jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

All I've done to the rear suspension so far is a UMI Chassis Mounted Torque Arm. The car has over 200k original miles.

Shortly after I installed the TA (set to -1.5 degrees) I started getting a popping sound on accel and decel, and what feels like some slack in the rear. The popping sound has continued to get worse ever since.

Last night, I got under the car to have a look at things. The only things I could find wrong (with the suspension loaded) was:

1. The rear control arms felt loose, especially the driver's side CA.
2. The Panhard Bar felt slightly loose.
3. I was able to cause the popping sound once by pushing up on the TA.

So I torqued down all the TA bolts and drove it. And it felt much better, but still not right.

I'm sure the bushings all need replaced, but if I'm gonna do that, I may as well beef up the rear. I just put in a new motor with ~400 rwhp, and I've got NO traction now. Eventually, the car will be seeing about 450 rwhp and will be getting a Moser 9".

I'm thinking about BMR's billet aluminum LCAs (BMR # ACA002) and a Chromoly Adjustable Panhard Bar (BMR # MPHR002). At some point, I'll be lowering it about an inch, but it's at stock height for now.

Is there anything I'm missing? Are these good parts for my setup? Any other recommendations? How can I get better traction without using DRs or slicks (don't wanna break my 10 bolt just yet)?

I know almost nothing about suspension. I did try a search, but didn't really find anything, and I'm on my smartphone, so it's kinda difficult.

Thanks in advance for any help.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Anyone?

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I would get the BMR adj. lower control ARMs. And some coil over shocks.

TRZ Motorsports

If you're looking for chrome-moly adjustable LCA's, we can help you. An adjustable panhard bar will be a must when you lower it. We offer a double adj. panhard bar and anti-roll bar as a kit that is light weight. Let me know if you have any questions.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Unless there is some significant benefit to having adjustable LCAs, I wanted to stay with non-adjustable to simplify things. BMR was the only Billet aluminum LCAs I could find, and I'm assuming those are the lightest.

I want the lightest weight components I can get. I'm not going to be running enough power to be horribly destructive.

I'd also like to stay away from spherical rod ends and stick with bushings all around, this is a DD, not a race car. It'd be more likely to see a road course than a drag strip, also.

418redz28

iTrader: (10)

if u can adjust it u can move stuff around and see what it likes the best... the poping may be caused bc of the u joints. one of my friends had the same thing i belive and he replaced them and im pretty sure that it fixed it. as for if u dont want to go the solid mount way on ur suspension go with polly its alot better

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I thought it might be the U-joints, too. Especially with so many miles. But they didn't have any excessive play.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

ive got the umi panhard bar and lca's they are awesome and fit perfectly, and i actually felt a difference and are about 130 bucks and shipping for both

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

Most people here do not like aluminum LCA's. Most people like the chrome moly for weight savings. Remember you do not want POLY/POLY rod ends for handling. Get the poly/rod.

A good set of shocks is always a good direction. 200k miles do you have stock shocks?

Good luck.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Yep, still on the stock shocks. I'm waiting until I can afford a set of SLP Bilstiens/Hotchkis Springs.

So, the chromoly LCAs are lighter than the billet aluminum?

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

Chrome Moly is the **** man that stuff is strong and very very very light. It is the carbon fiber of steel.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

its roughly 2/3 the weight, not because the material is light, its just much stronger so they can use a thinner wall

TRZ Motorsports

Moly is stronger and lighter, yes. Also, we use one end of the control arm in a delrin which is a hard plastic thats stronger than poly but still not 100% solid. The other end of the control arm is a teflon-lined rod end which is fine for street use... it doesn't make the noise that a regular rod end makes.

Adjustable is good so you can center the rear wheels in a front - back perspective. Then get an adj. phb to center the rear in a side - side perspective. Both those are usually off center, even straight from the factory.

cptncdy

iTrader: (6)

check out Pavlock Performance they are a sponsor--->>

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

Moly is the same density more or less as every other steel. Its added strength allows less of it to be used.