I think or should I just go ahead and get non adjustables? Also was just gonna get bolt on relocation brackets. Any good? After that I plan on moving to the torque arm and panhardrod bar. Once again though I don't know how to adjust them. Will they hurt me more than help me not knowing how to properly adjust them? Thanks

87formy

Well, you need to get the Adjustable PHB, that's a given because your wheels will be thrown off center when you lower it. You get adjustable LCA's to make up for the factory tolerances. This way you can have it pointing foreword and centered in your wheel wells. Take it to a good alignment shop and have them do a 4 wheel alignment. They can center it for you.

The torque arm can give you some problems if you don't adjust it right. It's not to bad though. Just get the angle finder for it and follow a guide.

pwterz28

iTrader: (10)

why would i need a adjustable panhard bar just trying to figure what i need to do the job right

bryan04h

iTrader: (2)

well one because a non-adj panhard is useless...an adj helps set the alignment for the rear tires to reduce side stepping in turns

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

How about that most non-adjusts bind the rear in roll and I don't recommend them. And the fact the adjustables are very simple to adjust. Even if you don't do it, you get a better design for movement of the axle in roll.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

"I was just gonna get non-adjustable lca because I don't know how to adjust them. Never seen them in person. Are they easier to figure out than what I think or should I just go ahead and get non adjustables?"

Very easy to adjust. Imagine your rear end is not centered in the wheel well, like this: |\|

You merely adjust the length of the LCA so the rear end looks like this: |||

It's as simple as turning the rod end to adjust the length, then tightening the jam nut once the length is right.

radz282003

iTrader: (1)

I would definately say if you'ge going to spend the money, spend a little more and get the adjustable ones. I'm no tuner by any means, however, I have adjustable suspension parts and think it's very worthwhile. It can be a double-edged sword though. If you don't know what you're doing, you can do more harm than good until you do know. I'm learning more about the car all the time and like to tinker, so this is fine by me. If you don't want to worry about it, maybe just get the adjustable stuff, take it to a tuner, have them set it up, and don't worry about it.

Just my .02.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

All you are doing in adjusting the length of the arms. If the axle is a bit crooked in the car, which is common, you use the length to adjust that. And that's a number you get off an alignment rack. Or just set them to stock length and be happy this style doesn't bind (UMI's don't because of the rod-end, some adjustables still do because they don't use a rod-end).

kkslds

iTrader: (59)

So other than strength non adjustables are not worth it as far as improving traction. If I was to get adjustable lca what is the differences in double and single adjustable? Just more adjustability or is there another advantage? And correct me if i'm wrong but i'm takin it as though if I don't know how to set them up that an alignment shop should be able to do a 4 wheel alignment and based off of my intentions with the car they should be able to get it set up pretty close to what i'm looking for. And whats everyones thoughts on the [B]bolt on [B] relocation brackets? Will they do the trick or should weld on ones be used? Thanks for all the help. I want to get it right the first time and not waste money.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I did not say what you are thinking. What I said is summed up best like this: IF you are going to bother putting on alternate control arms for any reason, be it traction, the fact you want them, whatever, then those should be IMO adjustables. Can you put on non-adjusts? Yes. Will they help wheelhop if it's a control arm issue? Yes. But they also hurt the ride quality and at times the trustability of the rear of the car because they don't let the axle articulate as freely as it should. Think of an axle bolted right to the body vs. one that's allows to move a bit when you encounter a bump or pothole with just one wheel.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

AFA adjusting them, take the car to a shop and get a 4 wheel alignment. Specifically point out to the person that the LCAs are adjustable.
AFA the panhard bar, just use a string and a weight. Hang it from the same place on each side of the car and measure the distance to the same point on each wheel. You will be surprised how far off your car is. Mine was off 13/16". It is now perfectly centered.

kkslds

iTrader: (59)

Ok sorry for the missunderstanding. Thanks for the help. I think I have a pretty good idea on what i want to do.

pwterz28

iTrader: (10)

so when adjusting the panhard bar since the axle is going side to side will this also cause the driveshaft to shift a little

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Not enough to change anything. The thing with the panhard bar is to adjust it the first time, drive it around the block, and check it again. It took me three times to get it perfect. Either BMR or UMI has instructions on their web site, they just omit this one point.

Kurt

So when are double adjustable called for over single?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

When you need and will use full articulation on the rear; typically a car that sees a lot of road racing, heavy autox and doesn't mind the noise level associated with dual rod ends. Singles are good for street/occasional track as the noise level is acceptable as one end is usually poly or rubber, the other end being a rod end.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Well, Viper, I can't totally agree. What you are describing are rod/rod versus rod/poly. And I agree on that point, AFA the possibility of noise versus articulation.
Double adjustables are good when you need to make last minute adjustments because you make them on the car as it sits.
With a single adjustable, you have to pull a bolt and remove one end of the bar from the car to make the adjustment.
If you have a street car, chances are you adjust it the way you want it and you are done. For that, the single rod/poly is probably your best bet.
If you have an autocross/track car, you probably want rod/rod and they are usually double adjustable.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

" Double adjustables are good when you need to make last minute adjustments because you make them on the car as it sits."

Excellent point, thank you.

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

I'm looking at the on car adjustable PHR's. Edelbrock also offers one that I'm considering, which appears to be on car adjustable as well.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

If you can afford to, get double rod ended everything. Much nicer.