needadvice

Hi,

I know that inceased swept area makes for a better braking car as far as pure stopping goes.

But my car is a street car only and will always be on some kind of radial, so my tires are my weak link in the stopping department. I can put on the best and biggest Brembos and I'll still be able to lock the tires just like my factory brakes will do if I stand on them.

But I would really like to put some kind of brake kit on, even if the swept area is the same as stock.........that will not experience FADE!!!

What's available for eliminating brake fade without changing swept area?

If I have to go with a bigger brake kit, whats a good one? I'd like cross-drilled and slotted for front and back.

Thanks.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Please read the sticky at the top of the Suspension & Brakes section.

Thanks
Andy

needadvice

Wow, good info up there.

Its easy to just buy a set of $5,000 brakes, I'm curious if there's a front and rear kit from a company that has the same swept area as stock, that eliminates the brake fade our factory rotors/brakes experience.

I'd like to NOT spend $5,000. Its just a street car. But a street car that will be doing high speed roll runs. Just want to be able to stop from a medium/high speed fast if I need to, and not lose my braking because of fade.

VIP1

I think you missed this sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
(scroll down to the part that pertains to your question)

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Swept area has nothing to do with fade or stopping power. Start with real pads (not from the parts store).

robertbartsch

Hawk pads from Samie Strano would be a good start ---->

BlackBADaSS02

iTrader: (17)

Hawk pads, steel braided brake lines, and brembo blank rotors is a nice upgrade over stock without spending $5,000.

robertbartsch

Get non-slotted, non-drilled rotors for maximum performance; Brembo would be a good choice.

You could also just "turn" your existing rotors at a parts store to true them up before adding new Hawk pads.

The SS lines are nice, but the performance advantage is questionable. If your brake fluid is old, however, bleeding all fours with new fliud will have a better result than swapping in SS lines, IMO.

If you want to upgrade to C5 brakes you can do this for 600-700 clams -->

Why are you fading; worn pads, worn rotors, bad fluid, all of the above?

My ride is a DD and I upgraded to C5. My old brakes never faded on the street so the upgrade provided me only a tad more stoppping power (1 inch increase in rotor size).

Apparently, if you road race, the factory brakes tend to fade and, therfore, an upgrade is more useful.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

Strano brake upgrade kit

should be everything you need...

needadvice

They don't fade at all, they work great. Baer Eradispeed rotors all around with factory GM pads.

But I was on the highway doing about 70mph about 30 car lengths behind a dump truck. Out of nowhere the dumptruck started to lose its rear end to the right and it started fish tailing side to side across 3 lanes. I leaned hard on my brakes and as I approached the dumptruck after braking for about 100 feet or so it started to feel like the braking action steadied out and no matter how hard I pushed it just kept slowing down at the same rate. I had to go partially off the road to the right shoulder to pass the now stopped dumptruck. "I think that I experienced brake fade." Or whatever you call it when braking is nice, strong and good....and then it just mellows out and doesn't keep adding brake force.

I just would liek to never have that happene again. Highway roll runs are all I really do and I do it when no cars are around, but I'd like to have solid braking until I am stopped if I ever need it again. Not just hope the car comes to a stop in the room I have left.

Arctic2002ss

Start with good pads and high temp fluid. I am running Powerslot rotors, ceramic pads, and DOT3/4 fluid. High speed braking was rather scary until I switched to the ceramic pads. I have done several HPDEs and can now do repeated hard stops from triple-digit speeds with no fade.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

So let me understand this..... A dumptruck was able to outbrake you at 70mph? Are you serious?

When was the last time you swapped your brake fluid? I'd start there and see what that gets you.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

i got the same problem. i have strano upgrade kit. and everything is only 4 months old.

im getting baer big brake kit 6 pistons in the front and trying to find something for the back. most brake kits have no brake fade.

robertbartsch

Question:

Were you hitting the brakes soo hard that the ABS was kicking on?

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

i would say right before abs would kick in y?

robertbartsch

Well, when my ABS goes on you can here a distint "brrrrrr" noise so you usually know it. This seems consistent with every ABS car I have owned or driven.

One BMW I own has ABS that works in reverse, down an icy hill - cool!

I've owned a few F-bodies and Vettes and have found them to have adequate stopping power for street cars.

Therefore, your brakes may be shot. This might include, bad fluid, worn rotors, worn pads, leaking calipers, etc.

If your brakes are worn you have two options:
1. Replace worn factory parts including replacement with good pads like Hawks
2. Upgrade your brakes to C5 or other manf. --->

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

not to tread jack anyone but i posted that everything is 4 months old and i have strano upgrade brakes including hawk plus pads front and rear, ss lines, superblue fluid, brembo rotors front and rear.
they stop really well from 80-0 but from 110+ they suck and take forever to stop. and i notice alot of brake fade.

robertbartsch

Yeh, that is weird.

One thing I did notice with me C5 upgrade that included Hawks and Brembos.

I followed the break-in procedure on the Hawk pads exactly. However, I notice as time goes on, the brakes seem to keep improving.

I attribute this to a lengthy break-in period but I could be wrong.

How many miles have you gone in 4 months of time?

I have about 800 miles, so far.

Disturbed Bird

iTrader: (9)

maybe a 1,000. i did test this out with 500 miles on it. im pretty sure its just the front ls1 calipers. they are in shitty condition.

robertbartsch

I would say that usually calipers either work or they do not work. In other words, they tend not to loose their original performance over time. If they leak the seals are shot and they need replacement; right?