Nightrydass

I have this posed on NJFBOA.org also, as im really confused (even AFTER reading the sticky and some other posts...now im MORE confused )


Well; I decided that my next upgrade will involve me suspension and lower the car. I want to do this ONE TIME and RIGHT; lol, so i need advice.

The car will be used for the "twisty's"; bare, curvy backroads. The car might see some 1/4 mile action but not much and not often. If i can find a AutoX track then maybe some recreational usage, nothing competition based. This is moslty a cruzer, show car. My SS isn't my DD, but i want it to be a "functional car".

LCA's: decided on single adj rod end UMI. Chassis connection is Poly

Panhard bar: Again i need an adjustable one and i was again thinking BMR or UMI. Single adj / dbl adj?? Rod ends???

SFC's: 2 point or 3 point? difference's, pro's con's for my application??? Weld-in or Bolt-in, differences in application (besides weld-in being stonger).

Springs: The big question; how low should i go? I can get a set of hotchkis springs pretty cheap. I was looking @ a 1.5" drop in front & 1.3" in rear. However; i do want headers soon, and i don't want my butthole to pucker up to the size of a pin head whenever i go over a bump. I know that QTP and KOOKS say they have no clearance issues but i would like 1st hand opinion. Other then that; they have a 1.2" front and rear drop springs i might go with if u guys think it is too low. also, what lbs spring rate???

Shock Re-valving: What is the deal with this? It is required? I know the shock bound and rebound should be set with the spring rate but does anyone have first hand experience with have them re-valved? like does it really make a difference or is it necessary for my application? Also, who does them and how much $$$? The shocks I have are the same ones that come in the SLP shock and spring package. See link below, a package is better i assume from what i have read, agree/disagree???

I want tp buy parts once and be done with it. I want to advoid the expense and headach of experimenting with parts and 'ish.

any help is greatly appreciated! And any more info that you need from me i would be more then happy to provide to the best of my abilities! I havr time before i buy, i just want to "buy right"...


It seems that ppl are favoring the Strano/Koni parts (http://umiperformance.com/fbr002). This might be easier then to try and shop ala'cart. ugh, i dunno... thank you again as I'm sure this question has been asked a bizzilion times...

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

Thank you for your one millonth post on springs lol.

Seriously.
The rod/poly LCA's are great.
Always get double lca panhard bar, UMI is great.
Konis 4/4
Strano springs and he runs kooks I belive on his car.
subframes you can wait. Wait till springs/shocks to see what a new car you will have.

This is proven and good advice for a good all around car. Happy hunting.

Nightrydass

sorry, the more i read that sticky and the more i read other posts, the more questions i had. lol.

any one else have input???!!!

RareBreed0295

iTrader: (35)

Sam Strano is the man..Pm him

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

talk to sam stano because everyone has something different for what they do. sam will help you with the perfect setup for your car and what your looking to do with your car. also estimate the power you want to have because they will play a factor in the suspension parts aswell

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

Sam is the mine pretty much all I know is from him and reading tons and tons on here.

First I would design your goals. If drag race only you dont' want certain things. If you autocross you have to watch out for your class. It sounds like to me you want a mean handling street machine you drive a lot.

By reading your goal is a good handling car and on occasion go to the track either 1/4 mile or autocross.

Its easier to change 1 or 2 parts at a time to see how it effects the car.

On these cars it does START with shocks. KONIS is the only real cost effect option since the blistein are on backorder. I think sam has a couple of sets left with the old pricing. There going on this year once his old stock is sold.

Do you really want to lower the car? Do you think you need to to increase handling?

KONIS 4/4: I would get them first.

Springs: I like the strano springs. If your going with springs my as well do them with shocks and the konis are great. Remember you need a shock that can handle a spring. No other cheaper shock does a good job with aftermarkert springs that I have seen.

LCA's: If your having wheel hop I would start with these. If not I would wait and see how much you enjoy the car with allthe toher mods.

Sway bars: get sams hollow bars, there great and will make these cars handle much better. A+ get these.

Panhard: I feel like this is one of the best seat of pants difference. Go with a double rod end. It willmake the live axle on bumpy roads so so so much better.

subframes: I would wait, when you get the shocks and other componets these cars are quite firm if its an hardtop or even a t-top can be ok. shocks are most of the time the KEY.

I hope this more detailed answer helps. I feel like if you get them items you will think you havea new car. IF you still have an issue wheel hop etc. We can always get LCA' or tq arm etc. But with the shocks,bars,panhard bar I think you will SEE A BIG DIFFERENCE!

Good luck!

ChaseSS

iTrader: (17)

if you want a set of koni's I have new set that I have to get rid of pm me if interested

94T/A5.7LT1

iTrader: (1)

I since you want everything at once go with this package http://www.umiperformance.com/fbr002...=0&fq=0&manf=7 you cant also get that same package from stranoparts.com both sponsors of the site. its pretty much everything you need right there, costly but your saving money by buying it in a package. Right now i only have konis but i ordered the springs and PHB, im going to say its money well spent.

Nightrydass

I bought the bilsteins last yr b/c the orig shocks i had were shot to hell. But like i said, i want to do this right. I didn't realize how easily it was to mess up the suspension when you change things and make it handle worse (as simple as choosing the wrong size sway bar) if you buy ala'cart and the parts don't "match". I might just buy the kit from UMI with the Koni's b/c that is what EVERYONE is sayin is the best; even if that means i have to wait another yr to buy it Id rather pay $1500 once then go 2 yrs with headachs, never being happy, and spending twice as much buying parts ala'cart and never getting it right, or messing it up so bad i lose control of the car and hit a tree.

ChaseSS - thankx for the offer, but i will prob just buy the Kit.

What about TRQ arm, do i need an adj one or can i do non adj? and should i do full size or shorty? I heard that shorty arms on a street car can case rear wheel hop during breaking, is this true? or should i keep the stock arm and just get the trans mount. remeber this is just a "street machine"

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

How much do u want to spend? What is more important lowering or handling? Do you want to adjust the ride once it is set up?

Use poly, rod end with panhard bar. A good torque arm should be on ur list. I like the UMI or Spohn stuff.

As far as springs the only one you can pick the rates are the ground control set-up. I love mine. If you dont go that way use sams spings.

Nightrydass

*my additions are in blue*

JD_AMG

You do not need an aftermarket torque arm, LCA's, or relocation brackets. If you do not want to wait a year to buy, then just buy the strano springs and konis, then save up for a PHB and whatever else you want. ^this would be the harder stuff to install, the swaybars are cake and don't take long at all.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

What this guy says.

Aftermarket torque arm and LCA's even relocation brackets are not necessarily needed for a great canyon runner.
Shocks are THE most important component for a great handling f-body.
If you are going to lower your car, obviously with aftermarket springs(Strano springs) then you will need an adjustable panhard rod to re-center your rear axle. The PHR will also enhance the handling and feel of your rear end. Buy rod ended PHR's the increase in road noise is insignificant.

You will hear others bark that the double rod ended PHR does make a lot more noise, usually that's because they ALSO have rod-ended LCA's and THEY are the ones that make a lot of noise.

For a Daily Driver, you do not NEED to replace the LCA's. You can keep them and your car will still handle just fine. As stated earler, if your are encountering a lot of wheel hop right now, then the LCA's will definitely help there.

Don't know what wheel hop is? Then don't worry about replacing the LCA's hahaha!!! If you ever experience wheel hop when accelerating hard, then you know how it feels, this does not equate to good 60' times, the aftermarket LCA's will eliminate that, NOT necessary for a great handler though.

aftermarket swaybars assist in reduced body roll, keeps the car from tilting WAAAY better than the factory swaybars. Factory suspension causes the car to understeer a lot, it's a safer way to drive, but not ideal for a responsive canyon carver, you want more neutral feel, so bigger swaybars will DRASTICALLY reduce body roll, make your car feel more like a slot car, the adjustable PHR will make the rear end a bit more "lively", which will reduce the understeer, makes the turning more neutral.

35mm front and 22mm rear is ideal, Sam Strano has his swaybars these sizes, they're hollow, so they're light. Factory SS for 98-02 swaybars are 31mm fronts 19mm rears. You can get 32mm fronts 21mm rears, other companies have 35mm fronts 25mm rears, this setup is VERY lively for the rear end, not conducive to smooth exits out of corners(read "fishtail.").


I like the 35mm front setup, as our cars are nose heavy, it just feels better to me.

Koni Single Adjustables are the BEST street shock you can buy if you want a GREAT canyon carver.

Revalved Bilstein's are a VERY attractive alternative, but they're not available, as Bilstein has them in back order.

what to buy first?

1. shocks-Koni SA's or revalved Bilsteins.
2. springs-only if you want to lower your car-Strano springs.
3. PHR-adjustable PHR if you do option #2--double rod ended.
4. 35mm front 22mm rear swaybars.

Actually you do the above 4 you'll be fuggin THRILLED with your car!!!

OH! Good tires and good brake pads, also steel braided brake lines and get rid of those freaking factory rotors, they're garbage!!!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It seems that you are trying to build based on what you read. That gives you ideas, but is NOT a good way to actually decide on what to buy.

You'll notice a number of folks have said to call me, and that's because I'll talk to you about what you know, want, what the car does, and how to improve it. I sell UMI parts, and they sell some of mine. We do slightly different kits because of our niches, but I can package anything we need together. I don't think LCA brackets are "must have", I don't have them on my car, which is lowered, and I don't have wheelhop.

Parts are medicene, used for curing what's wrong. If something is not an issue, why prescribe items to fix it?

bryan04h

iTrader: (2)

that is profound

Nightrydass

Wow; i dunno what to say, thank you. Thank you all for your time to explain this to me in such detail and give me all ur inputs/advice/experience. I understand what i need now, and i will DEF be intouch w/ you Sam when I'm ready.

Nightrydass

You know how it goes; you ask someone something and they say u need this and you need that. Kinda like the guy that goes into Best Buy for just a plain TV and walks out with High Def LCD, $600 in wires and a XBOX 360. He didn't kno so he took someone else's word.

I didn't know either, i just go by what i read (a boy do i read). That is why i reply on Forums like these and knowlegable ppl like urselves that have no monitary gain with whatever my decision is.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I understand... the web can be both good and bad for things like solid advice. What I tend to tell folks is to take everything with a big grain of salt. Details matter and if the "advice" you get amounts to "do this, it rocks" that's not what I want. The better the explanation, the better the homework behind it. You'll often find more specific things from folks I deal with becaue I tend to be more specific when talking to them, and I think that kind of trickles down.

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

That's a quintessentially supurb archetypal amalgamation.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

also magnanimous, existential, and a little esoteric